interior paint?

[MicHughV]

I've known guys that can put down a coat of paint that looks like glass.

Alas, I'm not one of them, no matter how hard I try, the type of brush I use, (even expensive one's) the finish on my paint jobs clearly speak volumes.

While I was building my boat, I got to know a guy that was rebuilding a 24' stonehorse.
He was a mastercraftsman by trade. When it came time to paint the hull, he patiently waited for the perfect day, little wind, low humidity, etc and proceeded to put down a coat of paint, the likes of which I had never seen. It was as perfect a paint job as I've ever seen. Myself, and others, decreed it to a "masterpiece", yet this guy would eyeball down the hull and see blemishes only he could see and he deemed the paint job a disaster.
Waiting a few days for the paint to dry, he sanded the whole hull back down, and once again, waited for a perfect weather window and once again, another perfect paint job, as perfect as the first. This time, however, he was happy.

It takes that kind of fastidiousness to put down the perfect coat of paint. Mere mortals, such as I, do not possess this skill.

[Americanrancher]

I'm not sure why you want to use house paint? There are marine paints made specifically for this application. Here is a link to Defender with dozens of choices https://defender.com/en_us/catalogse...opside%20paint
I used Brightside on my interior and it has been fantastic, and of course many many colors to choose from.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Americanrancher

I'm not sure why you want to use house paint? There are marine paints made specifically for this application.

I used Brightside on my interior and it has been fantastic, and of course many many colors to choose from.

FWIW, the interior of our boat isn't exactly a "marine" environment.

And if it turns "marine" we've got way more problems than paint.

I don't typically think of wallpaper -- which is what we're replacing -- as a "marine" product either.

-Chris

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by ranger58sb

FWIW, the interior of our boat isn't exactly a "marine" environment.

And if it turns "marine" we've got way more problems than paint.

I don't typically think of wallpaper -- which is what we're replacing -- as a "marine" product either.

-Chris

The inside of a boat is very much a marine environment. Now I do use Rustoleum oil based paint for our interior but I wouldn’t use a Behr wall paint or similar because it just won’t do as well.

[SuW]

As for a perfect finish, we used Interlux Brightside on the interior liner of our boat. We've used their 2-part paints too, but it's awful stuff from the safety POV.

We used a 3 inch roller and tipped with a 2 inch foam brush. It looks great. The secret to a perfect finish is only painting a perfect substrate and thinning more than you think you need to. Test your technique on a small (about 2 feet x 2 feet) square of glass as per Don Casey.

Brightside comes in a limited number of colours, most of which are white/cream variations. We used White for the upper part of our salon and Hatteras White for the lower part and the floor. We used Cream Kiwigrip for the walking areas (it's a good match for Hatteras White).

(I like this paint so much that I now use it inside and outside my house.)

[nrx500]

Petition makes a white, water base paint that is mold and mildew resistant. I painted half a bulkhead with the Petit and left the other half alone. The Petit did no mildew, but the other paint did. Since the Petit is water base, you can probably get a paint store to tint it. Just don't expect them to get the same shade as their color chips show.

[tdunlap]

I understand the complexities of your question, as I went through this myself. I ended up using Awlcraft in the shower. It is easier to spray than Awlgrip. Either are amazing products.

So here is the thing about one part polyurethane paints, they don't like to have water sitting on them. Neither do two parts ones for that mater, but they do tolerate it much better than one part poly paints. I believe the two parts, like Awlgirp and Awlcraft, say a maximum water exposure of 72 hours.

I have seen and experienced paint failure with one part polyurethane (Brightside) when exposed constantly to water.

I think in your shower you want a very hard and durable finish. Gelcoat is great, but it's best used in a mold, and not as a paint. It can be done, but it's not easy to get a good looking finish when using it like a paint without a lot of work. Epoxy paint may work, as may many oil based enamels, but for my money and effort, I don't think you can get a nicer finish than Awlgrip or Awlcraft. I would have preferred Awlgrip as the molecules are much smaller. This makes it a tight and harder surface than Awlcraft, but the latter is so much easier to spray and can be touched up or buffed. Either look stunning. Both clean nicely, and just to be sure of no issues, wiping down and drying the shower after use isn't a bad idea. You don't want water constantly sitting on it day in and day out.

Outside the shower, in the rest of the head, any one part poly, like Brightside, will look and preform well, while being much easier to apply.

If you use Awlgrip or Awlcraft, keep in mind these are products that can cause serious health issues with any exposure. They are best applied with a full face respirator that is supplied by outside air. You should cover all skin as well. Set up an air extraction fan. You don't want to breath it or get it on your skin. This alone is why many would not recommend you to use it below decks. However, either will produce an amazing finish that if taken care of, will last decades.

Although it's not difficult to purchase Awlgrip or Awlcraft, it is meant for professional use only. It is a bit of a chemistry experiment to use. You will be mixing three components and how you do this this depends on the environmental conditions that you will be applying it in. You can roll and tip Awlgrip, but Awlcraft needs to be sprayed, and this means you need the equipment to do that. This is a bit of an investment and a rather steep learning curve.

So what is the bottom line. Well in a shower that is used often, I don't think anything beats a factory gelcoat finish produced in a mold, but Awlgrip followed by Awlcraft, done right, is just about as good. Both can look stunning if you have the skills and equipment to apply it.

Good luck.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by tdunlap

I understand the complexities of your question, as I went through this myself. I ended up using Awlcraft in the shower. It is easier to spray than Awlgrip. Either are amazing products.

So here is the thing about one part polyurethane paints, they don't like to have water sitting on them. Neither do two parts ones for that mater, but they do tolerate it much better than one part poly paints. I believe the two parts, like Awlgirp and Awlcraft, say a maximum water exposure of 72 hours.

I have seen and experienced paint failure with one part polyurethane (Brightside) when exposed constantly to water.

I think in your shower you want a very hard and durable finish. Gelcoat is great, but it's best used in a mold, and not as a paint. It can be done, but it's not easy to get a good looking finish when using it like a paint without a lot of work. Epoxy paint may work, as may many oil based enamels, but for my money and effort, I don't think you can get a nicer finish than Awlgrip or Awlcraft. I would have preferred Awlgrip as the molecules are much smaller. This makes it a tight and harder surface than Awlcraft, but the latter is so much easier to spray and can be touched up or buffed. Either look stunning. Both clean nicely, and just to be sure of no issues, wiping down and drying the shower after use isn't a bad idea. You don't want water constantly sitting on it day in and day out.

Outside the shower, in the rest of the head, any one part poly, like Brightside, will look and preform well, while being much easier to apply.

If you use Awlgrip or Awlcraft, keep in mind these are products that can cause serious health issues with any exposure. They are best applied with a full face respirator that is supplied by outside air. You should cover all skin as well. Set up an air extraction fan. You don't want to breath it or get it on your skin. This alone is why many would not recommend you to use it below decks. However, either will produce an amazing finish that if taken care of, will last decades.

Although it's not difficult to purchase Awlgrip or Awlcraft, it is meant for professional use only. It is a bit of a chemistry experiment to use. You will be mixing three components and how you do this this depends on the environmental conditions that you will be applying it in. You can roll and tip Awlgrip, but Awlcraft needs to be sprayed, and this means you need the equipment to do that. This is a bit of an investment and a rather steep learning curve.

So what is the bottom line. Well in a shower that is used often, I don't think anything beats a factory gelcoat finish produced in a mold, but Awlgrip followed by Awlcraft, done right, is just about as good. Both can look stunning if you have the skills and equipment to apply it.

Good luck.

Exactly. Maybe they hear it when multiple people post this because my comments seem to be lost in the barrage of 1-part paint posts.

[pdx_sailing]

Jedi- your comments are not being lost, nor are any other the others. FWIW I debating between Brightside, Ez-Poxy, or the George Kirby topside for the interior. I am little concerned about the gloss level, being too glossy inside.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by pdx_sailing

Jedi- your comments are not being lost, nor are any other the others. FWIW I debating between Brightside, Ez-Poxy, or the George Kirby topside for the interior. I am little concerned about the gloss level, being too glossy inside.

Have you seen my tests on interior paint?

[s/v Jedi]

Here’s some info from my testing of 1-part paints.

For primer, I found I liked the Totalboat 1-part primer best. It outperformed anything else I tried.

For topcoat I liked Rustoleum best. Brightside is glossier which I didn’t want and it has bubbles when rolling so you must rol and tip with a brush while the Rustoleum only needs rolling.

Easypoxy and Brightside are very comparable.

I next found that one coat of Totalboat primer, sand, one coat of Rustoleum, sand and one finish coat of Rustoleum with a dash of Penetrol added gave the best finish with just a roller. You get a little orange peel effect which is exactly what you want for these interior surfaces that you don’t want to be like a shiny mirror.

[pdx_sailing]

Thank you, those pictures with the reflection is VERY helpful. You are happy with the Rustoleum for common interior areas (not head or galley)?
Is Pentrol and the interlux 333 the same in this context? aka a brushing additive?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by pdx_sailing

Thank you, those pictures with the reflection is VERY helpful. You are happy with the Rustoleum for common interior areas (not head or galley)?
Is Pentrol and the interlux 333 the same in this context? aka a brushing additive?

I use the Rustoleum Satin White (not Gloss White) and the Flood Penetrol for oil based paint improves flow and gives it a tiny bit more gloss… a smoother, harder finish for easier cleaning.

The Interlux 333 is a brushing thinner. Brightside is okay for gloss surfaces but all those that I have I want Awlgrip on.

Picture is one of the shipments that came in… shows the TotalBoat primer I selected.

[capn ken]

Lovely description of a bygone era !

[thomm225]

I used EZ-Poxy Hatteras Off-White Topside Paint when I did my interior painting.

Bulkhead is Ex-Poxy.

Ceiling, settee, counter top are white.