Anti fouling propellers

[Ian McD]

Who has any up to date info on anti fouling props?

[Hydra]

This year, I tried Nautix A7T.Speed on my propeller. I should dive and have a look.

Alain

[model 10]

I'm going with Lanokote Prop this time. Forespar says you can apply it underwater when it needs to be refreshed.

[cpa]

I have a saildrive and just used Primcon primer and Trilux 33 on the aluminum prop. No complaints from diver. The Sea Hawk Smart Solution on the saildrive is another story. Not good results from that product. Diver not happy.

[bob_77903]

I put Pettit Zinc Coat on last year, and have really liked the results so far...

[Captain Bill]

Originally Posted by Guy

I'm going with Lanokote Prop this time. Forespar says you can apply it underwater when it needs to be refreshed.

We tried Lanokote Prop last year and it worked well for about 6 months. When we went to reapply it under water we found that the metal has to be spotlessly clean. It did not stick on metal that we had not scrubbed with an abrasive sponge. You could tell where you had not cleaned well enough because it would not stick to that spot.

We applied it while on the hard originally using a heat gun to warm the props. It went on quite well and was self leveling. It seems like pretty good stuff for the price. I did 2 props on about 1/8 of the jar. The only issue is that you'll smell like s sheep farmer for a couple of days if you get any on you.

[cpa]

Originally Posted by bob_77903

I put Pettit Zinc Coat on last year, and have really liked the results so far...

I heard the Zinc coat is a good way to go.

[haw1961]

Another vote for the zinc coat. Have used it for 3 years works good.

[fstbttms]

Tried applying the Lanocote product underwater last winter (water temps in the 50s.) Would not adhere. Have not tried it since, although our temps are now approaching 70 degrees.

[Albro359]

Propspeed is good, but the prop has to move every now and then. If it's sitting still for months it doesn't work that well in my experience.

[Roy M]

PropSpeed. Put the primer etcher on, let it get tacky, apply a second coat of primer etcher. Then, before it totally dries. apply the silicone, then add some more, making sure no drips. Then, begin painting the shaft, excluding the zinc attachment. Same as the prop, double up the primer etcher and the final silicone coats. My last application with one coat (and an enthusiastic bottom cleaner) was durable for one year. The boat yard crew taught me the second coat trick, learned from the commercial fishing guys. Supposedly last two years. We will see, as I will be hauling again to install a new centerboard.

Folding props need to be disassembled, sanded, cleaned, painted (hanging by a thread or suspended through the pin hole with a rat tail file), then reassembled when dried and cured overnight. Expect some wear on the bearing surfaces at the hub. The key is the color. It should be uniformly gold after multiple applications of primer etcher.