Gluing aluminum to aluminum or just about anything else

[valhalla360]

It was steel not aluminium but I had an old pickup where the wheel wells were rusted out. Online I bought some matching panels that overlaid part of the body and they recommended a glue (came in a caulk style tube).

After cutting out all the rust, cleaned and dewaxed the surface (never bothered removing the paint) and they stuck on (a bit tricky clamping). It's not the prettiest fix (my skills not the materials) but a lot better than a 2ft rust hole.

Just saw the guy I eventually sold the truck to and they are still holding and solid after 4 winters in Michigan salt conditions.

I'm betting if you check with Ford, they have something as they switched to aluminum body panels.

[sails4fun]

The best product I have found is Total Tech. It is an all in one adhesive and sealant - bonds to aluminum, ABS, PVC, fiberglass, polycarbonate, foam, glass, steel and more. Works underwater and has 430 pound sheer strength. It comes in clear and white, tube and cartridges. It is from the Original Super Glue Company.

[swordds]

Several YouTube test comparisons seem to show Loctite PL 8X to be the best in class (I have no affiliation). I generally prefer Loctite and 3M adhesives over other brands (JMO)

[tdgaffney]

I am just getting ready to glue four layers of aluminum sheet together (straps to gimbal my new microwave - see attachment) and was intending to use 3M 5200 adhesive. The aluminum is 0.050 6061-T6 sheet, the size of the bond area being 3in x 4in at the gimbal attachment (the strapping is longer).


My "process" is to dry fit all parts, then clean and acetone wash/wipe the mating surfaces, then immediately apply 5200, spread with a spatula, and then clamp parts in a vise (3/4 plywood to assist in clamping) and wait a week.


BUT - None of the previous posts mention the 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive
(Hey - If it says "Marine" it must be great!).


Is there something I should know?
Your comments?
tom

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by tdgaffney

Attachment 217723


I am just getting ready to glue four layers of aluminum sheet together (straps to gimbal my new microwave - see attachment) and was intending to use 3M 5200 adhesive. The aluminum is 0.050 6061-T6 sheet, the size of the bond area being 3in x 4in at the gimbal attachment (the strapping is longer).


My "process" is to dry fit all parts, then clean and acetone wash/wipe the mating surfaces, then immediately apply 5200, spread with a spatula, and then clamp parts in a vise (3/4 plywood to assist in clamping) and wait a week.


BUT - None of the previous posts mention the 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive
(Hey - If it says "Marine" it must be great!).


Is there something I should know?
Your comments?
tom

5200 works well with prepped aluminum, but its flaw is that it takes forever to cure.

For your application, I'd just epoxy the prepped (scuff sanded) pieces together... the bond will not fail with this use.

Matt

[Sand crab]

Tdgaffney, the Fuze It should do the job. I sanded the mating surfaces and wiped the dust off and then glued it right away. It sets in about 4 to 6 hours. I'm not saying it's the best muckeypuckey ever just that it works pretty damn good. $8 at Home Depot.

[ejjawhite]

Liquid Nails FuseIt. $6.97 US on Amazon for a full size tube. That’s worth a try my friends...

[a64pilot]

5200 has adhesive properties, but it’s a sealant, not an adhesive.
For use as an adhesive there are better products out there. Although I’ll admit to using 5200 as an adhesive myself on occasion.

For aluminum it depends on which aluminum, but I prefer mechanical fasteners “rivets” to bonding myself.
Some grades of aluminum can’t be welded very well, but those that can be, welding is a viable option.

[model 10]

[QUOTE=a64pilot;

For aluminum it depends on which aluminum, but I prefer mechanical fasteners “rivets” to bonding myself.


High performance aircraft have been using bonded control surfaces for a long time.

[ThoFre97]

Originally Posted by Gaia

Teflon, polytetrafluroethylene, can be glued to but if is difficult. What is done is one removes the fluorine atoms from the surface using very reactive Na, sodium atoms. The liquid containing them is blue and must be used with great caution as it is very reactive.. White TFE thus treated turns brown or black as upon removal of the F surface atoms one is left with a carbon rich surface. That surface can be glued to.with many adhesives. I have no idea where one obtains this stuff. Years ago I had occasion to use it at work but I do not remember if we made it or bought it.

Jim SV GAIA

What he said. Companies that make coils used as electromagnets often use PTFE- or PFA-based electrical insulation on the lead wires going to and from the coil winding(s).The surface of the PTFE insulation is “etched” as described above using some very toxic stuff that I think might be related to hydrofluoric acid. Then they “pot“ the coil assembly and lead wires together using “potting compound“ (epoxy-based in my experience) from companies like Hysol and Stycast. This provides a totally hermetic seal that can survive extreme thermal cycles. Next time you ride on a commercial airplane, know that this technology protects some tiny, delicate coils that are in the chain of command to the primary flight controls (rudder, elevator, and ailerons).

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Ecos

High performance aircraft have been using bonded control surfaces for a long time.

And riveted ones for even longer, bonding works and has its limitations and is most often a bear to repair.
There are some aircraft that have few rivers, the little Grumman airplanes for instance.
I just don’t trust bonding as well is all, and I’ve been involved with a LOT of disbond repairs. Main Rotor blades and many elastomeric bearings.

But for non critical items on a boat, sure use 5200 or maybe liquid nails or whatever works, if it fails, clean if off and try something different.

[model 10]

[QUOTE=a64pilot;3168527]And riveted ones for even longer,


Right now I am re covering the flight controls of my 1940 Stinson with Dacron (Stitts) and some rib lacing, no bonding, no rivets. You could use this same fabric cement to make super bueno repairs to boat sails etc.

[s/v Jedi]

3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is a one-component, high-strength, moisture-curing, gap-filling polyurethane for permanent bonding of wood, gelcoat and fiberglass. It cures to form a firm, rubbery, waterproof seal on joints and boat hardware, above and below the waterline. This product has been trusted throughout the marine industry for over 50 years.

Seems primary function is bonding, secondary sealing. The difference is the word “adhesive” in front of “sealant” plus the description that follows.

[tazziboy7]

Originally Posted by Ramona

JB weld is particularly good for aluminium engine parts.

Absolutely sealed up a Yamaha 750 Special engine that was leaking at both the top and bottom of the cyclynder sleeve to the tune of about a quart of oil per 200 miles.
Back then it was every other day. Filled in around the seams let it sit for a day and a half.
Ram it another 2000-2500 miles then sold it.
JB weld rock solid under heat cold oil rain and RC cola 😬 👍🤙

[NorthernMac]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

The little Grumman aircraft were held together with adhesives as opposed to rivets. It was called Hysol which I believe is a form of epoxy.
Bonding as it’s called it very attractive from a manufacturing standpoint.

That was mostly only used on the trailing edge of the skins for the ailerons and flaps, and there were common delam issues, as fletch air and their glue sales can testify to.