Sorry I am a bit late to this, but figured I would add some more to the thread, for future readers if nothing else.
I have owned and lived full time on our Tobago for 6 years. Purchased on
east coast of US, spent 4.5 years in
Caribbean, and arrived in
French Polynesia about 4 weeks ago. We have hull #93 (of 95 built). It's a 1998.
Have no interest in which boat you
purchase, just wanted to add some comments to these quotes below which might be helpful. If I don't comment, it is not something I am familiar with on our boat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako
Tobago notes from the internet:
"Also we are noting localized compression of the saloon sole and would like to stiffen this area. what is the sole material, is it cored, what is the layup thickness etc and has anyone dealt with this issue?
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There is some flex in the sole when the bridgedeck is hit by waves (making the table basically unusable while underway in any type of sea. I have heard the same complaint from owners of bigger FPs as well). The
flooring in ours is a grey roll on thing that is glued in place, which has developed some air bubbles in a few places, so perhaps this is what is referred to. It is purely cosmetic, but I do assume that the
flooring will have a limited life and at some point will need replacing. The floor in the
saloon is not the bridgedeck, it is a second layer making up the
interior and has nothing to do with the hull even if there was a soft spot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako
2.) Bows and down to the underwater areas, where the 2 hull halves are joined. If you find cracks in the bows, then clean off any anti-fouling under the waterline along the joint and get a surveyor to look at it.
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We have some
gelcoat cracks at the bow (and elsewhere, which is not uncommon on these boats), but if you go inside the boat, and go to the bow, it is probably the thickest part of the entire hull (light does not pass through from the outside as it does everywhere there is no coring). Can't possibly see an issue here, unless something was noted from inside the boat also. There is quite some flex in the boat while underway, which I attribute the small hairline cracks to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako
Open up the steering system at the wheel and check out the state of the (push/pull) teeth if it is the original steering. These are not very good quality and wear out fast.
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Perhaps different models have different systems, as ours is 100% and 15 years old. No issues with
steering wheel and cable system. We do lubricate the push-pull mechanism where it attaches to the
rudder connecting rod. We also inspect the mechanical fittings (and replace nyon washers as needed) where the
rudder arm connects to the connecting rod, and spray some sailkote on the delrin collars that hold the rudders in place as there is some friction there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako
Check out the escape hatches for sealing and corrosion, as well as state of the plastic handles used, if in doubt have them replaced.
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Plastic handles? Ouch. If you see an
emergency hatch with plastic handles I would replace it regardless of the condition.
We have purpose-built
Goiot emergency hatches installed. All aluminium, about 20 through bolts, and very solid.
The one thing I will say, the hatches are a bit low to the water (well, it's a
small boat and no room to go higher), and in turn, really get punished while underway. Assume you will be replacing the
gasket, and re-bedding the
hatch every 4-5 years or so. Because of the flex, and abuse from the water, the
sealant simply wears out. When they leak, they leak slow and is easy to notice, so not an emergency by any means. Don't want to make this leak sound scary, it would only be scary if the hatch blew out.
We have rebedded both hatches, 2x now, once in the water, which makes for a great story, but is not easy.
I have seen the hatches on the
Lagoon 37, and they are not suited for the job. I know 2 owners that simply removed and glassed over the resulting holes. Although I am not a huge fan of emergency hatches relative to the possible catastrophic failure, I am ok with them being there, and trust them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako
Check rudder bearings for wear.
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Replacing the bushings is a trivial matter. We just did one rudder in the water 1 week ago. Is not an issue as it takes about an hour to drop, change, and replace the bushings. They seem to last about 5 years (including a 3000 mile ocean crossing). You can get the bushing from FP or the bushing manufacturer directly, so planning is needed to get the
parts (we always carry spares).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako
Check for cracking where the davits go through the hulls, as well as where they go up against the backrests. This is a very poor design, and I have made reinforcing struts to take most of the load.[/FONT][/COLOR]
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Agreed. If not already done add supports to the
davits. It will cost about $100 in material and can do it yourself. No welding needed, just use
bimini hardware, tubing, and rivets. The standard
davits have too much flex in them and can cause elongation of the bulkhead through bolt where they are attached. Not a huge deal to fix (we did), but if you can prevent it before by adding supports, its much easier
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As far as sailing performance, I can't complain. The boat
sails well. Worst point of sail with basic
sails is dead downwind. The
jib is tiny, and the spreaders don't allow a great angle with the main. We have an asymmetrical
spinnaker, and it sorted the issue out just fine with apparent
wind < 15knots. Over that, the
jib can keep you moving.
If you have any specific questions, feel free to send me a PM. I am happy to share anything, the good and the bad.
Although, the main bad's have been issues with annoyances from
Yanmar, not FP. Like the
exhaust elbow,
raw water seacocks, etc....
For the size boat, she does well. Crossing the Pacific definitely pushed her limits to be honest however. The boat was fine and safe, but was not a comfortable ride (keep in mind, the only other cats in the Gambier are 50+', everyone else fell off for the Marquesas).