Best practices for bedding traveler track?

[mrybas]

T tracks attached to decks always seem have problems with corrosion where the stainless bolts passing through the AL track. Besides putting some tefgel on the bolts where they contact the t track, are there any other suggestions?
What if there was a small spacer under the t track that allowed water to drain away from the track? Maybe nylon washers on the bolts between the track and deck?

[rognvald]

M,
The SS/Aluminum contact would cause oxidation/crevice corrosion, not rust. Perhaps what you are seeing is a saturated deck core that is discoloring the bolts. Before I would do anything drastic, I would remove a couple of the worst looking bolts and check the core material in the deck for dryness with a straight dental pick. If your bolt is wet when it is removed and there is core material on the pick . . . there's the rub. Personally, I don't think your idea for washers is a good one since it would change your contact surface to a series of "micro mounts" rather than a monocoque construction. I hope this helps . . . best, Rognvald

[mrybas]

Originally Posted by rognvald

M,

The SS/Aluminum contact would cause oxidation/crevice corrosion, not rust. Perhaps what you are seeing is a saturated deck core that is discoloring the bolts. Before I would do anything drastic, I would remove a couple of the worst looking bolts and check the core material in the deck for dryness with a straight dental pick. If your bolt is wet when it is removed and there is core material on the pick . . . there's the rub. Personally, I don't think your idea for washers is a good one since it would change your contact surface to a series of "micro mounts" rather than a monocoque construction. I hope this helps . . . best, Rognvald

I’m talking about dissimilar metal corrosion.

[Suijin]

My tracks were bedded 32 years ago with 5200. There's no corrosion, at least that I can see, and no leaking. Based on what I've seen with how Valiant bedded the rest of the deck hardware, they coated the bolts and heads (as well as the whole foot of the track) with 5200 before inserting and tightening down. Done properly, 5200 or I suppose 4000uv, provides a good barrier between stainless and aluminum. The key is to keep water and air out from between the two metals.

Tea-Gel does the same thing. While it has some corrosion inhibiting additives, it basically keeps saltwater and air from getting between metals. That's why the recommendation is always to apply liberally.

[rognvald]

"The key is to keep water and air out from between the two metals." Suijin


Yes. If it were my boat myrbas, I would pull the entire track and see what is actually happening. You're only guessing at this point and it is obvious some recon is needed. Send us some pix once it's dismantled. Good luck . . .Rognvald

[bobfnbw]

Tuff gel on the bolts to isolate them from the aluminum, plus butyl tape to seal the core from water intrusion would be my guess. I don't like the idea of using 5200 for that... to permanent a solution. To me that is only good for hull to deck joints and the like, things that should never be undone.

[foufou]

There exist small fiberglass bushings that totally isolate the bolts from the track. Not certain where I got them as it was ten years ago. But some local building supply or hardware store. Good luck

[MerryBee]

+1 on the bed-it butyl tape! Our Morgan 28 has 1/4" s/s bolts through the aluminum T-track, through a teak toerail then finally through the fiberglass deck. We removed them a few years ago in order to resolve leaks into the quarterberths. We like the butyl rubber because it allows some movement without breaking the seal.
Following Mainesail's advice, we put a little string of butyl tape under the head of each bolt before inserting it into the T-track, then held the head of the bolt still while tightening the nut from below to keep the butyl from twisting out. A strip of tape between the teak and the deck insures nothing gets inside.
BTW, is that pic from your T-track? We saw no corrosion at all when we disassembled ours and it had been leaking water for years...

[billgewater]

Some suppliers will provide plastic (nylon/fibreglass) inserts that fit under machine bolts heads. They really do work well. Mine are 40 years old and are still as new. Bedding down onto a smooth deck and pre-filling the deck holes with waterproofing epoxy is also a good idea just in case any water migrates under the track.

[mrybas]

Originally Posted by MerryBee

+1 on the bed-it butyl tape! Our Morgan 28 has 1/4" s/s bolts through the aluminum T-track, through a teak toerail then finally through the fiberglass deck. We removed them a few years ago in order to resolve leaks into the quarterberths. We like the butyl rubber because it allows some movement without breaking the seal.
Following Mainesail's advice, we put a little string of butyl tape under the head of each bolt before inserting it into the T-track, then held the head of the bolt still while tightening the nut from below to keep the butyl from twisting out. A strip of tape between the teak and the deck insures nothing gets inside.
BTW, is that pic from your T-track? We saw no corrosion at all when we disassembled ours and it had been leaking water for years...

Yes, that is a pic of my t track.