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16-04-2008, 13:40
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#46
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 235
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Jedwards,
Where can I get a spec sheet for the SC-JS04 (cooling unit only)?
I am interested in not only the power draw. The size is important. Can I just sit it on top of my box (bolted to it)? How far does it go into the box?
It looks like the Coleman size unit would require me to cut a batch of teak out to fit in.
Greg
__________________
Greg & Jill Delezynski
Cruising aboard Guenevere
Home Page: www.svguenevere.com
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16-04-2008, 13:50
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#47
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 24
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JSO04/JS05 dimensions/specs
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16-04-2008, 14:22
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#48
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 235
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Jedwards,
Thanks for the specs. It looks like the SC-JS05 is to large for me to fit into our boat. To bad! It looked like a good idea. On a larger boat, that would work great.
I am not clear on one point. You said that the units ramp down to a lower power usage as the temp in the box reaches a set point. I think you stated it was as low as 8 watts. Does it shut down completely to 0.0 watts? Or is there a constant (very low) draw?
Greg
__________________
Greg & Jill Delezynski
Cruising aboard Guenevere
Home Page: www.svguenevere.com
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16-04-2008, 14:38
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#49
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 24
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Power IV
The cooler will ramp down to match heat leak into the cooled space. If you have zero heat leak (nigh impossible) the cooler can ramp to zero power. if the internal temperature is below the set point ('cause it's cooold out there!) then the unit will essentially turn off with the exception of the monitoring electronics (You don't want it to get to warm do you?). this is common when using the SC-DF25 as a refrigerator in room temperature type ambients because the heat leak is so low that the internal temperature can overshoot a little and the cooler will essentially shut off (sort of like a compressor will) until the temperature rises up above the set point and then it will start to ramp back up to match the new load. It will usually settle at some low power level but a times (like in my office keeping my lunch cold) the unit will be off for about 45 minutes and then ramp up for 5 minutes then shut back off (aint VIP's awsome!) but I hesitate to quote a number because it will vary widely depending on insulation, ambient temperature and set point. At a minimum, the electronics consume about a watt.
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18-04-2008, 04:46
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#50
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Fremantle Australia
Boat: Schioning 12.3 "Wilderness" Bi-Rig under construction
Posts: 550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedwards
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Sounds fantastic, a much better solution than compressors, put me down for two if I can figure out how to utilise them.
I think most boaties would need to incorporate it into existing ice boxes.
My intended box has 6" insulation on the walls. 8" on the bottom and 4" for the top loading lid. It will be 150 liters and to be used as a freezer in the tropics.
Fridge will also, probably, be a custom unit of about 120 liters with about 4" insulation all over.
What model pump would you suggest and I have not yet found info on how to incorporate it into the box, could you please point me to it.
Mike
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18-04-2008, 06:29
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#51
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 24
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Tropical Freezer
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18-04-2008, 06:55
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#52
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Fremantle Australia
Boat: Schioning 12.3 "Wilderness" Bi-Rig under construction
Posts: 550
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Looks interesting but is there more info on it, like where does the cold come out. It looks like it would sit on top with the outlet on the bottom, is this correct. Top mounting would not be my first choice. How hard would it be to use a basic pump and fit up a heat exchange unit through an existing evap coil or direct transfer to an ally or S/S interior liner.
Are they available?
Rough estimate of the cost? (Mods - Am I allowed to ask this question outside the commercial vendor section)
EDIT OOPS just saw it in your price list
Mike
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18-04-2008, 07:28
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#53
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 24
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SC-JS05
air is drawn in and returned from the bottom surface in the images shown but the unit can be mounted in any orientation. If you side mount you will want the intake side to be on the high side. if you bottom mount you will have issues with warmer temperatures on the top than the bottom (and you might loose some food ;-)
Being able to use the existing lines and evaporator assembly is unlikely. However, it is certainly possible to use a thermosiphon and remote mount a module assembly (SC-UA04) but requires a fair portion of thermo and fluiddynamic engineering for stable operation at variable attitudes. You could also engineer a custom heat pipe solution with a little less effort but the cost may be prohibitive.
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18-04-2008, 08:46
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#54
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pacific NorthWest
Boat: Sold - Landlocked
Posts: 604
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A wealth of information here. Like I said, I will be buying one in the next few months.
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18-04-2008, 13:07
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#55
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 120
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We bought an Engel 35 2 years ago, to use as occasional freezer and especially, to keep ice cream.
The spec says "refrigerate or freeze to below 0 degree F"
At the first try, it could not keep ice cream hard. Since then, we have only used it as backup when the frigoboat needed servicing, or to store stuff at room temp.
The other day, we decided to give it another try as we were craving ice cream: it took it 14 hours running non stop on 110V to barely freeze 6 liters of water.
I now think it was defective from day one. Unfortunately, the warranty expired a month ago and we are presently in NZ, while we bought it in US.
Does anyone have an idea if these units can be serviced? Could it be it just needed gaz?
__________________
claire
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18-04-2008, 20:11
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#56
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Fremantle Australia
Boat: Schioning 12.3 "Wilderness" Bi-Rig under construction
Posts: 550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedwards
air is drawn in and returned from the bottom surface in the images shown but the unit can be mounted in any orientation. If you side mount you will want the intake side to be on the high side. if you bottom mount you will have issues with warmer temperatures on the top than the bottom (and you might loose some food ;-)
Being able to use the existing lines and evaporator assembly is unlikely. However, it is certainly possible to use a thermosiphon and remote mount a module assembly (SC-UA04) but requires a fair portion of thermo and fluiddynamic engineering for stable operation at variable attitudes. You could also engineer a custom heat pipe solution with a little less effort but the cost may be prohibitive.
There is price list posted in this thread and additional details can be found on our website ( Welcome to Global Cooling - Featuring Stirling Free Piston Stirling Coolers)
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I was actually thinking of a pumped fluid loop utilising a traditional evap inside the compartment.
I assume the SC-JS05 has a finned heatsink on the cold end with a fan to circulate the air via an inlet grill and return through another.
Mike
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19-04-2008, 15:56
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#57
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: everett wa
Boat: islander 29
Posts: 8
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.. well you sold me Jedwards!
i just ordered up a Coleman Stirling, at present i have no icebox let alone refrigeration so it is going to be a welcome addition.
i take it that the 12 degree angle restriction is lengthwise of the Coleman/SC-C925 ? i believe that is so, so i am going to just store it lengthwise with the boat. what is the definition of 'continuous' ?
thanks for all you input and info
randall
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21-04-2008, 06:27
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#58
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 24
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Heat Exchnage/Tilt spec
As to Pumped Loop,
There is a small possibility that your evaporator is sized appropriately for a pumped loop but it is unlikely. Refrigerator evaporators are sized for 2-phase heat transfer and are therefore not appropriate for single phase transport. You will most likely have to increase the size of your evaporator by several times in order to remove enough heat. In order to make this determination you will need to know the physical dimensions of your tubing, the number and size of fins attached to the tubing, your proposed flow rate (a function of your pump) and the thermal properties of your proposed heat transport fluid. It would be much simpler to use forced air.
As to the Coleman Freezer,
"Continuous" refers constant operation at a fixed orientation. The Coleman Coolbox/SC-C925 can be run for some time beyond the specification (until the flow of refrigerant stops, continues to be cooled by the FPSC and freezes blocking the tubing) without harm but this is strongly dependent on the internal temperature, temperature setting and the external ambient. Even if the CO2 freezes it simply needs to defrost and normal operation will resume. While the generic 12 deg limit is expressed for all orientations, in truth this only applies to two. Specifically, control side down/cooled compartment high and Control side rotated counter-clockwise (as you look at it). Other orientations are much less sensitive to attitude, specifically, Control side up cooled chamber down. Hope this helps.
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21-04-2008, 06:52
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#59
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: everett wa
Boat: islander 29
Posts: 8
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Thanks that helps quite a bit Jedwards..
i was hoping for a more definitive definition for 'continuous' (i.e. more then 2 minutes within a 3 minute period), but i understand now that, without taking into account ambient and inside temperature, and cooling setting, it would be impossible to guess at.
it is good to know that if the gas does freeze, it doesn't toast (argggh sorry) the unit. that makes me feel much more comfortable.
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23-04-2008, 09:55
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#60
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: everett wa
Boat: islander 29
Posts: 8
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well the one place i found online that had this (coleman) in stock .. didn't.. so i am not trying to chase it down anymore..
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