Antifouling a Prop

[ssullivan]

Originally Posted by S/V Illusion

It may be winter in New England but that doesn't necessitate winter hauling. We and lot of other folks haul every couple of years or more to do the bottoms, maintain seacocks, props, zincs, etc but for marinas equipped to preclude ice, winter storage in the water is often safer, cheaper and obviously facilitates spring commissioning not having to wait to get back in.

Well, obviously... I also don't haul out for the winter in New England. I was only trying to help here with a mis-understanding. I haul every two years as well in New England.

[ssullivan]

Also, I'm not quite seeing how there is controversy in this thread.

fastbttms is a diver who cleans boats. Haul outs can do it too.

fastbttms can clean your hull while you're at work. Haul outs (usually) require some owner input, if you're not paying a fortune to have them move your boat, haul, pressure wash and re-launch.

Seems a no-brainer to hire a diver to me (if you are concerned with growth).

[Latitude9.5]

Originally Posted by ssullivan

Also, I'm not quite seeing how there is controversy in this thread.

fastbttms is a diver who cleans boats. Haul outs can do it too.

fastbttms can clean your hull while you're at work. Haul outs (usually) require some owner input, if you're not paying a fortune to have them move your boat, haul, pressure wash and re-launch.

Seems a no-brainer to hire a diver to me (if you are concerned with growth).

I think the original controversy stemmed from the whole "just run your boat and you don't need any anti-foul on the prop" then digressed even further into "is fastbttms, fast or average", my guess is fast, but I must admit I am basing this conclusion on his screen name only.

[ssullivan]

Originally Posted by Latitude9.5

I think the original controversy stemmed from the whole "just run your boat and you don't need any anti-foul on the prop" then digressed even further into "is fastbttms, fast or average", my guess is fast, but I must admit I am basing this conclusion on his screen name only.

Ha ha ha!!

It's a good thing he didn't pick "slowbottoms" as a screen name.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by S/V Illusion

Short of copper cladding the bronze prop which is an inherently bad thing to do,

Sorry to bring this thread back on to the original topic
Why is copper cladding (and I am talking electro-plating here) an inherently dab thing. What are the consequences?

[Weyalan]

For what it is worth, I had been hearing good things about "prop-speed", which is a 2-part "paint" (for want of a better word) that is specifically desgned for props. I tried iot on my boat, and have been quite impressed with the results (it costs a sh1tload though)

[David M]

Originally Posted by Weyalan

For what it is worth, I had been hearing good things about "prop-speed", which is a 2-part "paint" (for want of a better word) that is specifically desgned for props. I tried iot on my boat, and have been quite impressed with the results (it costs a sh1tload though)

How much do they want for prop-speed?

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by David M

How much do they want for prop-speed?

Based on what I've read in other threads here, over $100 per treatment. And the treatment doesn't last particularly long. But it is effective, while it lasts.

[S/V Illusion]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Sorry to bring this thread back on to the original topic
Why is copper cladding (and I am talking electro-plating here) an inherently dab thing. What are the consequences?

In concept, it's a great idea, albeit not a novel one, but the problems occur in implementation. It's very difficult to clad copper onto essentially a copper alloy (i.e., a bronze prop) in terms of adhesion, unintended electrolysis of the alloy during cladding and changing the strength of the alloy.

I have a close relative who owns a brass business and some of the people who work for him have some expertise in cladding. They are unanimous in their opinion when I asked about this years ago.

I would be very interested if you or someone does do it to see how it worked out.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by S/V Illusion

I have a close relative who owns a brass business and some of the people who work for him have some expertise in cladding. They are unanimous in their opinion when I asked about this years ago.

I would be very interested if you or someone does do it to see how it worked out.

Hmm... The local electro-platers (who do a lot of contract navy work) seem to think it was very easy and did it regularly. For instance before chrome platting bronze, they put on a copper layer first. I will ask them again - maybe the first guy was having a lend of me! Will keep you posted.

[S/V Illusion]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Hmm... The local electro-platers (who do a lot of contract navy work) seem to think it was very easy and did it regularly. For instance before chrome platting bronze, they put on a copper layer first. I will ask them again - maybe the first guy was having a lend of me! Will keep you posted.

Please do as I'd also like to know the real story. As I said, I've always been lead to believe by people not interested in making a profit off me that it was un-wise. I'd be leary of any advice given by someone doing electro-plating as a business (who is looking at me as a potential customer) for that obvious reason.

[Mata'irea]

Has anyone had any experience with Seajet Pellerclean? It has been suggested to us as an alternative to Prop-speed. At half the price of Prop-speed, we're interested in giving it a try, but not if it is half as effective as Prop-speed.

[Steve Pope]

I have had reasonable success with CRC "soft Seal" It appears the same or very similar to another spray on prop treatment available here in NZ. Can't remember the name unfortunately and Gwalarn is 1 3/4 hrs drive away where I have the remnants of a can. the difference is the named spray costs around $50.00 a can and the soft seal is around $15.00. The method of application is the same. I know of some who heat the prop to open the pores of the metal and consider that it lasts longer though I havn't tried doing it. Also I have applied the soft seal between tides and have found that it still lasts 2 to 3 months.
Also I have just read about a guy who had his prop repaired it Napier in 1988 and as he couldn't get TBT antifouling paint it was reccommended he use lanoguard, he claims that until 1997 he never had to re-treat it, sounds good, I might try it next time. He also had to heat the prop before application but the suggestion was that this made it easier to spread the lanoline rather than opening the pores of the metal.

[senormechanico]

Originally Posted by Latitude9.5

A friend cleans mine, he's retired and just does it for beer money and women. Anyhow, he cleans my 46 foot boat in under an hour and he does a good job as I had him clean it once the day before I hauled it and I've seen how clean it was. (had a bit of a hike so i wanted a clean bottom). he cleans the thru hulls too

over the last week or so the sheepshead have been cleaning it, they take way longer then an hour.

I'm just catching up on this thread, but I had NO IDEA there were beer and women down there! I'll dive over the side right away and take a look!

Steve B.

[Alan Wheeler]

I think the idea of heating the prop to open the "pores" is a red hearing. There are no pores large enough to allow any liquid substance into, in anyway that would allow the product to remain for any longer time. Bearing Bronze and Cintered bronze is specially made porous to allow oil to impregnate. they both have very large "pores" to take up oil and release it slowly over time. But the metals are made that way. Normal Bronze or any metal for that matter is not made that way.