Suzuki DF 9.9 runs then not

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by lestersails

Great suggestion. But I am $crewed because I am a Mac user! Looks like these are Windows only. If I had a PC, that widget would be great to have for a lot of reasons, but I can't justify buying a PC just for that!

Did the red lite come on?
And did you have a good stream out the telltale spout?
As mentioned it could have gone into limp mode.
Overheat will cause this.
Boatyarddog

[lestersails]

Originally Posted by Boatyarddog

Did the red lite come on?
And did you have a good stream out the telltale spout?
As mentioned it could have gone into limp mode.
Overheat will cause this.
Boatyarddog

Thanks BYD. The red light was flashing one flash right when it started and it kept doing this. I do not have a manual and my guess was that that meant it needed service? Since I did the service myself, I don't know how to reset the service light. Apologies for not mentioning that in the initial post - that was dumb.
I did have a good stream when we left the dock. Unfortunately, I did not recheck the stream after we were under way.

[Rumrace]

Low fuel pressure will cause over heating due to lean hot combustion. I think I read the impeller is replaced so should beokay. But it’s really hard on exhaust valves

[Rumrace]

Doesn’t mater the brand or use. Everything rubber fails. A stream indicates the pump is spinning. Doesn’t tell you the condition of the impeller. Missing blades clogging line with bits of rubber but still spits

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by lestersails

Thanks BYD. The red light was flashing one flash right when it started and it kept doing this. I do not have a manual and my guess was that that meant it needed service? Since I did the service myself, I don't know how to reset the service light. Apologies for not mentioning that in the initial post - that was dumb.
I did have a good stream when we left the dock. Unfortunately, I did not recheck the stream after we were under way.

The service lite indicates a number of issues, oil change interval is one as is over temp.

Low fuel pressure is not one. And will not trigger the lite.

It was mentioned you can use the primer bulb to diagnosis the fuel issue some what, a simple pump the bulb when the condition happens.

Also, debris can clog the telltale, and stop the flow out of it, somewhat misleading, poke it with a paper clip to clear it.

You can try to reset the service minder lite, and recheck operation.
Key on to outboard, remove safety lanyard, and pull the switch out 3 full times and replace the lanyard.
The oil service reset is complete.https://www.google.com/search?q=9.9+...&client=safari

Now, if the lite returns or stays on you'll need that dang software and link to see what's up.
I'd pull the thermostat and check it isn't frozen shut.

You'll still have a telltale stream even if the t stat is not opening.
Boatyarddog

[lestersails]

Originally Posted by Boatyarddog

The service lite indicates a number of issues, oil change interval is one as is over temp.

Low fuel pressure is not one. And will not trigger the lite.

It was mentioned you can use the primer bulb to diagnosis the fuel issue some what, a simple pump the bulb when the condition happens.

Also, debris can clog the telltale, and stop the flow out of it, somewhat misleading, poke it with a paper clip to clear it.

You can try to reset the service minder lite, and recheck operation.
Key on to outboard, remove safety lanyard, and pull the switch out 3 full times and replace the lanyard.
The oil service reset is complete.https://www.google.com/search?q=9.9+...&client=safari

Now, if the lite returns or stays on you'll need that dang software and link to see what's up.
I'd pull the thermostat and check it isn't frozen shut.

You'll still have a telltale stream even if the t stat is not opening.
Boatyarddog

Thanks again BYD! I will try to get out there Thu am and do the light reset and another test run. I had a shop replace the timing belt and the thermostat - so assuming that they actually did it (I have no reason to think otherwise) I would think that the likelihood of a bad new thermostat would be tiny - do you agree?

Sorry, but I don't know what the "telltale" is. Is that the little tubing nipple out of which the cooling water flows?

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by lestersails

Thanks again BYD! I will try to get out there Thu am and do the light reset and another test run. I had a shop replace the timing belt and the thermostat - so assuming that they actually did it (I have no reason to think otherwise) I would think that the likelihood of a bad new thermostat would be tiny - do you agree?

Sorry, but I don't know what the "telltale" is. Is that the little tubing nipple out of which the cooling water flows?

Yes, should see cooling water come out.
This is an indicator, not actual coolant stream.
I think your okay if you've had the t stat recently done.
Try to reset the service minder, see what happens.
If that lite stays on or is beeping, you'll need to see an outboard Doctor, that can scan it.
Boatyarddog

[Rumrace]

The light was for sure over heating.
Dumb ass question did you put the impeller in reverse? It happens sorry

[Rumrace]

Oh it’s rare but some times a chunk of impeller cracks plastic pumps. You can’t see the cracks.

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Rumrace

The light was for sure over heating.
Dumb ass question did you put the impeller in reverse? It happens

sorry

I didn't see any reference to an impeller change.

A t stat, oil, filters, plugs, and a timing belt done by a service outfit.
He mentioned a good visible stream from the telltale spout, initially.
But could remember seeing it when problems started.
These are only an indicator of coolant pressure and get clogged all the time.

He did have a blinking lite on all the time.
That's a code, oil service indicator, or other, once reset it should remain off.
If not? Scan it.
Boatyarddog

[lestersails]

Hi All
Apologies - I forgot to say that as part of my "tune up" I also did the impeller change. And it needed to be done - I carefully inspected the impeller and two of the vanes had visible cracks in them. But they were all intact, so I don't think I need to worry about broken pieces clogging things upstream.
On to your next point - not clear what you mean by putting it in backwards. When doing this job, I did not replace the stainless steel cup that the impeller sits in. It comes with the kit, but I could not readily get the old one out, it looked to be in perfect condition, smooth and shiny, and so I concluded that it was better to leave the old one in rather than risk damaging it trying and failing to get it out. So I did not change that out. I am certain that the impeller was properly engaged with the crescent-shaped shaft key. Re 'backwards' - do you have to have the vanes bent over in the correct position (clockwise or or counterclockwise)? I assumed that they are soft enough that they would just flip if they were in the wrong way. I assume that the impeller is symmetric with respect to the axis of the shaft and does not have a top and bottom. Is that correct?
Does the telltale stream flow (at least, that I saw initially) tell me that the vane positions are OK?
You are all being very patient and kind - I really appreciate it.

[Rumrace]

I’m not familiar with your water pump sorry. It’s possible in some to reverse the impeller.
The red light is a mutual thread concern.
As long as the engine is no longer overheating with the combined experience folks helping I’m sure we can figure it out.

[Captain Bill]

There are a number of threads discussing cooling problems on the 9.9/15/20 series of Suzuki engines. I have made several posts on my experience with my 15. It is my opinion that there is a coating on the coolant passages in the block and head that wears off in 4 or 5 years and the passages start corroding severely. The block is especially vulnerable because the passages are much narrower than the head. You can check this by removing the thermostat cover and pulling the thermostat out. Start the engine in a water barrel without replacing the thermostat or cover. If water does not start coming out of the opening in 5 seconds you have identified the problem as a clogged block. The head and block are served by two separate openings in a plenum in the base of the power head. So it is possible that the head may be getting cooling while the block is not. The flow to the head can be checked by removing the zinc holder which is the circular thing with a bolt tab about 2 inches behind (Towards spark plugs) the thermostat cover. It's held on by a 12mm bolt. Water should also pour out of there in less than 5 seconds after starting. Don't be fooled by the normal outflow from the head if the zinc cover is still in place. The normal outlet for the head is a small hole under the thermostat cover. The water from the block comes out of the larger thermostat hole and if that is dry the block is clogged. I actually took my power head apart three times in two years before I gave up and bought a Tohatsu. Mine was 4 years old when it happened the first time. It is my personal opinion that these engines are not appropriate for use in salt water. The manual even warns you that if you must use it in salt water it should be flushed after every use.


You should also be aware that the water for the pee hole stream comes off the cooling water passage well below and before the head. It goes to a fuel cooler then overboard. That water only indicated the pump is pumping. It doesn't mean any cooling water is getting into the power head.

[lestersails]

Thanks a ton Cap Bill. This sounds awful. I am a new owner of this now 7 yo engine. I am pretty sure its prior owner was an inland lake sailing club in Florida. So I think it was probably used hard, but I don't think it was used in salt water. I will be using it on the Chesapeake - so that means that, assuming it is fixable, that I will need to follow the flushing routine. PITA, I gotta say!

[lestersails]

Hi all
I did the reset by pulling kill switch button thrice. Started it up and red light flashing immediately. Revved it for a couple mins and then red light flashing changed to solid red light on. Engine is clearly missing. I am thinking it is not capn bills h block cooling problem because flashing light came on immediately. Also when I test temp of water spilling from around motor flusher and out of rear of prop it is warmer than source water.