Why is Rear Tube Splitting on Formosa 41?

[Schooner Chandlery]

Originally Posted by zeehag

ours pass thru concrete in stern. that concrete needs to be drilled out then new tube installed and re packed into place or modified appropriately....was estimated in kohlers in sd at 8000 usd to begin the work. is why i have yet to do this. cf estimated below knight and carver and shelter island boat yard. is a LOT of work for one lil tube....that is why folks have been sliding pvc into the existing shaft tube and considering othe rsimilar mods. this is the only design flaw in boat, and i believe is not a design flaw but a mfg glitch.

Hum. I get it but think the cost is way overstated. CF doesnt exactly run a low priced shop there. He's probably quoting one of his top dollar guys doing what is really grunt work that should be at a manual labor rate for the bulk of it.

My husband reminds me that most folks thought our stern tube was going to take way more time to extract than it did. So we were fortunate and/or more efficient than most folks.

I suppose a 12" sawsall blade from each end cutting the pipe to remove by section still leaves you with 12" in the middle to find a way to deal with. Sounds like painful grunt work if not cleverly executed. I've seen a boring jig that could make short work of the project and would think CF would know how to make one. Maybe not.


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[zeehag]

he hjad a concrete drilling/boring tool that made short work i-of it, but.. then there is the rrpacement of all parts-- cf n i had a special ha ha ha deal rate going--known each other long time. 1995-2011. so i go t 4 percent off with 10 percent added whereas others got 20 percent added to the 3 percent off.. ha ha ha ha
he made some convoluted aint gonna lose on this deal deals, as he estimated we discussed the work and hours involved and all that. his estimate was a good 4000 under knight and carver and driscolls and shelter island.. yeah i went everywhere.(except sobay boat yard asi didnt wanna die..they had a bad rep then)

[Schooner Chandlery]

Originally Posted by zeehag

he hjad a concrete drilling/boring tool that made short work i-of it, but.. then there is the rrpacement of all parts-- cf n i had a special ha ha ha deal rate going--known each other long time. 1995-2011. so i go t 4 percent off with 10 percent added whereas others got 20 percent added to the 3 percent off.. ha ha ha ha
he made some convoluted aint gonna lose on this deal deals, as he estimated we discussed the work and hours involved and all that. his estimate was a good 4000 under knight and carver and driscolls and shelter island.. yeah i went everywhere.(except sobay boat yard asi didnt wanna die..they had a bad rep then)

Thank goodness you're no longer in that place. If stuck doing it in San Diego you could DIY at Driscoll Mission Bay. CF also allows DIY but mostly wood boats and only when his people are busy with other things or he is desperate because his yard is empty and lay days money is better than no money.

That town's boat maintenance is unfortunately tightly controlled and prices hiked by their little oligopoly of yards and a greedy port. Sad.


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[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by zeehag

...this is the only design flaw in boat...

Pretty funny stuff.

OP--your stern tube is wasted and needs to be replaced, not lined with PVC.

[zeehag]

my stern tube is still fine and we designing a replacement system as this is a fail on all these boats. seems to be a formosa thing--ct, seawolf, yada yada
what has been done on others is a liner inside the original tube with modified packing gland and cutlass, which is inside a shaft log outside hull.

my boat is half wood--hull is solid fg, the rest is a hybrid, mostly wood.

cf allowed me my own space and use of my own guys--with my small boat we used a trailer, and craned her out onto that-- cradles are $10,000usd.. whooot..he actually worked with me on saving dough. he knew i could spread word faster than his fone system and i helped business at that time. worked out well. when i was working i was a valued asset, as i had doctor friends with bigg bux, and cfś business was slagging

but thank my good senses i am not there, but here...

[mashenden]

My daughter and son-in-law have a Island Trader 41 built in '77 - They are currently docked in the Florida Keys (Marathon). The shaft tube is in need of replacing.

The current plan is to remove it in a similar fashion as noted in this post. Then replace it with a "standard" tube, meaning something that is available in Bronze or SS but probably not as long. Would also like to add a carrier bearing to support the shaft where the current stuffing box is located, since a shorter replacement is envisioned as more readily available.

Does anyone have any suggested sources for a replacement tube, either in that area (Keys or Miami) or internet?

We are not at the boat at this time and have not yet measured things - any known measurements would be appreciated (shaft dia, tube inside dia, tub outside dia).

[zeehag]

Originally Posted by mashenden

My daughter and son-in-law have a Island Trader 41 built in '77 - They are currently docked in the Florida Keys (Marathon). The shaft tube is in need of replacing.

The current plan is to remove it in a similar fashion as noted in this post. Then replace it with a "standard" tube, meaning something that is available in Bronze or SS but probably not as long. Would also like to add a carrier bearing to support the shaft where the current stuffing box is located, since a shorter replacement is envisioned as more readily available.

Does anyone have any suggested sources for a replacement tube, either in that area (Keys or Miami) or internet?

We are not at the boat at this time and have not yet measured things - any known measurements would be appreciated (shaft dia, tube inside dia, tub outside dia).

make sure the stern tube, aka shaft tube is long enough to get from the inlet of boat, aka stern, to the beam that stabilizes it , or create a stabilizing system for it. it is a 36 inch or so long tube. good luck. your prop shaft should be 1 5/8 inch or 1.5 inch. might be different as alll of these boats have different measurements for everything. they are not production boats. best of luck with repairing from a location away from boat.

[mashenden]

Originally Posted by zeehag

make sure the stern tube, aka shaft tube is long enough to get from the inlet of boat, aka stern, to the beam that stabilizes it , or create a stabilizing system for it...

Yes indeed. Thank you!

That is the idea behind the carrier bearing - to have a shorter tube (under the assumption that a shorter one will be easier to buy) but support the shaft with a carrier bearing.

Any recommendations on sources for bronze tubes or thoughts on using a fiberglass tube would be appreciated.

[zeehag]

iff i am able to remove the concrete ballast placed over my stern tube, i will replace with fg. that has also been done with these boats.
the pvc liner has been done with great success. that san diego boat is still afloat 10 yrs after. no sweat. i am glad that terra nova, who does not own one of these boats, is having such a grand time laughing at our typical repairs.
our non production boats are fun to fix, and nothing is same as any other boat, which rocks my world.

mashenden--you going to go dripless system>?? make sure ye check your hose clamps frequently, as even ss rot away and then the boat tries to sink midocean, as has been known and documented as happening. i heard about this years ago, then learned it was a boat belonging to a ltyc member, who wrote about the adventure of repairs at sea and saved his boat nicely. but the idea is one i have been thinking long and hard about.. is a good conversion, as our drive lines have easy access.

[mashenden]

Originally Posted by zeehag

iff i am able to remove the concrete ballast placed over my stern tube, i will replace with fg. that has also been done with these boats.
the pvc liner has been done with great success. that san diego boat is still afloat 10 yrs after. no sweat. i am glad that terra nova, who does not own one of these boats, is having such a grand time laughing at our typical repairs.
our non production boats are fun to fix, and nothing is same as any other boat, which rocks my world.

mashenden--you going to go dripless system>?? make sure ye check your hose clamps frequently, as even ss rot away and then the boat tries to sink midocean, as has been known and documented as happening. i heard about this years ago, then learned it was a boat belonging to a ltyc member, who wrote about the adventure of repairs at sea and saved his boat nicely. but the idea is one i have been thinking long and hard about.. is a good conversion, as our drive lines have easy access.

It has drip-less, which we plan to inspect and hopefully keep. Thankfully in our case there isn't concrete ballast in the way. That would certainly be an added obstacle.