Help with Yanmar 3YM30AE raw water pump

[SV-Viento]

Originally Posted by B4A

Do you guys also know what other parts will need to be replaced other than the ball bearings and the lip seal?

Does anything else brake in the process to extract the ball bearings? Do I need special tools for getting them out?

I would do the belt at the same time simply bc they are unique yanmar items not expensive and a little fussy to change. I keep the old ones for spares.

[EmeraldCoastSailor]

Originally Posted by B4A

Thanks!!!! And what side is the shaft supposed to come out from?

Comes out the backside, where the retaining ring comes off. Put a rag over the impeller end of the shaft as that is where the tapping with the hammer comes into action.

[B4A]

Originally Posted by EmeraldCoastSailor

Lip seals for my 3ym30 raw water pumps are $12.50 from my local Yanmar dealer. I have found when the seals fail and I notice water leakage the whole pump will be damaged beyond repair (in comparison to a new pump - about $225 for me) in short order. Once, I did manage to catch one leaking and was able to replace the seal with no damage to shaft or bearings. Now I replace them yearly to preserve my pumps.

$12.50? That's a great price! Where are you located? What's the name of the dealer?

[EmeraldCoastSailor]

Originally Posted by B4A

$12.50? That's a great price! Where are you located? What's the name of the dealer?

Panama City Beach, FL
Marine Maintenance - (850) 236-0061; Jimmy knows Yanmars

[Squanderbucks]

For years now I have put together a seal leak device that can be used on many boat water pumps.
It consist of a PVC pipe end cap pick out to closely fit around the body of the pump under the weep hole/slot in the pump body. Sometimes it takes a little heating with a torch and molding the softened plastic to the shape I want and a little trimming to make it fit snugly and straddle the pump from side to side.
Then two SS #8 machine screws are threaded into the bottom about 3/4" apart. Put an additional weep hole in the bottom about 1/8" diameter.
The assembly is held onto the pump with either or both hose clamps or plastic zippy ties.
Run a ground wire from engine block to one machine screw, and another to the other machine screw to the Ground on a warning buzzer. Fused hot to the buzzer as normal. Then when the lip seal starts to drip the rising water completes the contact between the screws and the buzzer goes off. When the engine is stopped the water drains out and buzzing stops. Works much like an over heat buzzer - but it tells you before the actual overheating.

Normally a leaking seal will not be known about because the pump continues to function normally and only fails when the bearings have had enough water exposure and seized - and major pump failure is found. Also unless the skipper does a close exam before starting the engines no drip will be seen on a stopped engine. And initial leaks are sometimes slow drips while running.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by B4A

......... Do I need special tools for getting them out?

Small hammer and pieces of wood for support and to use as a drift/dolly.

More importantly - when refitting the bearings, never ever ever hammer the inside race. Ideally the bearings should be pressed into place but can be gently tapped into place using a soft drift when in the field.

A large socket with an OD slightly smaller than the OD of the outer race is useful tool along with a large vise. Used together, they become a "field press"

Originally Posted by blubaju

All suggestions correct, bearings, o-rings, lipseals, all standard industrial parts, lipseals & bearings always go together, just look for a bearing company

THIS is the best (and cheapest) source for raw water pump parts!

[Jim Cate]

I read about replacing the spring with an O-ring, do you know if this is just a in the field emergency repair or do you have first hand experience on this and how long will it last?

Not an emergency repair at all... common practice in salt water pumps. Does not materially affect the life of t he seal. I've not done Yanmar pumps, but for the typical Johnson pumps we've encountered, the seals cost 2-3 dollars, even here in Oz, where everything is dearer than the USA. And the bearings were not much more, to my surprise... 6-8 bucks each. Dunno how even the Chinese can do them for that!

Jim

[Phyrcooler]

Originally Posted by B4A

The lip seal is definitely a regular maintenance item that should be specified in the Owner Manual, just as they recommend replacing engine oil and filters. But nowhere in the Use(less) Manual there is any mention of the lip seal.

Other than that, unless you tension too much the v belt after you replace the lip seal, the ball bearings should not fail.

Thanks for the info. I’ll keep an eye on it. I’ve heard it’s a good engine, and it easily pushed our boat to over 8 knots during our sea trial. (38’ boat).

[Mike Banks]

The pump is a Johnson, or it is on mine. Just replace it. You can get kits for them, but the maintenance kits I have bought do not include a bearing, just the impeller and gaskets etc.

I am sure one could buy a beat ring, once one has the size. Just avoid Chinese bearings.

.

[doublewide]

I have some notes on the rebuilding of my 3YM30 raw water pump that I will gladly share with the forum. I will add more images to a second post if necessary. I hope they post correctly.

[doublewide]

Further to my previous post, 2 more .pdf's

[Green Buoy]

My 2GMf has a Johnson Pump that leaked. I replaced the bearings with double sealed stainless bearings and lip seal cost was £55 from Simply Bearings UK.

[B4A]

Originally Posted by doublewide

I have some notes on the rebuilding of my 3YM30 raw water pump that I will gladly share with the forum. I will add more images to a second post if necessary. I hope they post correctly.

Amazing tutorial Doublewide! Now I feel confident I can do a rebuild myself. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!



Only problem is that were I am the cheapest ball bearings that I found cost about USD50.00 each. I would need two + the lip seal, so I would end up spending approx USD150.00. I also found the entire pump at USD220.00.

I don't understand the logic in Yanmar pricing...

Thank you also for sharing your PDFs! I just saw that you can get both ball bearing from Amazon for USD12.00! Fantastic!

[EmeraldCoastSailor]

Pics of my pump rebuild jig attached.

[B4A]

Originally Posted by doublewide

Further to my previous post, 2 more .pdf's

Is nut #14 in the exploded view the left handed nut?