interior paint?

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Definitely get a good quality pull scraper, it will work much better. I would skip what you plan and go straight for the pull scraper alone and add heat from a heat gun (not steam or anything) if needed.

Here is what I mean: https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-Premium.../dp/B000288LP6

The carbide blade makes the difference.

OK, will, do... and thanks again. I meant to say before that I'd not thought of a draw scraper, and I can see how that work way better than a putty knife.... so I already ordered one yesterday.

Cheers, -Chris

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by tdunlap

That's pretty much what I've been doing. I was just wishing for a magical highbuild that would make fairing easier. I guess there is no free lunch.

Awlgrip High Build does work, but it's a bit tough to sand. Awl-quick - the medium build - is much nicer to sand. You can topcoat Awl-quick, but to retain gloss, they recommend 545 coat first.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Matt Johnson

We painted all the interior of cabinets with Wet Edge and it does take some time to cure. We mix flat and gloss to make a semi-gloss for these areas. But I had similar long cure times with the Rustolum topside paint I used on the last boat. I just figured it was something with the enamel one part paints.

The Rustoleum, Brightside and EasyPoxy all cured hard overnight. The Wet Edge flat paint was sticky, uncured after 5 days.

I am not allowed to upload video of the experiments here… what a shame, maybe I’ll upload on YouTube…

[s/v Jedi]

Okay, using Youtube, here is the 24h touch/rub test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkgGD6WCW38

[s/v Jedi]

And here the thinner transfer test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmij5JysiNM

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Definitely get a good quality pull scraper, it will work much better. I would skip what you plan and go straight for the pull scraper alone and add heat from a heat gun (not steam or anything) if needed.

Here is what I mean: https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-Premium.../dp/B000288LP6

The carbide blade makes the difference.

Originally Posted by ranger58sb

OK, will, do... and thanks again. I meant to say before that I'd not thought of a draw scraper, and I can see how that work way better than a putty knife.... so I already ordered one yesterday.

Cheers, -Chris

Heat and the pull scraper is working MUCH better than our previous approaches!

It's still a PITA doing the initial scrape 2-1/2" at a time (the size I got), but at least the glue is coming off better now. Thanks again for your suggestion.

BTW, what I called "wallpaper" earlier might be what you called "marine vinyl." Ours were indeed vinyl sheets... installed approximately as poorly as humanly possible...

-Chris

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by ranger58sb

Heat and the pull scraper is working MUCH better than our previous approaches!

It's still a PITA doing the initial scrape 2-1/2" at a time (the size I got), but at least the glue is coming off better now. Thanks again for your suggestion.

BTW, what I called "wallpaper" earlier might be what you called "marine vinyl." Ours were indeed vinyl sheets... installed approximately as poorly as humanly possible...

-Chris

Good to hear! Keep an eye on possible fumes from heating the glue. I like to use a large box fan on top of a deck hatch to create a forced ventilation stream away from me while doing such jobs… so that I don’t need a respirator

[rslifkin]

For the couple of things I've needed to paint inside my boat, I've used Brightside with the maximum recommended amount of flattening agent added to the last coat to make it a totally matte finish. It's worked well enough.

For a shower, I agree that gelcoat works very well. That's how ours was done 38 years ago and it's still in good shape.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Good to hear! Keep an eye on possible fumes from heating the glue. I like to use a large box fan on top of a deck hatch to create a forced ventilation stream away from me while doing such jobs… so that I don’t need a respirator

Good point. And we've also been working in shorter sessions, too.

Looking at my wording above... I didn't mean to say this is working WELL. Just better.

So far we've spent about 18 hours -- spread over about 6 days -- trying to clear the glue from a small but complicated "wall" which is only about 3 square feet total but cluttered with cabinetry edges, countertop edges, and shower surround.

At this rate, maybe we'll be able to actually paint sometime in early May. <sigh>...

-Chris

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by ranger58sb

Good point. And we've also been working in shorter sessions, too.

Looking at my wording above... I didn't mean to say this is working WELL. Just better.

So far we've spent about 18 hours -- spread over about 6 days -- trying to clear the glue from a small but complicated "wall" which is only about 3 square feet total but cluttered with cabinetry edges, countertop edges, and shower surround.

At this rate, maybe we'll be able to actually paint sometime in early May. <sigh>...

-Chris

Can you take some pictures? Attached is a picture with my experiment showing on the right. When you zoom in you see the residue. All that is white was painted with TotalProtect, then sanded.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Can you take some pictures? Attached is a picture with my experiment showing on the right. When you zoom in you see the residue. All that is white was painted with TotalProtect, then sanded.

Hmmm.... Do you mean you just painted over residual glue?

-Chris

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by ranger58sb

Hmmm.... Do you mean you just painted over residual glue?

-Chris

Your pictures? With pictures you enable readers to understand what kind of residue of glue and vinyl you are left with. This greatly helps as now it’s just throwing wild guesses.

Back upthread I explain the process. This isn’t just paint, it is a two part epoxy primer. And it isn’t just glue residue… when you zoom in you see the furry backing left from the vinyl after ripping it off. Even after scraping, part of that is left and incorporated in the epoxy. After cure, it is a very rough and very hard surface that is easily sanded very smooth. This provides a good base for new finishing with paint.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Your pictures? With pictures you enable readers to understand what kind of residue of glue and vinyl you are left with. This greatly helps as now it’s just throwing wild guesses.

Back upthread I explain the process. This isn’t just paint, it is a two part epoxy primer. And it isn’t just glue residue… when you zoom in you see the furry backing left from the vinyl after ripping it off. Even after scraping, part of that is left and incorporated in the epoxy. After cure, it is a very rough and very hard surface that is easily sanded very smooth. This provides a good base for new finishing with paint.

Took me a while to get pics from phone to laptop... and then to remember how to upload... and I forgot to correct orientation before uploading, so all three are rotated 90-degrees counter-clockwise.

Pic 1 is a segment of our as-yet-untreated largest "wall" -- approx 4' x 6-1/2' -- with tacky glue residue.

Pic 2 is the small wall segment next to vanity and shower. Scraped and smooth, with only a couple small square inches of "tacky" that we haven't removed yet. This is the one we've spent so many hours on recently.

Pic 3 is the first "test" segment we tried. The gray part on the left (bottom) has been scraped smooth, no tacky areas, and the lighter segment on the right (top) is primed/topcoated. The primed/topcoated part is rough textured in places because I didn't realize there was a bit of dried (not tacky) glue in a few areas... The replacement wallpaper panel that bubba applied had apparently been missing for years... so the residual glue was fully exposed to air and so forth for a looong time.

Reading has suggested a) priming over wallpaper glue/paste residue is the kiss of death, or b) priming over residual glue/paste with a water-based product is just fine as long as the primer is a bonding primer (Gardz, Kilz, etc.), or c) priming over residual paste/glue is just fine as long as the primer is an oil-based primer... or d) sand off all the remaining glue, or e) do some of those and then apply a skim coat before repriming and topcoating... et cetera.

The primer we used on the test panel is a Sherwin-Williams urethane modified acrylic "bonding primer" (Extreme Bond) -- partly because I didn't realize I could get one of their oil-based primers in something less than gallon containers. (I'm guessing we probably only need a pint of primer and a pint of topcoat, all in.) Seems fine enough.

I'm not qualified to use a two-part product.

I don't have one of our electric sanders (with vacuum) on board; won't have access to one 'til we return home.

-Chris

[s/v Jedi]

If you don’t have a sander then you simply can’t do the project properly. It will never look good and in the end everything has to be stripped again and start over. You can simply go ashore and buy one incl. A small shop vac.

Everybody is rated to use epoxy. Even children use the double barrel syringe epoxies. You will never get a good result without epoxy because you need the rock hard chemical cure and encapsulation of epoxy, then sand it smooth and equal over the whole surface, after that you can use the primer and paint chosen for finishing.

Products like Behr are Home Depot rated products for moldy basements. For a boat you need a completely different class of products which you normally buy from places like Jamestown Distributors, Total Boat etc.

Sorry that I’m not writing what you want to hear and that you spent so many hours with these results; I hope you will realize that you’re on the wrong track but that it’s relatively easy to adapt now rather than do it again later.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Sorry that I’m not writing what you want to hear and that you spent so many hours with these results; I hope you will realize that you’re on the wrong track but that it’s relatively easy to adapt now rather than do it again later.

Not to worry, I appreciate your insight. And I don't have to get this done before we return home. Have several other winter projects on my list anyway, and we've had some of the typical pop-up/unexpected failures that needed attention...

And this one is mostly cosmetic, so I can just put it on hold for a bit, worry about it later.

I just went back and read through earlier comments. We're not seeing anything "fluffy" like you've described. Just glue. I haven't figured out what our bulkheads are made of, although one small segment was apparently something like Masonite, unpainted but with boatloads of residual glue from wallpaper that must have been removed years ago. The other "walls" seem to have been painted, but I dunno what the material is. Smoother like Masonite (except for the pesky glue residue), harder than typical household wallboard/sheetrock, but not really like fiberglass...

Regards, -Chris