Online source for small piece(s) of teak for instrument mounting?

[Cheechako]

I've done this a couple times with minimal instrument, something to think about:
-Pivoting or swinging the units out takes very pliable wiring.
-You will need a big loop in the wire to do this.
-too big a "harness" of wire will be stiff and may not work well even with the big loop..
-When you swing it back in, the loop interferes with the panel as it's stiff and behind it.

[Reefmagnet]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

But a warning regarding acrylic; It cuts leaving a very rough edge. If you want the edge to look good, a lot of sanding will be required, also, it fills the sandpaper very quickly.

Slow the sanding speed down and use course paper. Wet and dry if you want to be a perfectionist. If it doesn't soften it won't clog the disk. We'd only be talking 1/8" thickness here. I usually use a random orbital for that sort of job or a belt sander for the thicker stuff.

A tungsten carbide circular saw doesn't do a bad job for straight lines if properly set, either.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

Slow the sanding speed down and use course paper. Wet and dry if you want to be a perfectionist. If it doesn't soften it won't clog the disk. We'd only be talking 1/8" thickness here. I usually use a random orbital for that sort of job or a belt sander for the thicker stuff.

A tungsten carbide circular saw doesn't do a bad job for straight lines if properly set, either.

Only 1/8" for mounting those instruments? Well, if that's the case then yeah, sanding would be a lot easier. I was thinking at least 3/8".

[basssears]

We were discussing the acrylic as a back to the whole mount, so nothing mounted into the acrylic just using it as a cover, in theory the "stuff" would be mounted in a block of teak.

-- Bass

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Only 1/8" for mounting those instruments? Well, if that's the case then yeah, sanding would be a lot easier. I was thinking at least 3/8".

[Reefmagnet]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Only 1/8" for mounting those instruments? Well, if that's the case then yeah, sanding would be a lot easier. I was thinking at least 3/8".

The idea of the acrylic is to protect the back of the instruments with an easily removable panel. That's what I am referring to. Although acrylic does make a very nice instrument face too which would indeed need to be little thicker for the application discussed.

Edit: ^^ What he said, lol.

[basssears]

Thanks, some things to consider for sure.

I realize it doesn't sound like an ideal solution, but my other options are:
1) Double gauges everywhere, one for indoor steering station and one for out (not cheap, more effort of wiring everything up, although there are some items that are already in place at indoor steering like water temp gauge).
2) Single gauges indoor and then repeat using NMEA over WiFi onto tablet outdoors (might eventually repeat anyway, but not a robust primary solution, prone to failure at inopportune moments).

Originally Posted by Cheechako

I've done this a couple times with minimal instrument, something to think about:
-Pivoting or swinging the units out takes very pliable wiring.
-You will need a big loop in the wire to do this.
-too big a "harness" of wire will be stiff and may not work well even with the big loop..
-When you swing it back in, the loop interferes with the panel as it's stiff and behind it.

[Reefmagnet]

If the wires have a hanging loop with offset, all should be fine. The thing to avoid is having some wires flex or strain more than others in the bundle. Take a look at how they run all those wires into your car door these days for inspiration.

[Dave22q]

Local here in Marathon does mail order and walk in. Prices seemed reasonable to me. Buck's www.buckwoodcraft.com

[reed1v]

Teak is hard to work with. Suggest using a soft wood with a teak veneer overlay. Should be able to find teak surfacing at the big box stores. A 1/8 thick piece should work quite well. Or just take one of the doors off a teak veneer cupboard.

[Nicholson58]

We have Johnson's Workbench in Michigan. Hardwood Lumber, Solid Wood Countertops, Marine and Veneer Plywood Go to lumber and look up decking. Also, locally many hardwood specialty shops. Why Teak? I would use also any other durable tropical hardwood. Consider Ipe sold as flooring and available here in planks. I happen to have teak scraps through a contact at Four-Wins and I have a pile of Jarah, also a great all-weather wood. I am using the Jarah for a new instrument panel at the binnacle. Both Ipe and Jarah are much stronger than teak and have better weathering capability. The Jarah made great toe rail & splash rail in heavy sections. Oiled once three years ago and its still brown.

[rhall228]

Try buck woodcraft in marathon Florida.
Teak Molding & Accessories :: Teak Drawer Pulls & Handles -

[oleman]

Originally Posted by basssears

I'll look into that... I will have a little time with this as I plan to build it at home where I have some space and some better tools (and some more time than my very limited time on the boat).

Can you cut acrylic sheet with a fine tooth blade in a jigsaw?

Best cutting is with a band saw with a very fine toothed blade.
A Harbor Freight bench model with a good blade works fine.
Like most mechanical skills the more practice you get the better the outcome. A fine cut file is best for smoothing the tooth marks that are left.
You may want to route out the back of the board to get it thin enough for some of the available gauge models.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by reed1v

Teak is hard to work with. Suggest using a soft wood with a teak veneer overlay. Should be able to find teak surfacing at the big box stores. A 1/8 thick piece should work quite well. Or just take one of the doors off a teak veneer cupboard.

This is not my experience. I've done a lot of boatbuilding. Teak to me is very easy to work with;
-it creates almost no dust as it's oily,
-it's the easiest sanding wood out there, just smooths out super fast,
-it wont crack.
-if finishing it, no fillers required.. nice tight grain.
just sayin'...

[Cheechako]

OP: If you feel you need to cover the back of the panel, one option is just a custom Sunbrella type cover, with snaps or just Velcro. One advantage is you can remove it in seconds.

[bustermaw]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

But a warning regarding acrylic; It cuts leaving a very rough edge. If you want the edge to look good, a lot of sanding will be required, also, it fills the sandpaper very quickly.

I've found that wet or dry paper is very good for acrylic edges