Help! Transitioning from sail to twin screws

[markpierce]

In California, the speed limit in no-wake zones is 5 mph (4+ knots); regardless, the speed limit is also 5 mph anytime (not necessarily posted) the vessel is within 100 ft of a bather or within 200 feet of a bathing beach, swimming float, diving platform or life line, passenger landing being used, or landing where boats are tied up.

Outside of speed-controlled areas, the Coot doesn't create much of a wake even at its fastest (7.3-knot) speed. I only slow down for other boats if they are small/open such as a row boat or kayak.



In open waters, most boaters I encounter don't seem concerned with their wakes. It's common that I slow down and turn into other boaters' wakes to reduce their effect on me.

[Cheechako]

at low plane or just below the wake will be terrible. I've spent many a day on a trawler or sailboat wishing the powerboat operators who were trying to be nice by slowing down would just whizz past me at speed... very little wake that way.. instead they try do the right thing and slow down creating a big wake in doing so, as well as moving at non planing speed as they go past.... and the sail or trawler rolls like heck!

[eliems]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

at low plane or just below the wake will be terrible. I've spent many a day on a trawler or sailboat wishing the powerboat operators who were trying to be nice by slowing down would just whizz past me at speed... very little wake that way.. instead they try do the right thing and slow down creating a big wake in doing so, as well as moving at non planing speed as they go past.... and the sail or trawler rolls like heck!

That's interesting, so either a slow displacement speed of fast plane for the least wake.

[Cheechako]

Yeah, but many sailors/trawlers will shake their fist at you if you go by at speed... not realizing what they are asking for! Best to steer clear and ignore them! haha :>)

[Cheechako]

Yeah, many outdrives are not to be operated except in the full down position. I guess it depends on which you have...

[GPSocal]

Those 'Legs" or outdrives transmit power to the propeller from the engine, first horizonntally thru the transom, then vertically, and finally horizontally again through the propeller shaft. Like an outboard, the shifting mechanism is in the outdrive. The outdrives contain many moving parts and need to be well maintained to insure water does not get into the gearing . If the boat is in the water all the time, the maintenance factor is increased. Make sure your surveyor checks both units when you haul the boat particularly for water intrusion into the gearcase and any electrolysis damage. .

[eliems]

What configuration would be better for this kind of HP? I liked the direct drive of the sailboat but I don't imagine that would work very well for 5.7's?

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by eliems

What configuration would be better for this kind of HP? I liked the direct drive of the sailboat but I don't imagine that would work very well for 5.7's?

I would tell you that not only does it work very well, but would be my desired configuration. My opinion if it stays in the water, I don't want I/O's. Others of course may have differing opinions

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by eliems

What configuration would be better for this kind of HP? I liked the direct drive of the sailboat but I don't imagine that would work very well for 5.7's?

Yeah, it's not a question of horsepower versus propulsion method... and the inboard/outboard configuration (i.e., with outdrives) can be pretty efficient anyway.

It just comes with some issues you'll have to pay attention to (as do boats with straight shafts, V-drives, outboards, etc.) that are specific to outdrives.

Corrosion from being kept in the water is the most common; often folks around here with outdrives keep the boat in a boatel or other dry storage facility, or in a wet slip but with a lift. Or if the boat isn't used weekly and launching can be convenient, on a trailer.

I've read you should also keep an eye on the bellows over time watching for time to replace those.

I've also been reading in another forum about periodic replacement of elbows and risers -- and sometimes manifolds -- in the exhaust system. Sounds like that's an every 5 year job for fresh-water cooled boats, maybe more often for raw water cooled... because you can't tell from the outside how inevitable internal corrosion is impacting those cast parts. One recommendation, though, was to periodically remove, inspect, replace only when necessary but otherwise reuse what you've got... and it seems to me that would let you keep a closer eye on that, even if it does mean more labor. (This being about inboard gas engines in general, not just an I/O installation.)

And so forth. Ideally your dealer can walk you through all the service issues you should plan for.

-Chris

[GPSocal]

HP not a factor, racing out drive units handle 1,000+hp. Most inboard powered trailer boats use I/O units. Larger boats kept primarily in the water are designed with V-drive or straight shafts. The engines in the Campion you are looking at are mounted next to the transom so the drive shaft goes directly in to the I/O drive. V-drive configurations also have the engine mounted near the transom but turned around. The engine power shaft faces forward and goes into the V-drive transmission which sends the power back on a propeller shaft through the hull.
Downside to I/O's in the water all the time is exposure to salt water & electrolysis.

[Cheechako]

For a 30 foot boat, I would look for one with conventional shafts. Outdrives are the most problematic part of these type boats usually, and expensive to fix. once the boat gets above the normally trailerable length/width, many builders go to shaft drive to avoid the outdrive issues.
Anouther thing to watch for is the transom core.... outdrives penetrate the transom and many builders just cut a hole and install the outdrive... the plywood core saturates with water over time from these holes or swim step or other holes in the transom. You have to remove the outdrives to rebuild the transom properly.

[GPSocal]

eliems
Don't wait for adventure - hang every fender you can beg, borrow or steal over the gunwale and practice leaving and entering your slip. You will get used to how the boat handles with the twin outdrives and have all the adventure you can stand during the first few days of powerboat ownership. Go as slow as you can, use the shifters to control direction and ignore the audience on the dock.

[eliems]

Yes I have yet to take the helm, brought the boat home in the dark so I decided to let the seller take the risk before completing and paying him. Skimming along at 30 plus mph is a whole different thing for me and in the dark we couldn't see the logs in the water until they were just feet away. There aren't a lot of deadheads and logs normally but always a few so seems to be a numbers game playing the odds when motoring at night. If the water was rough it would be impossible to see them!
When we got to the marina we needed to see dock numbers so he used the spotlight on the radar arch with remote control to the helm ... Worked great.

Seller told me he leaves the through valves open all the time, (engine cooling, sink and toilet), but that seems dangerous to me.

Also wondering about the salt water intake drawing fresh water off the surface and freezing. I understand people use compressed air to clear the line and then close the valve and fill it with antifreeze. Seller told be to leave a lightbulb on the the engine compartment instead.

[ranger58sb]

Given what I know about running at night (30 mph, not so great), and what I think I know about your winter temps, not sure I'd trust much of what your seller said about winterizing... unless you'll be on the boat 24/7 with other heat sources running.

The whole regime is extensive and with details specific to your boat, and varies somewhat depending on whether you're storing in water our out, but in very general and abbreviated terms:
- run potable (environmentally friendly) antifreeze through your engines and then shut the thru-hulls
- ditto genset, if you have one
- ditto air conditioning, if you have one
- run potable antifreeze (aka pink stuff, RV stuff) through your freshwater systems (drinking water), "saltwater" (river, whatever) washdown systems, if you have one, hot water heater, etc. This is the one where the system can be largely emptied with compressed air, and you may or may not need pink stuff at all except for your waste holding tank. (A waste tank thru-hull should be closed, too.)

The light bulb idea is pretty good, though. Also, a low speed fan can help move that slightly heated air around, helps minimize condensation. You could put a light and a fan on a timer...

If wintering in the water, you may need a de-icer... which usually keeps water moving enough that, along with the movement of the boat itself, means ice usually won't start lifting the hull out of the water...

-Chris

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by ranger42c

... The light bulb idea is pretty good, though...

All good advice.

I’d recommend using a Silicone Coated Rough Service lamp, in this application.
ie: Philips #149716 ➥ Sil Ctd 100W Med 120-130V A21 RS 2WR - Philips