Perkins 4108: Removing stubborn crankshaft pully nut

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by DougR

Here's what you need!

Points of note:
- It's a right hand thread...
- the bolt head is 1.5" across the flats, but the thread diameter is only 5/8", so don't drill a big hole in the bolt or there won't be anything left!
- as I recall the tightening torque is about 75 ft.lb.

DougR

Originally Posted by DougR

OK.......let's settle this LH /RH stuff......go back and read post#19 and look at the picture of the bolt and washer I took off the front of a 4-108 just to take the picture....

DougR

Thanks Doug, guess my ADD is kicking in, know I read it when you first posted it...

[shanegeard]

Thank you chaps for all the advice, I've learned a lot for next time. I'm wimping out and getting a pro in Saturday morning to finish the whole seal replacement job. I'll order a replacement bolt and will come back and relay to all the method he uses. He said he WILL remove the bolt.

[ValiantV]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Valiant-
The first time someone handed me a can of PBlaster, we were taking down antenna equipment that had been up in salt air for 20 years. The sockets would barely fit on the nuts, they were so swollen from rust. And the damned things just spun off like new after they were hit with PBlaster.
I got religion. And a can of my own.
Last time I used it was on 25 year old exhaust fittings. Which also spun out like new.
Nothing works for everyone, or every time, but I know that PBlaster does a very different job than WD40, at least with me.
No argument about good tools, I learned that lesson the hard way a long time ago.

No doubt PB is better than wd-40. I tend to use WD a lot just for a light lube (which I understand it really isn't anyway) but once in a while for it's designed use - like when some expensive mechanism got wet on a camping trip.

Penetrating oils certainly can't hurt, but it seems that usually, getting them to where they can actually do some good is near impossible. In this case, to help get this bolt out, it has to get past the bolt head - pulley face, and I'll bet it can't get past that very effective metal-to-metal seal. From the picture, the place the spray can get to doesn't need it.

It's just damn tight and the right tool isn't on hand.

I do use PB when I have to attack rusty stuff under a car - kind of a ritual I suppose.

[Cheechako]

Impact wrenches do it it shock force. Much better than trying to muscle it out.

[shanegeard]

A successful conclusion to my crankshaft pully set screw saga...After arranging for the mechanic to be here on Saturday morning, and even calling to remind him on Friday avo, he didn't turn up! So I made a trip to my favorite tool shop and went right for the jugular... the best 900mm breaker bar they had, a 6 point socket, and a blow torch. As it turned out, the bolt came out ridiculously easily with just the breaker bar and no heat! And yes, it was a normal RH thread. The rest of the seal replacement job went smoothly, and the test run was successful. So thank you for all the advice... I've ended up spending my money on more valuable tools rather than on that unreliable 'pro'.
The breaker bar pictured has an extender bar that you twist and pull out.
You Tube was also invaluable for tips on removing and installing the seal.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by shanegeard

A successful conclusion to my crankshaft pully set screw saga...After arranging for the mechanic to be here on Saturday morning, and even calling to remind him on Friday avo, he didn't turn up! So I made a trip to my favorite tool shop and went right for the jugular... the best 900mm breaker bar they had, a 6 point socket, and a blow torch. As it turned out, the bolt came out ridiculously easily with just the breaker bar and no heat! And yes, it was a normal RH thread. The rest of the seal replacement job went smoothly, and the test run was successful. So thank you for all the advice... I've ended up spending my money on more valuable tools rather than on that unreliable 'pro'.
The breaker bar pictured has an extender bar that you twist and pull out.
You Tube was also invaluable for tips on removing and installing the seal.Attachment 152972

Congratulations
Nothing like a goodly amount of leverage; how far does the breaker bar extend to?

[shanegeard]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Congratulations
Nothing like a goodly amount of leverage; how far does the breaker bar extend to?

It extends to a total of 900mm from the socket, and this tool is solid and hefty! I didn't even have to use the dead mallet I bought for the job.

[DeepFrz]

Great to hear you got it done. Sorry if I threw in some confusion on the L/R thread.

I have heard way to many stories of the marine "pros" not showing.

[shanegeard]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Great to hear you got it done. Sorry if I threw in some confusion on the L/R thread.

I have heard way to many stories of the marine "pros" not showing.

Not a problem, it was a very valid question, thank you. In the end it was about usi g the right tool.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by shanegeard

Not a problem, it was a very valid question, thank you. In the end it was about usi g the right tool.

As always

I'm sure you will get good use from the new breaker bar in the future and tackle jobs that might have looked too difficult otherwise.

IMO, money is never wasted when getting the right tool.

Again, congratulations for getting there in the end.