Volvo Penta 2002 "A" or "B"

[mcswain29]

After having the nozzles ground once on my injectors (and having some spare injector bodies on the bench) I am going to remanufacture a spare/replacement pair with new nozzles from parts4engines

Engine is circa 1984-1985

They list a nozzle for 2000 series A/AG and B/BG. I've never heard such a differentiation in any other of my quests for parts

Anybody out there know the difference between the 2000 series A's and the B's?

I'm usually a pretty good interweb bloodhound, but this is confounding me a bit and hopefully somebody who would have been working on these engines in their hayday might be able to steer me right

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by mcswain29

After having the nozzles ground once on my injectors (and having some spare injector bodies on the bench) I am going to remanufacture a spare/replacement pair with new nozzles from parts4engines



Engine is circa 1984-1985



They list a nozzle for 2000 series A/AG and B/BG. I've never heard such a differentiation in any other of my quests for parts



Anybody out there know the difference between the 2000 series A's and the B's?



I'm usually a pretty good interweb bloodhound, but this is confounding me a bit and hopefully somebody who would have been working on these engines in their hayday might be able to steer me right

I had a browse through the service manual and there’s no differentiation between any of the 2001 series, all have 150° spray angle and 180-190 Kl/cm2 .....oops , the 2003T has a higher pop pressure, 204-212. Maybe ask Parts4engines for an explanation.

[deblen]

Have a look thru the 2000 series parts manuals here.
The non-letter & A series tend to be earlier serial numbers(earlier production years)
In the parts manual,there will be a separate page(SIDA-Swedish) for each group of components for each letter (none,A,B) for each model(2001,2002,2003,2003Turbo)
You would have to compare volvo original & volvo replacement part numbers for injectors in each 2001,2002,2003 model.
The injectors are actually made by Bosch & have a Bosch number stamped.
Hope this helps
Cheers/Len
https://www.marinepartsexpress.com/V...?dir=DIESEL%2F
Fuel System https://www.marinepartsexpress.com/V...03%2C+2003T%2F

[mcswain29]

Originally Posted by deblen

Have a look thru the 2000 series parts manuals here.
The non-letter & A series tend to be earlier serial numbers(earlier production years)


The injectors are actually made by Bosch & have a Bosch number stamped.
Hope this helps
Cheers/Len

Yes this is what I have come to believe as well that the earlier engines were not letter designated. Safe enough to assume that my 1985 production boat has an "earlier" engine I think. Injector bodies are all the same type #'s (Bosch KBAL 65 P 9/4) but there are a few variations of the nozzle.

Seeing as I was in grade school when these green devils* were in their production days, I was just wondering if there was anybody who would have been involved/invested in the industry back then might remember the differences

*I actually don't mind my VP2002 considering the amount of dislike that the series has gotten over the years. They have their quirks (what mfgr doesnt?) but properly maintained it's a fine little beast.

[deblen]

Here are some pages from the intro to my paper parts catalog,detailing how to decipher it that may be of interest.
EDIT: I forgot to upload the pages & will post them separately.



I have a 2003 (1984) with <2200 hrs. I removed the head & had the valves ground at about 20xx hrs because of hard starting/lo compression.These old birds are only 16:1 new. Diesel fuel needs about 15:1 (I believe) to fire. Any lowering of compression is quickly noticeable.
Other than the usual wear & tear external items,it has worked fine. I will say that the copper tube/seal ring plumbing is tricky,but I have learned by trial & many errors,in what order the pipes must be installed. You also have to thoroughly clean to bare metal the pipe ends and sockets that they go in with a wire battery brush,and use all new,or nearly new(soft & flexible) Volvo seals on each joint.Lube the seals,pipe & sockets lightly with vaseline,lanoline,or other rubber safe grease of your choice.Do not use silicone or any other glue/sealant.
Cheers/Len

[deblen]

Volvo Parts catalog intro pages
Volvo .pdf

Volvo 1.pdf

Volvo 2.pdf

Volvo 3.pdf

[mcswain29]

Originally Posted by deblen

Here are some pages from the intro to my paper parts catalog,detailing how to decipher it that may be of interest.
EDIT: I forgot to upload the pages & will post them separately.



I have a 2003 (1984) with <2200 hrs. I removed the head & had the valves ground at about 20xx hrs because of hard starting/lo compression.These old birds are only 16:1 new. Diesel fuel needs about 15:1 (I believe) to fire. Any lowering of compression is quickly noticeable.
Other than the usual wear & tear external items,it has worked fine. I will say that the copper tube/seal ring plumbing is tricky,but I have learned by trial & many errors,in what order the pipes must be installed. You also have to thoroughly clean to bare metal the pipe ends and sockets that they go in with a wire battery brush,and use all new,or nearly new(soft & flexible) Volvo seals on each joint.Lube the seals,pipe & sockets lightly with vaseline,lanoline,or other rubber safe grease of your choice.Do not use silicone or any other glue/sealant.
Cheers/Len

Yes the volvo pipe seals are a bit finicky and not to be reused. I ended up down the rabbit hole of "repair or replace" cylinder head - to deal with some previous owner and/or their mechanic's sins and I could not find anybody that was willing to stand behind their ability to weld this mess back up (cast iron) so I did it by my onesome. I was doing the post machining myself regardless... Helicoils for the t-stat bolts instead of blind holes in cast iron . 7 years later still trouble-free... More budget friendly than a repower