Fixing Stripped Screws in Wood

[Falbala60]

Originally Posted by fallingeggs

Thanks all. Never even considered shoving sticks in the holes. Will be on the lookout for correctly sized toothpicks or the like.

GOLF TEE !!!!

[thruska]

I’m not even going to finish reading this whole thread.
But,
I do suggest dipping the screw threads in gorilla glue, don’t strip it worse when installing. It will secure it, but pay attention to the expansion of glue from the flush finish. Be careful while wiping it it off , or you will make a mess of it. Or let it dry and remove it later. The longer you wait the more difficult to remove imho.
It does sand of if need be. Read the ingredients so you know what your working with....
Oh if there’s nothing in the hole to hold the screw, toothpicks or wood matchsticks, then gorilla glue on threads....
Interior application is great. Exterior, the hv will attack it eventually.
I have used it for exterior extensively and quite satisfied on rvs. BUT I do NOT recommend on boat exterior or interior structural. Normally I say it doesn’t belong on a boat, but I have made compromises
Good luck..

[Sailorbob8599]

Originally Posted by jmschmidt

You got good responses here from everyone. I've used splinters, tooth picks (which are made of hard woods) chopsticks, matches, etc. all with a one-part waterproof wood glue. For stripped out woodscrew holes more that 1/8 inch or so I glue in the above wooden items, then re-drill with a precision bit (Forestner) designed for the installation of teak plugs (the smallest diameter that will cover the problem). I have a selection of plug cutters and make teak plugs from scrap teak by the hundreds. A lot cheaper than West Marine. I found that teak, being a mildly hard wood, works best and it will give a nice tight seal that can be varnished or paint over.

+1 for a proper repair. This is the way I repair a stripped hole also.

[thinwater]

If a little more structural and sometimes a through bolt is not an option), and specifically for cored bulkheads...


Drill the hole, remove some core with your favorite method (I like a notched roofing nail), and then fill it by poking in small trips of epoxy-wetted fiberglass cloth. Just poke in ~ 1/2" x 4" strips with a skewer.

• Filling holes on vertical surfaces with epoxy is murder--it runs out--but the fiberglass cloth holds it. Certainly long enough to slap a bit of masking tape on the hole until it cures. Very neat.
• Much stronger, since the threads will be biting in glass.
• The plug won't crack. It's reinforced.
• If the surface is horizontal, filling the hole and then adding the cloth is easier.

It's actually faster than messing with trying to keep the epoxy in a vertical surface, and you can work through a small hole, keeping the laminate in place. Also good for worn pivot holes (rudders and the like) because it is a fiberglass reinforced plug.

[Cadence]

Did anyone read the OP. He was just looking at non structural screws holding up a headliner and alike. I'd bore a big oversize hole and use a grade 8 bolt? :-)

[davewtsnape]

Use rawlplugs if you can get one small enough

[brianbrown3373]

First, liquid nails or some other epoxy works really well in this situation. Also, use painters tape ANYTIME you work with caulk or liquid nails. Caulk your bathroom at home by using painters tape first and you'll get a perfectly straight bead. Also, when I caulk my gun rails, I use painters tape. So round or straight, use painters tape and you won't have to worry about making a mess. I would also tend to agree that using a bolt and nut would work better.

[rwlh1950]

Same as above, a match (or more than one) cut off the ignition bit or toothpick. If you like you can add some PVA glue if it's still a bugger to keep them in place.

[ddugger]

I've used toothpicks and 5min. epoxy, but you also have to consider the type and density of wood you want the screw to hold in. If it's a light density would like pine, fir or cedar then the tooth pick(s) is a good choice. (they are tapered so you know they get to the bottom of the hole and by driving more into the hole fill it almost completely.

However, if you re-screwing teak or oak or some other hard wood, it would be a good idea to use the same kind of wood for your fill splinters. Otherwise, the screw will only compress, crush and cut the softer wood(s) fibers against the surrounding hard wood and even with 5 min. epoxy may be weaker than you want.

[BobMc]

I've been using the toothpick "fix" for years on screw holes that get too large in a dry area (like inside the saloon). Easiest (using round or flat toothpicks) is to simply stick it in the hole as far as they will go and then break it off flush with the surface. I actually prefer the flat style of toothpick as I think it presents more surface area for the screw threads. Use a second (or even a third) if the hole is really reamed out.

[scienceguy]

here's a trick I learned recently and it works great without all the glue and fuss.
Simply insert a piece (or three) of the tail end of zip ties. Holds the screws well.

[sailorladd]

I usually remove the screw and, taking a camping match (the larger than normal matches) I would break it in half and inserting the broken side into the stripped hole, I would use:thumb a hammer and gently tap in the match until it went no further, then bend the remaining piece of match side to side and back and forth, and it will break of level with the hole sides, now screw in that pesky screw!

[jebref]

I agree with all of the toothpick suggestions - that is what I have used.

What about the same issue as this only for gel coat/fiberglass? I have some fastener holes for shade covers on my transom that the screws won't hold any more.

If I should start a new thread for this, let me know.

Thanks

[Sojurnr]

Originally Posted by sailorladd

I usually remove the screw and, taking a camping match (the larger than normal matches) I would break it in half and inserting the broken side into the stripped hole, I would use:thumb a hammer and gently tap in the match until it went no further, then bend the remaining piece of match side to side and back and forth, and it will break of level with the hole sides, now screw in that pesky screw!

Which side of the match is the unbroken side?
��

[mebucko]

I like to use a 1/8 inch mahogany dowell. easy to drill and glue in place. It's hardwood properties are less apt to strip out like softwoods.