Add gate to stern rail?

[basssears]

The pushpit around our cockpit on our 1988 Gulf 32 has two rails (like most) except across the span where the stern swim ladder is... in this spot there is just the single top rail, presumably to make accessing the ladder easier.

BUT... that top rail is fixed so you still have to either climb over it (a bit precarious) or crawl under it (precarious as well, and I'm 6'5" so that ain't happenin'!). What I'd like to find (if it exists) is a way to adapt that solid top rail into an opening gate.

I'm thinking this could be easy if I could find the right "adapters" for my 1" tubing... cut the existing bar out, add a hinged adapter on one end that connects two pieces of 1" tubing (the stub left on the rest of the pushpit and the bar I just cut out), add a gate adapter on the other end that connects the other end of the bar I cut out to the stub on the other side of the pushpit and then I would have a gate.

Two potential problems... 1) I can't seem to find something like this and 2) would cutting that bar out somehow weaken the whole pushpit? Would I need to add two additional stanchions across that span?

Picture of the current setup is attached, any input much appreciated.

-- Bass

[luckychucky]

I am sure you can do anything you want but you just have to pay for it. Here is a photo of mine with lifeline cable for the gate that also weaves through the stern ladder to hold it up.

[StuM]

I certainly wouldn't cut that rail without putting additional stanchions on either side of the step-through. And they need to be well braced fore/aft because people will use them to pull themselves up the swim ladder.

Having cut the rail and installed new stanchions, I'd probably just use wire and pelican hook to bridge the new gap.

[i3.friend]

I will be doing the same with a wire gate or a pre bent stainless tube with a pull pin.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by StuM

I certainly wouldn't cut that rail without putting additional stanchions on either side of the step-through. And they need to be well braced fore/aft because people will use them to pull themselves up the swim ladder.

Having cut the rail and installed new stanchions, I'd probably just use wire and pelican hook to bridge the new gap.

Very good advice! Only place I'd diverge would be to use Dyneema instead of wire for the "gate", and make it two levels like the rest of the pulpit.

Jim

[basssears]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Very good advice! Only place I'd diverge would be to use Dyneema instead of wire for the "gate", and make it two levels like the rest of the pulpit.Jim

Thanks Jim, that's a great reminder, it would be nice to have a little more protection back there.

How do people "brace" their stanchions? I'm assuming these are through bolted not screwed (not near the boat right now), but other than making sure they're well bolted and well backed how else can you brace a stanchion?

-- Bass

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by StuM

I certainly wouldn't cut that rail without putting additional stanchions on either side of the step-through. And they need to be well braced fore/aft because people will use them to pull themselves up the swim ladder...

This. And the strain from all the lifelines is taken up by that rail. You will lose a lot of strength/stiffness by cutting out the center section.

[jimbunyard]

That's a nice welded rail, don't mess it up with set screw fittings.

Get a good welder to cut it and make an addition something like pictured below, where strength is added by the inclusion of handholds for accessing from different deck heights...just a suggestion of course.

I too like the idea of a cable (or stainless chain) entry...

[accomplice]

My previous boat had a swim ladder which hinged on the transom and when pivoted upright, formed the gate. I appreciated the elegance in a design which re-used components and also, in retrospect, made it harder to sail off with the swim ladder still down.

[basssears]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

That's a nice welded rail, don't mess it up with set screw fittings.

Get a good welder to cut it and make an addition something like pictured below, where strength is added by the inclusion of handholds for accessing from different deck heights...just a suggestion of course.

I too like the idea of a cable (or stainless chain) entry...

Wow, looks good... so you've already completed that project on the boat for me? How did you get my gate code?

Seriously, I like it, seems like a good plan. Have not had any welding work done yet, is that something people can bring a generator powered welder and do on the boat or would I have to disassemble and take to a shop?

-- Bass

[basssears]

Originally Posted by accomplice

My previous boat had a swim ladder which hinged on the transom and when pivoted upright, formed the gate. I appreciated the elegance in a design which re-used components and also, in retrospect, made it harder to sail off with the swim ladder still down.

Thanks for the reminder, I'd forgotten, the picture I posted was when we first had the boat before I'd reattached the original swim ladder, which does provide a more secure gate through there when the ladder is up. So I don't actually have to worry that much about a gate across there when underway, just have to get that bar out of the way.

-- Bass

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by basssears

Wow, looks good... so you've already completed that project on the boat for me? How did you get my gate code?

Seriously, I like it, seems like a good plan. Have not had any welding work done yet, is that something people can bring a generator powered welder and do on the boat or would I have to disassemble and take to a shop?

-- Bass

Yeah those virtual tools make every job quick and easy...

A good welder with a well very equipped truck and knowledge could probably do it on site, but I know I would rather do it in the comfort of the shop; I can make a lot better welds when I have good access and angles to weld at.

Ideally I guess I would bend, fit and maybe tack the pieces in situ and then bring them to the shop for finish welding and polishing, but it really depends on what the final evolution of the design turns out to be. For instance, just thinking about it I already revised the plan for ease of execution and increased strength, as shown on the starboard side below, though I like the way the port side looks better. That three-way port side joint would be a bear to do correctly, though if it were it would sure look nice...plus you have to have an eye or some sort of attachment for the closure there too.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

Yeah those virtual tools make every job quick and easy...

A good welder with a well very equipped truck and knowledge could probably do it on site, but I know I would rather do it in the comfort of the shop; I can make a lot better welds when I have good access and angles to weld at.

Ideally I guess I would bend, fit and maybe tack the pieces in situ and then bring them to the shop for finish welding and polishing, but it really depends on what the final evolution of the design turns out to be. For instance, just thinking about it I already revised the plan for ease of execution and increased strength, as shown on the starboard side below, though I like the way the port side looks better. That three-way port side joint would be a bear to do correctly, though if it were it would sure look nice...plus you have to have an eye or some sort of attachment for the closure there too.

Clever dick !! in the nicest possible way.

[markpierce]

Works for me.