Lucas fuel pump leak from fuel control arm, Cures?

[doog]

So I hate those threads that dont conclude with the conclusion but just leave off unclear, and I found in my work on the dripping control arm that if I applied firm pressure that the engine instantly sped up about 100 rpm, and the leak drastically slowed. So because I must move the boat in four to six weeks and cant risk being inoperable due to a lost part or complication, I need the temporary instant fix. And I just rigged a Capt Ron means of holding pressure on the arm with an aluminum brace. And I was hypothesizing that the engine would start quickly after the overnight hours and this morning, BOOM, started with a five second crank and instead f the limping start where it catches on #1 and then the other cyinders join in after a smoky, fitful start, it caught properly on all four.
So there you go all ye master mechanics with god-like knowledge. My engine is fully and reliably functional and I did not need to pull it apart and there is no risk or damage to any of the components of any system.
Clearly the fuel system was bleeding down with the continuing drip drip that kept on five minutes after shut-down and perhaps even allowed air into the injector pump and made it very hard to start after a long shutdown.

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by doog

So I hate those threads that dont conclude with the conclusion but just leave off unclear, and I found in my work on the dripping control arm that if I applied firm pressure that the engine instantly sped up about 100 rpm, and the leak drastically slowed. So because I must move the boat in four to six weeks and cant risk being inoperable due to a lost part or complication, I need the temporary instant fix. And I just rigged a Capt Ron means of holding pressure on the arm with an aluminum brace. And I was hypothesizing that the engine would start quickly after the overnight hours and this morning, BOOM, started with a five second crank and instead f the limping start where it catches on #1 and then the other cyinders join in after a smoky, fitful start, it caught properly on all four.
So there you go all ye master mechanics with god-like knowledge. My engine is fully and reliably functional and I did not need to pull it apart and there is no risk or damage to any of the components of any system.
Clearly the fuel system was bleeding down with the continuing drip drip that kept on five minutes after shut-down and perhaps even allowed air into the injector pump and made it very hard to start after a long shutdown.

Kind if harsh don't you think?

If one was to read your post and dump in something viscous inside the pump well, too bad for them I guess. My comment would have been different if I stepped in after your other posts. I offered my bonafides just so you didn't think I was some guy on the Internet. Don't like my advice, don't take it. Not like you paid anything for it. Unfortunately not all of us have your powers. CAV pumps are pretty tolerant. I wouldn't try your method on a Bosch pump though. You got lucky. Glad it worked out for you. Let us know how long it lasts.

[marcjsmith]

doog.


glad you have a rube goldberg gene. Every sailor should have at least a little bit.


keep in mind now that you know where the problem is and the leak isn't going away. once you get settled pop the top off the pump make the repair and button it back up. If you don't have to remove the pump, great, if you can do it with out having to remove the manifold and heat exchange, even better.


glad you have a temporary work-around.

[doog]

Yes, Marcjsmith,
Always been good with duct tape and baling wire, and the quick fix. And at the same time I see the great value of 'doing it right' after having it all apart and then overlooking this pump and now having to pull it all apart again, when I just had it all disassembled a few months ago. But really there was no way I could know the injection pump was about to lose its O ring seal and start leaking and cause this very hard starting which can eat the starter and kill batteries and melt the cables..or all of the above. Losing a little fuel is the least of it.
But yep, its fully functional without ANY leaking now and the brace does no harm and its secure and trustworthy. And Perhaps I can get that pump out without pulling the heat exchanger, two of the nuts, sure, but that upper inside one?? And I still need a source for the fuel system crush washers that Ive managed to get to reseal way too many times for good measure.
The fact is that this pump did get exposed to water in the fuel years ago at one point and it may be the reason it began leaking, internal corrosion. Its a fairly low time engine and pump as well..It will show when it comes apart. And looking forward to having it all in top condition.
Now about getting it repaired without fully removing? the engine is way too dirty to risk cracking the pump cover or removing the fuel control shaft from being in a boat with lots of sanding of woodwork and housing a big dog who plays on the beach and so on..It really needs a sanitary situation before coming apart.
I appreciate all the input from all the above and hope the discussion is useful to all.