How to get the Helm wheel off of edson pedestal

[althetoolman]

I have an edson pedestal with a standard helm wheel mounted on it

It's never given me any problems, but I need to replace the auto pilot belt on it

I've removed the bolt cover on the end of the wheel, and I've removed the snap ring at the back of the wheel that I thought could have been holding it, but I'm still unable to get the wheel off.

I sprayed some pb blaster as far in as I could get it, and I bent a parts puller trying to get some leverage on it

Does anyone have any suggestions on what else could be holding this thing in?
Any tips for getting it off?



Thanks!

[Searles]

Heat gun ,on max,heat the wheel boss over the key from the fwd side,do not use a flame as this will burn the spray lube and discolour the s/s ,the parallel fit design is a problem especially with s/s they need to be removed and cleaned every couple of years ,even heated you may still need a GOOD puller .⚓️⛵️

[SVQuestOfPaget]

I agree with the heat gun over the wheel boss, or light heat from a small torch if you don't mind polishing out any discoloration.

I just did this on a wheel that hadn't been removed in probably 50 years or more, but bronze wheel boss on a bronze shaft (really early Edson). I had to remove the shaft from the pedestal, which was just as well as the bearings needed to be replaced and decades of old grease removed.

I held the wheel in a padded vise, then used a heavy duty three jaw puller (not the flat plate type) and lots of heat to break the wheel free. Torque the puller screw as much as you can, then use a wooden mallet to wack the shaft from the side - the vibration will help it budge. Torque the screw again, then repeat. It took me an hour to get the wheel off, and there was no way it was going to budge while still mounted on the pedestal.

This is the puller I used: http://https://www.amazon.com/gp/pro...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It also works on propellers and engine flywheels.

[Nekton73]

I was able to remove mine with the already mentioned method of applying tension with a 3 jaw puller and then shocking the wheel with a mallet. I think I used a cut off piece of broom handle to awkwardly apply some shock to the back side of the hub with the puller cranked tight.

You could also try building up the space behind the wheel, between it and the pedestal, with some wood or other material, and then using a wedge to apply some additional pressure. A tool such as a ball joint or tie rod separator (also known as a 'pickle fork') might do the trick. To build up the space you could just take some plywood squares and cut a centre hole the same size as the shaft, then cut out one side so you can slip the ply square over the shaft. Use as many as needed to fill the space.

Combine the wedge pressure with a puller for best effect.

I now remove my wheel at least once per season to make sure it comes free easily and to clean the shaft and hub because if my steering ever fails my emergency tiller, such as it is, is far easier to install and manage with the wheel gone, partly due to the extra space and partly due to eliminating the flywheel effect.

[SunnyIsleMark]

I did mine this spring to add an autopilot and had the same trouble you are.
Give it plenty of PB and let it soak a good while. I tried a few things but what finally worked was getting a GOOD puller on there. The first cheap puller I used did not do the job. The better one got the job done but it was on there tight, never having been removed for years. Put some TefGel on there once you get it off…

[Oceanride007]

Mine is relatively a free fit, but it does get taken off quite regularly, give it a good rub with abrasive paper, when you get it off with Puller, Oh and just last time I did this I lost the plastic nut.

[althetoolman]

I picked up a beefier puller, and I'll try again tomorrow. Still have the heat gun around from the sanitation hose fiasco




thanks all, and I'll keep an eye out for the plastic nut

[Bowdrie]

Been faced with that before.
With back-and-forth communications with Edson, I learned that the part of the shaft that the wheel mounts on is centerless ground to a diameter of .997in. and the wheel hub is bored 1.000, so only .003in. clearance.
What others have said is correct.
A good 3-jaw puller and some heat.
When re-installing wheel make sure that the key is an easy fit in the matching keyways, especially in the top-to-bottom plane.
Make sure the key has no burrs on it and that the edges have a little chamfer on them.
Corrosion in too-tight keyways is an easy source of problems, you should not have to force the hub over the key when re-installing wheel.

[SunnyIsleMark]

Here are a few shots of what to expect. Clean all surfaces well with some mild Emory cloth and add some anti seize for next time. As mentioned, the tolerance is extremely tight but it should slide off and on easily when you are done.Be careful to clean the key and slot, but don’t lose it! Good luck!

[NorthCoastJoe]

I have used what is called a bearing splitter to hold the back of the wheel and a two arm very stout puller, with grade 8 bolts. Using a bearing splitter is better because it cannot slip off or move. Far more stable than the puller's arms.

Lots of PB blaster and frequent hits with a hammer to help it along too

[c.K.]

Originally Posted by Searles

Heat gun ,on max,heat the wheel boss over the key from the fwd side,do not use a flame as this will burn the spray lube and discolour the s/s ,the parallel fit design is a problem especially with s/s they need to be removed and cleaned every couple of years ,even heated you may still need a GOOD puller .⚓️⛵️

And for next time Use some anti seeze grease ( spelled that incorrectly)