Proper Way to check engine oil level on Yanmar 2YM15

[facciatosta]

Originally Posted by Lodesman

Have you actually checked the manual?

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...cture33215.jpg

[Lodesman]

Originally Posted by facciatosta

Right, that's how I have done before in all other engines.
Now trying to follow manufacturer's instructions.

Originally Posted by facciatosta

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...cture33215.jpg

Note it doesn't say anything about checking the level warm after a 10-min cooldown. I think if you check the section on changing the engine oil, you'll see it says after changing the oil to "perform a trial run, then approximately 10 mins after shutting down the engine check the oil and refill as necessary."

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by facciatosta

No, I have done opposite. On the cold engine I sucked some oil out and it went down to the full level mark.
It was my first oil change for this engine at 210 hours( when I got th boat). I can't imagine that 2 liters of oil would disappear after 50 hours of operation most of which were at 1,500 -2,000 rpm i.e. exiting the marina, dropping anchor, raising anchor etc.

No it would be extremely unlikely on a yanmar, maybe on a Limey engine it would be possible.
Do you take the oil fill cap off before checking the dipstick as DesoDave suggested in post #17?
Just in case the crankcase breather is blocked or something else wierd is going on.
Good luck with figuring it out. I envy you your virtually new 2ym15, wanna swap with a 40 yr old Yanmar ysm8 with no oil level reading issues?

[facciatosta]

Originally Posted by Lodesman

Note it doesn't say anything about checking the level warm after a 10-min cooldown. I think if you check the section on changing the engine oil, you'll see it says after changing the oil to "perform a trial run, then approximately 10 mins after shutting down the engine check the oil and refill as necessary."

Yes it does say that. Does not help my problem. Why on the first attempt dipstick is dry?

[facciatosta]

Originally Posted by Compass790

No it would be extremely unlikely on a yanmar, maybe on a Limey engine it would be possible.
Do you take the oil fill cap off before checking the dipstick as DesoDave suggested in post #17?
Just in case the crankcase breather is blocked or something else wierd is going on.
Good luck with figuring it out. I envy you your virtually new 2ym15, wanna swap with a 40 yr old Yanmar ysm8 with no oil level reading issues?

Yes, I tried to remove fill cap to mo avail.
Thanks for the offer, I'll stick to my problem. Besides, on my other boat I have 40 years old Farymann single cylinder 6 HP and it is still smoking despite all abuse it endured from me.

[hpeer]

Originally Posted by facciatosta

How is your Yanmar doing now?

Just fine thank you. We have put 2,000 hours on the engine in the past decade. she had 672 hours when we bought her, just turned 2,700. Control panel fell apart, am replacing that now.

As to the comment about checking the manuals for how and when to check the oil i have. And BOTH answers are in there. One place says before starting, another says 10 minutes after shut down.

Been round this track more than once before.

I am not in a hood mood about Yanmar. Recently realized that to remove the water pump">raw water pump, should I ever need to, I must first remove an engine mount. Ditto for fuel injection pump, except I found a cheat and got lucky in that. Yesterday I was replacing the oil pressure sender, but had to unbolt the dip stick first. Then the engine overheat alarm requires a water hose to be removed.

Have you ever tried to talk to the factory about a problem? “Jeeze you are screwed, try taking to your local rep.”; who is 200 miles away in another providence.

Replacement bearings for the turbo need to come from Japan? Really? Yup! 3 weeks delivery.

Exhaust elbow? $700 for genuine Yanmar stuff with faulty welds or $300 for a much higher quality after market unit. Now try to find a cross reference for a simple oil filter. Nope, you are caught paying their price.

The engine has been good, runs a treat, but no thought to serviceability or customer support.

The OP has a legitimate question about the oil level. And Yanmar is zero help.

[Compass790]

Have you ever tried to talk to the factory about a problem? “Jeeze you are screwed, try taking to your local rep.”; who is 200 miles away in another providence.

Replacement bearings for the turbo need to come from Japan? Really? Yup! 3 weeks delivery.

Exhaust elbow? $700 for genuine Yanmar stuff with faulty welds or $300 for a much higher quality after market unit. Now try to find a cross reference for a simple oil filter. Nope, you are caught paying their price.

The engine has been good, runs a treat, but no thought to serviceability or customer support.

The OP has a legitimate question about the oil level. And Yanmar is zero help.[/QUOTE]


This is thread drift but anyway.
I too detest Yanmars dealer network but my tip is for oil filter just find one that is the same physical size or bigger & has the same mount & thread size. You wont get a micron rating out of Yanmar but a similar turbo engine filters micron rating will be fine.
I've never rebuilt a turbo so dont know about their bearings but any ordinary yammer bearings can be had from a bearing supply place. Same with oil seals & o-rings.
There is no need to let Yanmar ream you for quite a few parts.
Sometimes it takes time to work it out so it's a time/$$ equation.
I will spend any amount of time to avoid being reamed by Yanmar but if I was getting paid $1000 per hr I'd just close my eyes & think of England as the saying goes.

[Lodesman]

Originally Posted by facciatosta

Yes it does say that. Does not help my problem. Why on the first attempt dipstick is dry?

Oh is that the issue? Because your dipstick tube is filled with air and the dipstick has a rubber gasket at the top. Engine gets warm, air in tube warms up and expands, pushing the oil level down in the tube. You release the pressurized air in the tube when you take out the stick the first time, so that when you return the stick, the oil in the tube has returned to the level of the sump.

[hpeer]

Compass 790

I agree with you.

On the oil filter when I tried to find a cross reference I was told (here on CF) that Yanmar filters have some internal pressure bypass. Damed if I know that is true or not, but it scared me off. I saw a Yanmar tractor shop the other day, maybe I will go talk to them.

As to the turbo bearings, I allowed a Yanmar dealer to do a 2,000 hour service. He did OK, no complaints. He found some stuff I would not have. But because he was Yanmar he sourced the bearings from Yanmar so I was stuck. I have had the same BS about gaskets. A 4JH4 head gasket needs to come from Japan. So I carry a spare.

[CNC30sailor]

I always assumed crankcase pressure depressed the oil level in the dipstick tube.

[facciatosta]

Originally Posted by hpeer

Just fine thank you. We have put 2,000 hours on the engine in the past decade. she had 672 hours when we bought her, just turned 2,700. Control panel fell apart, am replacing that now.

As to the comment about checking the manuals for how and when to check the oil i have. And BOTH answers are in there. One place says before starting, another says 10 minutes after shut down.

Been round this track more than once before.

I am not in a hood mood about Yanmar. Recently realized that to remove the raw water pump, should I ever need to, I must first remove an engine mount. Ditto for fuel injection pump, except I found a cheat and got lucky in that. Yesterday I was replacing the oil pressure sender, but had to unbolt the dip stick first. Then the engine overheat alarm requires a water hose to be removed.

Have you ever tried to talk to the factory about a problem? “Jeeze you are screwed, try taking to your local rep.”; who is 200 miles away in another providence.

Replacement bearings for the turbo need to come from Japan? Really? Yup! 3 weeks delivery.

Exhaust elbow? $700 for genuine Yanmar stuff with faulty welds or $300 for a much higher quality after market unit. Now try to find a cross reference for a simple oil filter. Nope, you are caught paying their price.

The engine has been good, runs a treat, but no thought to serviceability or customer support.

The OP has a legitimate question about the oil level. And Yanmar is zero help.

Thank you.

[facciatosta]

Originally Posted by Lodesman

Oh is that the issue? Because your dipstick tube is filled with air and the dipstick has a rubber gasket at the top. Engine gets warm, air in tube warms up and expands, pushing the oil level down in the tube. You release the pressurized air in the tube when you take out the stick the first time, so that when you return the stick, the oil in the tube has returned to the level of the sump.

Thank you. Some commenters advised to add more oil instead. As I mentioned before there is pin hole at the top of the tube, but it is blocked by the dipstick's collar. Not sure if it is design flaw or intentional.

[Lodesman]

Originally Posted by hpeer

As to the comment about checking the manuals for how and when to check the oil i have. And BOTH answers are in there. One place says before starting, another says 10 minutes after shut down.

The "checking oil level" section does not say "before starting". It doesn't specify a time at all, but it gives a very detailed procedure otherwise - ie. remove, wipe clean, re-dip, then read.

The place where it mentions a 10-min wait, is specifically after doing a test run following an oil change.

[Lodesman]

Originally Posted by facciatosta

Thank you. Some commenters advised to add more oil instead. As I mentioned before there is pin hole at the top of the tube, but it is blocked by the dipstick's collar. Not sure if it is design flaw or intentional.

You clearly don't need to add oil, if it shows full on the second dip. Never take the reading on first pull. The hole is deliberate - if oil has somehow worked its way up the tube, the suction created by pulling out the rubber plug at the top of the stick would cause it to splash out and piss you off - the hole is to break the suction before the "lid" is off.

[Paul54]

FYI on an old Universal M 25, even after it sits for days and days, when I first pull the dipstick it reads very low. If I wait a second or two with the dipstick out, I then put it back in and get the correct reading.