Painting the yacht

[atoll]

Originally Posted by coopec43

Actually I am very pleased with the fairing I did as there are only two quite small indentations that I can see on the hull. And those two/three I can only see when the sun is at a certain angle.

Just about all the perfections are in the paint job.

Clive

it was not a criticism,the hull looks very fair for a round bilge homebuilt metal yacht,indeed even proffesionally built yachts using the best equipment will have up to a half inch of filler on them to get that perfect finish when sprayed in climate controlled conditions with a team of painters and fairers.

my suggestion was only an attempt at providing an alternate solution if conditions ,time and costs make this hard to achieve, when the alternative is to sand again and respray untill the results are more to your satisfaction.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Fore and Aft

You cannot just replace the needle as it will not bed the same on the end cap. Not to mention the all the mechanics holding the needle might be different. You might get lucky and be able to buy a new hand piece and just unscrew the hoses from your old gun.
Cheers

But! But But! Surely the manufacturers would make different sized nozzles for the gun I bought from them?



Clive

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by atoll

it was not a criticism,the hull looks very fair for a round bilge homebuilt metal yacht,indeed even proffesionally built yachts using the best equipment will have up to a half inch of filler on them to get that perfect finish when sprayed in climate controlled conditions with a team of painters and fairers.

my suggestion was only an attempt at providing an alternate solution if conditions ,time and costs make this hard to achieve, when the alternative is to sand again and respray untill the results are more to your satisfaction.

Just for the record the yacht is f/g.

I suppose a metal hulls would have all sorts of undulations caused by welding stresses. But I've looked at production boats at boat shows etc and you can see imperfections where, for example, bulkheads are bonded to the hull. Even though the painters would be professionals working in controlled conditions I bet their job is not perfect as there are cost restraints they must work to.

I try to do the best job I can but I am a realist: I want to see the yacht in the water...... Maybe I am the only one who notices the imperfections?

Clive

[mikeyboards]

i agree with Atoll.if you not happy about the finish you have at present it will more likely need to be sanded again with a orbital sander and light grit paper and hopefully the 2nd spray attempt will be better,no guarantee it will be better..touching up runs and spraying over them is a pita..so unless
it is a botched job ,put it down to a being a learning curve and move on ..

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by mikeyboards

i agree with Atoll.if you not happy about the finish you have at present it will more likely need to be sanded again with a orbital sander and light grit paper and hopefully the 2nd spray attempt will be better,no guarantee it will be better..touching up runs and spraying over them is a pita..so unless
it is a botched job ,put it down to a being a learning curve and move on ..

As I said I'm satisfied although there are imperfections: I'm moving on to the next job.

If I was going to sand it back I wouldn't use an orbital sander, that would achieve little. I'd prefer to us my double piston air sander (Straight line sander) as used by panel beaters.

If I paint again I will not spray as I will use the "roll and tip" and maybe use one part paint. I've been doing a little reading this afternoon and that may be the way to go when I decide it needs repainting in five years time.


Clive

[bhenry]

Here’s the link to the Pt watercraft ebook on rolling perfection. I recently downloaded this and plan too give it a go on my deck and cabin.

[url=http://www.ptwatercraft.com/ptwatercraft/Rolling_Perfection_by_Russell_Brown.html]

[chris95040]

2 part poly gets unworkable really fast.

You want a cloudy day so the surface you are applying it to is cool, you want no wind, and you need to hustle.

You use the brush to even it out and knock down bubbles while the paint is still completely wet. I guess this is why folks recommend doing roll + tip with two people, you don't want to be working that paint even a minute after it was put down.

If its too thin (30% sounds like way too much) the finish won't be glossy and the brush strokes wont bleed together into oblivion, in my experience. You don't need more thinner, you just need to move faster.

Don't bother trying to go back and fix anything, you are a simple machine making the same motions over and over, working your way around the boat. If something goes wrong your attempts to fix it are just going to make it worse and ruin your rhythm.

[Tetepare]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

My Jim talked to me about the "car painting syndrome", where for show cars, one wants "perfect" paint jobs. For boats, it is not so much so, none of those "15 coats of hand rubbed lacquer". The UV's gonna get to it, and it will at some point no longer be perfect. Paint is fragile, compared to gelcoat.

Ann

And you’ve got fenders rolling back and forth and dock hits and lift slings. Paint takes a beating.

Looks good as is. Get sailing!

[bhenry]

Originally Posted by chris95040

2 part poly gets unworkable really fast.

You want a cloudy day so the surface you are applying it to is cool, you want no wind, and you need to hustle.

You use the brush to even it out and knock down bubbles while the paint is still completely wet. I guess this is why folks recommend doing roll + tip with two people, you don't want to be working that paint even a minute after it was put down.

If its too thin (30% sounds like way too much) the finish won't be glossy and the brush strokes wont bleed together into oblivion, in my experience. You don't need more thinner, you just need to move faster.

Don't bother trying to go back and fix anything, you are a simple machine making the same motions over and over, working your way around the boat. If something goes wrong your attempts to fix it are just going to make it worse and ruin your rhythm.

Russel recommends 15%+ for thinning. That said, I spoke with a guy recently who painted his 47’’ sailboat rolling at about 3%...I will be working in a heated shop so I can adjust temps. What temperature do you recommend. Looks like perfection can be applied down to 40f. Much lower than Awlgrip it appears.

[admiralslater]

I rolled and tipped a 27 foot glass ply catamaran many years ago and it worked and lasted well. We used one part ephaines . Several things made it work .
1 dont use a giant roller ,we used a 3-4 inch one
2 dont use a cheap foam brush ie Home Depot etc.
3 dont do it alone as you cant keep up with the drying time on your own
One rolls the other tips
4 after the initial thinning,if the brush starts to drag while tipping add more thinner until it stops
5 when the foam brush gets saturated change it
6 concentrate and work fast
This paint job lasted about 8 years the last 3 of which the new owner beat it up

I think your boat looks fine ,time to move on

[hellosailor]

Clive-
Painting (a yacht, a car, an airplane) is like baking a cake. Any idiot can do it, but few will do it well enough to compete with the full-time pros on the first try. Given that some folks will say "Wow!" while other folks will say "How do you expect me to shave in that?"....yeah, the pros charge good money.
Every amateur sprayer (including some cheap yards that claim to be pros) will wind up with bugs or dust embedded in the paint. The real pros will be painting indoors in big expensive spray rooms, with temperature and humidity and dust control, and no bugs. And all that stuff costs a lot of money.
So, if you can live with 95% of the quality at 65% of the price, some folks would call that a good deal. Others would just say "I paid for 100%, not 95%."
Boaters, like car owners, just don't grasp the concept that simple WAXING and PROTECTING the hull pays off in the long term. Beats all hell out of the eventual paint job.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by coopec43

Fore and Aft


You are spot on.

*Paint Tank Capacity : 10 Litres
*Type of Feed : Suction
*Standard Dia of Nozzle :3.5mm
*Set The distance from the gun to the work piece as near as possible within the range of 200mm-250mm(8-10 in)
*Weight:10KG

QUOTE Maybe this time buy a gun with a 1.2mm tip, Super Cheap Auto has some cheap guns......QUOTE

Can't I just buy a 1.2mm nozzle for the gun?


Clive

Clive, most reputable suppliers of spray painting equipment can supply a new tip and needle set of the size that you need. They are a set, the tip and needle are sized for each other.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Tetepare

And you’ve got fenders rolling back and forth and dock hits and lift slings. Paint takes a beating.

Looks good as is. Get sailing!

Absolutely!

After putting big scuff marks down the side of the yacht I'll soon get over it!


Clive

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by chris95040

2 part poly gets unworkable really fast.

You want a cloudy day so the surface you are applying it to is cool, you want no wind, and you need to hustle.

You use the brush to even it out and knock down bubbles while the paint is still completely wet. I guess this is why folks recommend doing roll + tip with two people, you don't want to be working that paint even a minute after it was put down.

If its too thin (30% sounds like way too much) the finish won't be glossy and the brush strokes wont bleed together into oblivion, in my experience. You don't need more thinner, you just need to move faster.

Don't bother trying to go back and fix anything, you are a simple machine making the same motions over and over, working your way around the boat. If something goes wrong your attempts to fix it are just going to make it worse and ruin your rhythm.

Thanks for your input.

Yes I have tried "roll and tipping" keeping in mind ÿour advice "You want a cloudy day so the surface you are applying it to is cool, you want no wind"

I started painting early in the morning just on sunrise and on the shaded side of the hull and it made no difference.

As stated in my first post I now I know there are three different Type B Hardeners "Normal", "Slow" and "Ultra Slow". Obviously I should have used a slow hardener.


Clive

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

Clive, most reputable suppliers of spray painting equipment can supply a new tip and needle set of the size that you need. They are a set, the tip and needle are sized for each other.

Of course! I'll do a bit of research on eBay.

Thanks

Clive