interior paint?

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Exactly. Maybe they hear it when multiple people post this because my comments seem to be lost in the barrage of 1-part paint posts.

I don't think your comments are lost or ignored.

Interior water-based acrylic latex wasn't my first choice, but circumstances have led us that way this time for a specific and relatively low-risk situation. The test panel we've painted so far looks decent. And if it doesn't hold up over the next 5-10 years, I could eventually re-do it with other products.

But our problem right now is mostly more focused on removing residual wallpaper glue. Not sure what genius thought wallpaper was a good idea in the first place...

This boat came to us with the original wallpaper (some, attached to wall panels before the panels were installed in the boat) apparently having been replaced by a blind, one-armed three-year-old... two panels already missing... and the rest incorrectly abutted to the toe molding... original towel ring installation points covered up... etc.

The wallpaper itself came off easily. But so far we've spent about 3 weeks off-and-on just trying to remove residual glue from about 35 square feet of wall (wallboard of some sort, near as I can tell), and we've only got about 1/3 of it prepped now.

-Chris

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Exactly. Maybe they hear it when multiple people post this because my comments seem to be lost in the barrage of 1-part paint posts.

I don't think your comments are lost or ignored.

Interior water-based acrylic latex wasn't my first choice, but circumstances have led us that way this time for a specific and relatively low-risk situation. The test panel we've painted so far looks decent. And if it doesn't hold up over the next 5-10 years, I could eventually re-do it with other products.

But our problem is mostly more focused on removing residual wallpaper glue. Not sure what genius thought wallpaper was a good idea in the first place...

This boat came to us with the original wallpaper (some, attached to wall panels before the panels were installed in the boat) apparently having been replaced by a blind, one-armed three-year-old... two panels already missing... and the rest incorrectly abutted to the toe molding... original towel ring installation points covered up... etc.

The wallpaper itself came off easily, about 15 minutes work. But so far we've spent about 3 weeks off-and-on just trying to remove residual glue from about 35 square feet of wall (wallboard of some sort, near as I can tell), and we've only got about 1/3 of it prepped now.

-Chris

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by ranger58sb

I don't think your comments are lost or ignored.

Interior water-based acrylic latex wasn't my first choice, but circumstances have led us that way this time for a specific and relatively low-risk situation. The test panel we've painted so far looks decent. And if it doesn't hold up over the next 5-10 years, I could eventually re-do it with other products.

But our problem is mostly more focused on removing residual wallpaper glue. Not sure what genius thought wallpaper was a good idea in the first place...

This boat came to us with the original wallpaper (some, attached to wall panels before the panels were installed in the boat) apparently having been replaced by a blind, one-armed three-year-old... two panels already missing... and the rest incorrectly abutted to the toe molding... original towel ring installation points covered up... etc.

The wallpaper itself came off easily, about 15 minutes work. But so far we've spent about 3 weeks off-and-on just trying to remove residual glue from about 35 square feet of wall (wallboard of some sort, near as I can tell), and we've only got about 1/3 of it prepped now.

-Chris

How are you trying to remove the glue? I think a heat gun and carbide pull scraper would be my first attempt…

I have marine vinyl glued to bulkheads… when I pull it off it leaves a fluffy layer that belonged to the vinyl. When I heat it with a heat gun first it comes off much cleaner and I immediately follow up with the scraper. Any leftovers I leave… do a quick sand with 80 grit then roll an epoxy barrier coat on (I used TotalProtect for the test) and let that cure (feels very rough but solid) before sanding it easily and completely smooth.
I tried that with different levels of residue and it seems to work for everything.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

How are you trying to remove the glue? I think a heat gun and carbide pull scraper would be my first attempt…

I have marine vinyl glued to bulkheads… when I pull it off it leaves a fluffy layer that belonged to the vinyl. When I heat it with a heat gun first it comes off much cleaner and I immediately follow up with the scraper. Any leftovers I leave… do a quick sand with 80 grit then roll an epoxy barrier coat on (I used TotalProtect for the test) and let that cure (feels very rough but solid) before sanding it easily and completely smooth.
I tried that with different levels of residue and it seems to work for everything.

Thanks. I haven't tried the heat gun yet; sorta been holding that thought while I escalated other ideas first.

First tried Goo Gone spray gel, scraped off with a putty knife. Not bad for the heaviest glue area... but messy... and still leaves a tacky layer everywhere. Tried DIF wallpaper remover, as directed, double strength, direct application... none of those particularly useful. Tried steam, thought that'd be easier than the heat gun, but it was useless.

Yesterday I had some luck with Goo Gone sprayed to a rag, then using the rag to scrub the area a bit at a time... and that showed a bit of promise. Very slow, though. Glue comes off as a bit of powdery stuff, loads up the rag quickly. Thought my next shot would be Goo Gone applied with a rag, then sanded while still wet, then rubbed off with a rag.

If that doesn't get any better, I'll likely follow up on your heat recommendation!

I'm also also still cutting out some bits and pieces of the original wallpaper out from behind the edges of the mirror, countertop, shower surround, toe molding, door surround, etc. Razor knife and some gyrations to reach things...

Originally, I'd thought this would be a relatively easy 2-3 week winter project... with the Admiral doing most of the work (she volunteered)... <sigh>...

-Chris

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by ranger58sb

Thanks. I haven't tried the heat gun yet; sorta been holding that thought while I escalated other ideas first.

First tried Goo Gone spray gel, scraped off with a putty knife. Not bad for the heaviest glue area... but messy... and still leaves a tacky layer everywhere. Tried DIF wallpaper remover, as directed, double strength, direct application... none of those particularly useful. Tried steam, thought that'd be easier than the heat gun, but it was useless.

Yesterday I had some luck with Goo Gone sprayed to a rag, then using the rag to scrub the area a bit at a time... and that showed a bit of promise. Very slow, though. Glue comes off as a bit of powdery stuff, loads up the rag quickly. Thought my next shot would be Goo Gone applied with a rag, then sanded while still wet, then rubbed off with a rag.

If that doesn't get any better, I'll likely follow up on your heat recommendation!

I'm also also still cutting out some bits and pieces of the original wallpaper out from behind the edges of the mirror, countertop, shower surround, toe molding, door surround, etc. Razor knife and some gyrations to reach things...

Originally, I'd thought this would be a relatively easy 2-3 week winter project... with the Admiral doing most of the work (she volunteered)... <sigh>...

-Chris

Definitely get a good quality pull scraper, it will work much better. I would skip what you plan and go straight for the pull scraper alone and add heat from a heat gun (not steam or anything) if needed.

Here is what I mean: https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-Premium.../dp/B000288LP6

The carbide blade makes the difference.

[tdunlap]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I use the Rustoleum Satin White (not Gloss White) and the Flood Penetrol for oil based paint improves flow and gives it a tiny bit more gloss… a smoother, harder finish for easier cleaning.

The Interlux 333 is a brushing thinner. Brightside is okay for gloss surfaces but all those that I have I want Awlgrip on.

Picture is one of the shipments that came in… shows the TotalBoat primer I selected.

You peaked my interest. So you use Rustoleum Satin White and mix a bit of Flood Penetrol to it for your bulkheads and lockers? What ratio? I assume the Rustoleum is oil based. I'm also curious about the Totalboat primer. I have tired for over a year to buy their two part high build primer and it has not been in stock. I sure could use a nice high build, because 545 does not fit that bill. This one part Totalboat primer you mentioned, would you say it is a high build? Can you tell me exactly what it's called? Someone else told me to try the TotalProtect Epoxy Barrier Coat Primer, but that seem a bit of overkill for interior bulkheads. I just need a good, easy to sand high build I can use before I put on the 545. Looking forward to your thoughts. Thanks

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by tdunlap

You peaked my interest. So you use Rustoleum Satin White and mix a bit of Flood Penetrol to it for your bulkheads and lockers? What ratio? I assume the Rustoleum is oil based. I'm also curious about the Totalboat primer. I have tired for over a year to buy their two part high build primer and it has not been in stock. I sure could use a nice high build, because 545 does not fit that bill. This one part Totalboat primer you mentioned, would you say it is a high build? Can you tell me exactly what it's called? Someone else told me to try the TotalProtect Epoxy Barrier Coat Primer, but that seem a bit of overkill for interior bulkheads. I just need a good, easy to sand high build I can use before I put on the 545. Looking forward to your thoughts. Thanks

Think 5% Penetrol added, no thinner at all for rolling. Yes, oil based.

The primer is not high build, it’s a simple one part primer called Topside primer or similar.

For what you are doing, I would sand then add a coat of 545 primer, then sand and fill with a fairing compound like TotalFair or AwlFair. Sand that again and then decide if a second coat of 545 is enough or not. If not, use the Awlgrip High Build Primer. I would sand that and do another coat of 545 after that. I once learned a lesson that I need 5 topcoats to cover if not primed enough

I really like 545 primer even though it’ll kill you if you don’t protect yourself. I roll it and normally use fresh cartridges in the respirator. I would only spray with it in the open air.

Edit: wait, High Build is spray application only. I think Hullguard and AwlQuick can be rolled. Hullguard is medium build.

[Matt Johnson]

Total Protect barrier coat is what Mike, the owner of Totalboat, recommend we use in place of their discontinued high build - we were half way through the boat build when they stopped producing their high build. I've switch to Awlgrip and now Alexseal, but I've used their barrier coat in the past, and it sands just as easy is what their high build did.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Matt Johnson

Total Protect barrier coat is what Mike, the owner of Totalboat, recommend we use in place of their discontinued high build - we were half way through the boat build when they stopped producing their high build. I've switch to Awlgrip and now Alexseal, but I've used their barrier coat in the past, and it sands just as easy is what their high build did.

Yes, I use TotalProtect on bulkheads too… and now that I think about it, it’s pretty high build but not much different than 545 I think… it’s harder though. I think probably when not looking at cost, Awlgrip Hullguard is probably the best first coat and compatible with everything.

[s/v Jedi]

About the topcoat: I tried the TotalBoat WetEdge in flat white and had to return it because it never cured. They were never able to explain it but it was either a problem with the batch or with the flat paint, although I heard complaints about long curing times for the gloss paint as well.

During testing other paints cured rock hard so I had to give up on it.

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

About the topcoat: I tried the TotalBoat WetEdge in flat white and had to return it because it never cured. They were never able to explain it but it was either a problem with the batch or with the flat paint, although I heard complaints about long curing times for the gloss paint as well.

During testing other paints cured rock hard so I had to give up on it.

We painted all the interior of cabinets with Wet Edge and it does take some time to cure. We mix flat and gloss to make a semi-gloss for these areas. But I had similar long cure times with the Rustolum topside paint I used on the last boat. I just figured it was something with the enamel one part paints.

[tdunlap]

Thanks, maybe I'll try the Rustoleum.

I've done quite a bit of painting with Awlgrip.

At the moment I've finished one head and I'm in the middle of the second one. The shower is done on it and I just have the sink/tolet area to do. I used Awlcraft and it came out very nice, except the cabinet doors have a bit of dust in them. I don't know why I can spray in the enclosed head and the walls don't get any dust on them, but when I do the dang cabinet doors can't keep them dust free. I've tried painting them outside in a screened enclosure, which keeps the bugs out, but I somehow still get dust. Oh well.

I've used a few different primers and I haven't liked any. 545 is fine if the surface is free of defects. I've been reluctant to use one of the several high builds in the Awlgrip line. They all have to be sprayed, which I'm OK with, but I'd really like something I could roll on. The TotalBoat 2 part high build got high parse, but it was gone before I could get my hands on any. I can get Awlgrip products at greatly reduced pricing, thank god, so maybe I should give one of their high builds a try. I'm getting close to finishing the difficult painting and reluctant to keep trying more new things. I can suffer though it at this point. The heads sure were a challange but they look really good.

[tdunlap]

Oh the joy of painting, one of my least favorite boat jobs. Ignore the cabinet door ajar, the paint inside the cabinet was still drying.

[Benz]

Originally Posted by tdunlap

Thanks, maybe I'll try the Rustoleum.

I've done quite a bit of painting with Awlgrip.

At the moment I've finished one head and I'm in the middle of the second one. The shower is done on it and I just have the sink/tolet area to do. I used Awlcraft and it came out very nice, except the cabinet doors have a bit of dust in them. I don't know why I can spray in the enclosed head and the walls don't get any dust on them, but when I do the dang cabinet doors can't keep them dust free. I've tried painting them outside in a screened enclosure, which keeps the bugs out, but I somehow still get dust. Oh well.

I've used a few different primers and I haven't liked any. 545 is fine if the surface is free of defects. I've been reluctant to use one of the several high builds in the Awlgrip line. They all have to be sprayed, which I'm OK with, but I'd really like something I could roll on. The TotalBoat 2 part high build got high parse, but it was gone before I could get my hands on any. I can get Awlgrip products at greatly reduced pricing, thank god, so maybe I should give one of their high builds a try. I'm getting close to finishing the difficult painting and reluctant to keep trying more new things. I can suffer though it at this point. The heads sure were a challange but they look really good.

If your surface has defects, and you can get Awlgrip products affordably, why not fair it over with Awl-fair, then 545, then whatever topcoat you want? Putty, IMO, is far better than high-build primers.

[tdunlap]

Originally Posted by Benz

If your surface has defects, and you can get Awlgrip products affordably, why not fair it over with Awl-fair, then 545, then whatever topcoat you want? Putty, IMO, is far better than high-build primers.

That's pretty much what I've been doing. I was just wishing for a magical highbuild that would make fairing easier. I guess there is no free lunch.