35 foot wooden cruiser - needs an anchor - Sydney

[bcoussens]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

The 15 kg Rocna that Bob is offering would be a good anchor for your boat.

Thanks, Scout, i think that's the one for me :-)

[bcoussens]

Originally Posted by Djarraluda

Also get to know Bruce at Warriewood, he advertises in Afloat - second hand chandlers, good deals to be had on all gear that is not necessarily the smooth and shiny goodies that many want.

Sounds like my sort of stuff, i love used bargains.

[bcoussens]

Originally Posted by Djarraluda

Good diesel mechs that I have known - Sandy Wallace at Yachtech is very good, based on Pittwater but - give him a call.

thanks I will see what damage i'm up for, having a professional install.

[bcoussens]

Originally Posted by 1Sunseeker

I have one I think. Like new, never used, fresh painted, CQR type spade with a long shank maybe 45#? I don't know value maybe $150. range? I will weigh and post photo in a day or so. It is in Anacortes just across from u. I could be talked into delivering it or meeting you at the BC ferry dock. Let me know after weight and photo posted. Sunseeker

Long way from Drummoyne Sydney :-)

[bcoussens]

Gold!

[1Sunseeker]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

Gotta wonder why anyone would paint a "like new, never used" galvanized anchor.

I always paint my anchors. It makes them pretty.

[bcoussens]

Originally Posted by grahamb

I will leave the anchor question alone, but the following may be helpful..

.... get a regular copy of 'AFLOAT' magazine, its free a chandlers and marinas, or better still, subscribe at ...
AFLOAT
PO BOX 709
WILLOUGHBY,SYDNEY,NSW,AUSTRALIA.
PHONE...02 9417 6499.

It is issued monthly, and has wealth of detail on Sydney marine suppliers and private ads, including marine engines new and used, marine articles on cruising, restorations, maritime history and marine happenings in Sydney Harbour, and beyond.

............I recommend Balmain Marina. phone 0438 002 918..for DIY weekend slipping, just a stone's through away from your mooring....and may well be able to provide a tow for that short distance.

Good luck with this project.

So spoke to Balmain Marina (I think Jeremy) about weekend slipping, its $800 for the weekend + hoisting ($150) + paint and antifoul, I haven't priced the paint yet but I'm thinking about $300 and I'm sure there are other costs I haven't taken into account so the quote I had for all in of 2k is actually not looking so bad now.

[svseachange]

Originally Posted by bcoussens

new engines look like 10k+ is that what it would cost to fit one??? i hope not.

Yes, expect to pay $10k+. The only way to get around this cost is to source a used engine and fit it yourself. Or better yet, fix the one you have.

There is a mechanic at Balmain Marine Centre who might be as to give you a rough estimate.

Jeremy of Balmain Marine Centre is a good bloke who knows the marine industry and is very smart. He will give you good straightforward advice.

[bcoussens]

So made some more progress on her this weekend, got to spend the entire day today.

Removed the old steering as the main beam had rusted through and my plan is to move the wheel to the port side of the boat and lift the main electrical board up higher and tight to the cabin wall. Q: any reason why I couldn't use single cable multiflex system 5m (it will need a 1m extension arm to reach the rudder arm but should be easy to fabricate.



Moved the main power board up and to the left (where the wheel used to be) and re-run all the main cables and wires, including the winch breaker and solar controller. Q: Anyone know what the alternator controller does/is capable of? I haven't looked at the schematic and assume it can control the charging system when the diesel is running but looks like it can do more (15 wires coming out) it also seems to connect to a serious solenoid!



Reinforced the centre floor bearers as they were a bit springy and trimmed the old floor back and added new supports for the centre removable floor sections.

[bcoussens]

forgot the shot of the controller

[bcoussens]

Originally Posted by bcoussens

forgot the shot of the controller

So my understanding of the below is that it automatically charges the starting battery - I did hear a click today so might have been that triggering, I will test this next time im on the boat (all power currently supplied from a 100w panel on the roof) but this is also wired into the controller.


Parallel Solenoid Signal:

The SAR-V3 has also been designed to provide a new level of system integration. The unit drives a parallel solenoid to simplify charging a starter battery at the same time a house battery is charged. This parallel signal is active even when the engine isn't running.

With the parallel solenoid driver, the SAR-V3 is ideal for motorhomes and fifth-wheel homes. The loads which are normally drawn from the starter battery can stay connected as wired ...the standard solenoid will supply 85 Amps continuously, (400 A intermittent). The same parallel solenoid can even be used with a manual parallel switch to connect the house and starter batteries.

[Lepke]

Before you get too far on rebuilding your boat, I suggest you find a good source of online boats for sale, view the pictures, and make a complete plan for your boat. Many project owners end up with funky layouts, RV windows, ugly boats and construction methods that hurt resale.

[bcoussens]

Thanks for the feedback Lepke,
I do have a master plan ( but it is in my head [emoji3]) the way I tend to work is the big picture is more of a high level design and then when I start a particular job I draw that up in detail. Now that won't help me with your concern of bad layout, I do feel with this build that I'm more or less removing additions from the last 40 years and simplifying than adding stuff. In regards to layout the major change is that main deck is now open rather than enclosed with walls and a door. The front cabin will not change layout at all.

The boat does look a little funny now as the side walls are gone and the transition from cabin to deck is unbalanced, the plan here is to replicate the original roof support at an angle of about 160 degrees with the same spacing as the existing support. If that doesn't work / looks funky when constructed then I will replace the wall to main cabin hight in the front section of the rear area and see how that looks.

The hours of photos and plans I review could be seen as strange to some ( my wife) but I absolutely love it and always keeps my builds on track.

If you have seen something I've done that doesn't look right or well constructed please tell me as i would like to keep it simpethetic to the old style and well constructed.

I'll post a video of the her from a distance so you can see what I mean about the balance between cabin and open deck.

[bcoussens]

More demo today all the rot gone now, time for new beams and floor! The challenge looks even bigger now!

[Scout 30]

I started to post that you're going to end up with more time & money in this boat than it's worth but then I though, wait a minute, that's every boat. How about, this is going to be way more expensive than you think it is. Sorry, every boat again. I will say that when you haul out don't be surprised if you have to replace some planks. Hopefully the stem & keel are good. Anyway, here's a good forum for wooden boat repair.
The WoodenBoat Forum
Also Offcenterharbor.com has some informative videos that might help.