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Cadence · 14-10-2015, 10:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dougtiff

I use a PIPE wrench, the right size [handle] works very well also if the Bronze thru-hull is good[scrape down to metal] if it's not Yellow, but Bronze color, i would leave it, as the junk coming out of China[Bronze] is not the quality that was produced here, also Bronze doesn't get brittle, i have pulled Bronze keel bolts that were 50 year's old and as good as the day they were put in.

Apparently you have never tapped an old bronze through hull. Keel bolts are not exposed to the water. Know the color seems helpful. I will bet the pink ones shatter.

goat · 14-10-2015, 10:36

Don't confuse brass and bronze. Brass has been used in many newer boats and lasts between two and five years then fails dramatically. Bronze can last decades.
Usual caveat; advice worth price paid.

goat

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basssears · 14-10-2015, 10:58

Yeah, the more I think about it, it seems that if I am going to go through all the effort to replace/upgrade the sea valves I might as well take the final (sleep well at night) step and replace the through hull fittings.

Reasons I think they're glassed in are two fold... one, there's no mushroom head or anything on the outside of the hull:

Combined with this blog posting from an owner of another 1988 Gulf 32 who describes his through hull fittings as being glassed in:

(Full blog posting here: Stories of Aeolus- Our Gulf 32 Pilothouse: Replaced Thru-Hulls and Seacocks-Down the rabbit hole )

-- Bass

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cadence

Just as a SWAG, I doubt the bronze through hull is glassed in. At 27 years I would hazard a guess it is replacement time. I assume it is electrolysis but they can get brittle with age. From your pics I would have a concern about the single hose clamp and for that matter that hose type?

Pedersen · 14-10-2015, 11:26

The photo I posted was showing a shattered bronze through hull! Bronze can absolutely get brittle.

Cadence · 14-10-2015, 12:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedersen

The photo I posted was showing a shattered bronze through hull! Bronze can absolutely get brittle.

It seems you and I agree on that. Shatters like a piece of glass.

basssears · 14-10-2015, 12:43

So that begs the question, does brittle bronze eventually just spontaneously fail or is it usually the result of some sort of blow to it, twist of a wrench etc? I won't be able to take on my through hull project for a few months trying to gauge how much risk I am under of catastrophic through hull failure...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedersen

The photo I posted was showing a shattered bronze through hull! Bronze can absolutely get brittle.

Cadence · 14-10-2015, 12:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by basssears

So that begs the question, does brittle bronze eventually just spontaneously fail or is it usually the result of some sort of blow to it, twist of a wrench etc? I won't be able to take on my through hull project for a few months trying to gauge how much risk I am under of catastrophic through hull failure...

Don't worry about it, It takes a blow or a wrench. It's not going to go by it self. I wouldn't get paranoid but it is probably replacement time,

Pedersen · 14-10-2015, 14:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by basssears

So that begs the question, does brittle bronze eventually just spontaneously fail or is it usually the result of some sort of blow to it, twist of a wrench etc? I won't be able to take on my through hull project for a few months trying to gauge how much risk I am under of catastrophic through hull failure...

I don't think it's as bad as spontaneous failure but it can shatter as a result of blows, twists and the likes. If it shows pink you really must replace it.
It seems there is a general consensus on this matter!

basssears · 14-10-2015, 19:31

Ahh yes, being focused on the through hull fittings themselves I forgot to reply to the other part of this post... yes, lots of single clamped hoses on this particular boat (and single clamped bellows on PSS drip less shaft seal), will be one of the first things done.

As far as the hose, I don't really know what it is, just know it's not right... the whole head setup stinks a bit, assuming it as as everyone else says and it's the hoses not the tank... if you rub a rag on the hoses and then smell it the rag smells like, well, poop!

Another interesting note the surveyor made was that the ribs in this particular style hose make it harder than normal to get a good seal with a hose clamp... subjecting you to more potential stinking and, ahh, flooding...

-- Bass

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cadence

From your pics I would have a concern about the single hose clamp and for that matter that hose type?

jamhass · 15-10-2015, 19:03

Why not just go ahead and do it right by replacing these weak globe (or ball) valves with proper seacocks? The seacock design ensures that any lateral loads are taken by the seacock and its attachment, NOT the fragile thru-hull. The cost difference is quite marginal, especially considering the risks involved.

I mount my seacocks be taking a 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick piece of prefab fiberglass, and using this in place of the more common plywood. I drill, tap and countersink bronze screws thru this backing place, and fit the backing to the hull with epoxy. If the hull is strongly curved, some sanding/grinding of the backing plate may be necessary to match the hull. Then bore the hole through the hull (for a new instal) or make sure the thru-hull hole lines up with the backing before gluing. The seacock now has convenient mounting studs and the thru-hull fits and beds nicely.