Frigoboat Diagnosis

[islandrunner70]

Hi all,

This weekend my fridge stop functioning. The compressor would start then stop after 30 seconds. Now only the fan motor spins, though not as fast when functional, but no cooling. I am not sure if it is the compressor or controller.

The boat is an Oceanis 370 1993 and the frigoboat is original.

I haven't found anything online for diagnosis and I can't find the details on the controller or compressor.

Attached are some pics.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Anna Sail]

Your system is using a Danfoss compressor that is obsolete, it pre-dates the current BD35-BD50 models by about 15 years. I'm not surprised you can't find information to diagnosis your problem. It may be more cost effective to replace than to try to repair.

[Richard Kollmann]

Disconnect Fan wires from module then see if compressor will operate correctly. That model module will prevent compressor from running if fan draws more than one amp. If compressor does run replace that old fan with a four inch Muffin (computer) fan.

Is the LOW BAT light on or off.

I do not charge to test Control modules if you pay shipping both ways.

Electrical problems like yours are easily DIY corrected without replacing system.

[Finn.G]

Hi Richard, do you have a specific fan that you would use for replacement? There are a lot of 120mm fans out there but I can't find one that is 4 inches.

Thank you,

Greg

[Bill O]

Greg,
A 100mm muffin fan will probably fit like this one. This is just one I found quickly and there are most likely cheaper ones out there.

[Finn.G]

I have a similar problem as OP. The fan comes on and there is a high pitched noise but the compressor does not start. Per Richard's recommendation i pulled the fan wires from the controller and now the high pitched noise comes on every thirty seconds or so and no compressor.

The compressor is a Frigoboat AH12 and the controller is a E250154.

thanks in advance, Greg

[Finn.G]

Also, is there a direct replacement for the AH12 Compressor and for the 250154 controller?

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by Finn.G

I have a similar problem as OP. The fan comes on and there is a high pitched noise but the compressor does not start. Per Richard's recommendation i pulled the fan wires from the controller and now the high pitched noise comes on every thirty seconds or so and no compressor.

The compressor is a Frigoboat AH12 and the controller is a E250154.

thanks in advance, Greg

The high pitch sound you hear is the 20 years plus old style module preventing compressor from starting do to a fan drawing more than one amp, or a low voltage spike, or amperage load of compressor module excessive. After you have completed the normal test then you will require another control module as a test or fix. If someone has tampered with refrigerant too much refrigerant will prevent module from starting compressor. Low on refrigerant will not cause the high pitch sound or prevent compressor from running

Troubleshooting 4 pin modules consists of the following:

1. Place jumper wire across thermostat terminals, Compressor still does not run.

2. Disconnect black fan wire from electronic module, Compressor runs replace fan. Compressor still does not run after fan ground wire is disconnected. If one of the 10 transistors in this fan fail it can cause module to prevent compressor from running.

3. Run correct size and correct polarity fused jumper wires direct from a fully charged battery to module in order to bypass all boat’s wiring. Volt meter readings are of no value, Compressor still does not run electronic module needs to be tested on another unit. A refrigeration sales person will try to sell you a new system when solution is electrical. Because these 4 pin modules are no longer available look for one on Ebay or From wwwRparts.com. Any one of the 10 four pin connector Danfoss modules will operate your compressor. The E250 module you ave now is a Frigoboat replacement for the original 12 volt.

[Finn.G]

thank you Richard.

1. Jumped thermostat, fan cycles, no compressor.

2. pulled wire, no fan no compressor

3. is next.

on the controller that will run it can you be a little more specific so i locate one.?

Thank you again.

[Richard Kollmann]

Step #3 is the most difficult Because it eliminates the most common Dirty boat wiring troubles. If you want to spend the $150 and bypass step 3 any one of the 10 different Danfoss 12 volt modules with 4 pin wire connectors will work.
http://kollmannmarine.com/modules.aspx