Countersink molding screws ?

[SvenG]

How do you countersink and plug screws in molding that is only 3/8" thick ?



There isn't much material to work with.



-Sven

[mike d.]

very carefully! where those peices aren't or should not be under stress i would use a forstner bit and matching plug cutter. they bits can be had with depth control collars. the only prob. i see with what you have is the concave surface piece which will cause the collar to make contact and possible burn marks on either side of hole. to stop this from happening you could try putting a piece of teflon tape on the contact surface with the wood

[cabo_sailor]

It looks like you would only need a screw/bung in the two ends of each piece so curvature would not be a problem. I have a spiffy little set of pilot drills that I got from Traditional Wood Worker that drill the hole for the screw, counter sink for the bung, and have depth settings. With the kit are the appropriate sized plug cutters for the bungs.

Here's a link with photo

15 Piece Taper Drill and Countersink Set in Wooden Box-Traditional Woodworker

Rich

[SvenG]

Rich,

Originally Posted by cabo_sailor

drill the hole for the screw, counter sink for the bung, and have depth settings.

Are the collars (?) in the lower right of the picture the depth stops for the counter sinking ? Do they have allan screws or something to tighten them at the right depth ?

I actually have all the parts in the kit except the collars. It wouldn't be that hard to make some.

Thanks,



-Sven

[Sand crab]

I've been a builder for 39 years so I'll present my opinion. It is extremely difficult to countersink and then plug wood that is only 3/8" thick. By the time you are deep enough to set a plug the screw is almost all the way through the bottom of the wood. Extremely thin plugs don't hold that well because they are mostly gripping the metal screw instead of the wood counterbore which is what they are designed to do. How about trim head finish screws instead. Predrill just slightly over size of the shank but smaller than the head and then putty. You could whittle a very tiny plug for these as well which is pretty easy. Option B would be to just glue and clamp. Contruction adhesive works good for this. Be especially carefull about glue squeeze out because it will fill the grain of the wood and will be extremely hard to remove if allowed to dry. A wet rag while the glue is still wet works well. Bob

[Cotemar]

I am with Sand crab on this one. I have always glued those on.

[cabo_sailor]

Upon reflection, I too would concur with Sand crab and Cotemar. There just isn't enough wood to countersink.

As to the question on the pilot drills. Each bit has a depth gage to control how deep the bit goes. An allen screw controls that. The parts you refer to are called stop collars and they control how deep the countersink goes, i.e. how deep the hole for the bung. They are simple collars that slide over the depth gage and are also held in place with another allen screw.

Rich

[PAR]

Sand Crab is correct, though the usual solutions that haven't been mentioned are a cut veneer disk or a straight up filler (bees wax and rosin or something harder).

[Jesse]

There is nothing unattractive about leaving the fasteners exposed. Phillips or allen drive panhead screws in stainless or bronze with or without dress washers look nice and allow the removal of the trim for maintainance or replacement.

[Pblais]

Phillips or allen drive panhead screws in stainless or bronze with or without dress washers look nice and allow the removal of the trim for maintenance or replacement.

As long as it looks like you had to mean it, no one will complain - and get away with it.

I like the idea that you could remove it. You can always say you have plans. We all do.