Need Help Islander 32

[michaeltayar]

Hello,

I'm specifically reaching out to Islander boat owners:

I'm trying to refit an Islander 32 and need some answers please:
- Will gel coat seal many hairline and larger cracks on topside or I need filler first?
- Exhaust mixer (fumes and water) fell apart. Shall I replace with similar (looks homemade) or original Volvo part (it is sitting above engine level)
- What is the winch in pic for? I do not have running lines to cockpit.
- I have a headsail halyard for the roller furling. Where do I attach the whisker pole without bringing down the headsail?

Cheers,
Michael

[Brilliant Sea]

Hi Michael, welcome to the best site on earth for your needs!

If yours is a MII then we have the same boat!

1. I would use epoxy based filler for the cracks. Make sure to try to clean them as much as possible. I have a lot of small cracks as well and I know they will keep coming back if I only used gel to cover them up.
2. You can make up your own, just make sure you stay fairly close to a proper exhaust scheme for your volvo. I have a 325hr Yanmar 30 in mine that replaced the original Atomic 4.
3. From your pic it looks as if your using that winch for your roller furler? I have mine(furling sheet) set more aft and use the winch there if I need it to furl. That winch looks like it was put there to raise your main or you could use it for a spinnaker halyard if you have your lines led to it. I have two extra winches and am planning to lead my main halyard right where yours is. You also have that fairlead and cleat not in use that should have your starboard side traveler sheet through it.
4. You should have three halyards. One for the Jib, one for a spinnaker(or auxiliary) and one for the main. I have two attachment points for a pole. For the spinnaker there is an adjustable track on the front of the mast for flying the spinnaker, and a big loop at the base of the mast that I use for my 155% gennie when going wing on wing.

Even though we have the same boat the previous owners prolly have things set up different than mine but the mast and boom should be the same if it hasn't been replaced.

What year is yours and what hull#? There were only 223(I think) made.

I look forward to further conversations with you as I don't know anyone yet with our boat. I just bought mine last Sept. and am still getting to know her. I singlehanded her up from Deltaville, VA to Forked River, NJ and did an unintentional gybe, ripped the aging main sail and sailed the rest of the way on the gennie alone. When I got to my slip I called up North Sails and had a full batten Radian 7.5oz sail made. I just got it about three weeks ago and will be sliding her on at the end of Feb. Where are you located?

I'm starting to ramble so let's share each of our questions and experiences with our awesome Robert Perry Islanders!!!

Markus

[Brilliant Sea]

Here is my set up, main sheet on port and traveler sheets on both sides. I will be leading main halyard to the starboard side this spring.

[lifeofreilly57]

Usually that winch is for the Cunningham or the downhaul on a spinaker pole. Usually you'd have a couple line clutches mounted in front of it to hold those lines when you are switching from one to another.
If you have a whisker pole or spinaker pole you can use it to pole out your genoa on a downwind tack or for a symetrical spinaker. Depends on how your specific boat is set up.
Rebuilt a friends Islander 30 a long time ago and set it up that way for ease of shorthanded sailing and also for beercan racing.
If you use deck organizers for your lines you can run a number of lines to the winch as long as you have rope clutches and cleats for the various lines, it depends on how you want to use your boat. If you use multiple lines and clutches make sure all the lines are different colors so you can easily know which are for which function.
With lazy jacks and your main halyard lead back to the cockpit you could set your boat up for easy shorthanded sailing.
The possibilities are endless.

[lifeofreilly57]

The biggest issues we had with the Islander 30 were chainplate leaks and the wiring, the original wiring was all replaced after we found a number of partially melted wiring. They didn't use tinned wire in the original build and after a number of years the old wiring was dangerous. Since they are relatively simple boats rewiring it was not that hard or expensive.
Not as familiar with the 32 but I'd have to assume they used the same building practices, the build quality in Islanders varied quite a bit depending on where they were built and in what era.

[michaeltayar]

Thank you all for your feedback, it is helping.
I just got back from buying a tube of 5200 to micro-plug some gaps.

I broke the throttle handle control while trying to remove the cables (unknown brand made in Brazil) and am shopping around for a deal on a used or new one. The Teleflex CH 2100 might me an option with an ATCU Spinlock removable lever.

I removed the old cabin head liner and thinking of replacing it with a white PVC sheet that will add brightness.

I also would like to gel coat the topside after I sand and clean it. I scraped the anti grip too deep and it will be a challenge to match the old pattern in some spots.

There's an inverter on board and I was wondering if it also charges the batteries. Investing in a newer might not be a bad idea down the road.

Had the main, drifter and head sheets repaired at Second Wind here in Ft Lauderdale and they did a good job.

The motor is a Volvo MD7 that we were able to test start for a few seconds. I'll do a follow up after I install the batteries and controls and remove the old oil and diesel.

To be continued...

[michaeltayar]

Hi Marcus,
Thank you for the info.
Mine is a 78 with hull nbr XLYF 3349m78F. I have only had it for a few months and can't wait to start sailing.

The previous owner/s made a lot of changes throughout the years and I even met one of them who sold her 26 years ago only to find out she's still in his name. Was he surprised when I called him and told him there's a boat in his name!!

As I mentioned earlier, I still need a long list of parts.

I'll post more pics later.

Regards,
Michael

[Brilliant Sea]

Cool, it appears we have hull numbers that are pretty close-xlyf 3341 m78d. I'll be heading to Florida this fall and hope we can meet up! There is an Islander owners site and most of them have the 36 and are on the west coast. Islander 36 Association, sailing, racing, cruising and maintaining sailboats The 36 is pretty similar just bigger.

For the headliner I would recommend using foam backed vinyl, It's a lot easier than fitting in rigid pieces. I helped put in frp panel in a buddies boat and it was a pain in the ass.

I'm not sure how many 32's are on the east but it would be cool to gather them up and get some pics. On sailboat data site it says there were 211 made of our model. ISLANDER 32-2 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

Is yours a shoal draft? I'm the third owner and the boat it was coast guard certified up until 2011 and I'd like to get it re-certified again someday.

I have found no problems with anything yet as it was very well taken care of. My projects this spring will be installing a new used radar on mast, installing a wind generator a friend gave me, installing jack lines and making up Skip's lazy jacks. I will be installing solar as well as another battery so I'll have three house and one starting.

One thing I might do if I decide to go across the pond is to install a lead bulb on the keel. It might not be needed as I've had her out in 8-10 foot seas and 35kn winds and she hesitated to heel much over 35 degrees.

Let me know if you you need any help!

[snaggletooth]

The 32 is a very stiff boat. I don't think a bulb is necessary.

[gjordan]

A small safety note. When installing the head liner (assuming contact cement) make sure you have lots of ventilation, such as a large fan. Not only are the fumes nasty to get into your lungs, but I knew a fellow who died when the vapors exploded while he was installing a head liner. Lots of air through the boat should be fine. ____Grant.

[Brilliant Sea]

Originally Posted by snaggletooth

The 32 is a very stiff boat. I don't think a bulb is necessary.

Yes I agree it is pretty stiff but the shoal draft depth and ballast weight worries me a little(3800lbs if a 32-2, 4200 if a 32-3). Robert Perry added 2" to the freeboard and even he said it would have been a better boat if he hadn't. My concern is when I will be putting things on deck like the dingy, extra gas cans and such that I run the danger of being top heavy. Sorry to the OP for hijacking your thread but you should learn more about your boat from this as well.

I have had her out in some decently heavy seas and know that 12' waves are the end of it's safe zone(actually it's just under ten) but I feel comfortable in 12. She's a solid hull and for the OP I hope this gives you confidence that you can sail anywhere. As with any sailboat there will be weather helm but I have been able to balance mine with ease. In a 25 knot wind gusting 30 I have left the main all the way up and used the jib to balance her and I could steer her with my pinky. I've also kept the 155% gennie all the way out with full main just to see how much I could heel her over. I had a lot of weather helm but it was really hard to get her over 35 degrees. Makes me feel very good that it would take a combination of waves and a big gust to have a knock down.

I wouldn't think adding another 2,000lbs in a well designed bulb would slow it down too much but I'm more concerned about stability over speed. It's only an option at this point and when I get another year with her will I discover what to do.

Cheers,
Markus

[lifeofreilly57]

I removed the old cabin head liner and thinking of replacing it with a white PVC sheet that would brighten it up.
To be continued...[/QUOTE]

By glassing in a couple wooden runners to the cabin top you can use them as dividers (stain or varnish them) apply the white PVC or Formica to 1/4" marine ply, then mount them to the runners. It makes for removable panels that you can run wiring under and also still get to the under side of your deck fittings.
You can make the panels any size you want but it's best to make them as symetrical as possible so it looks factory installed.
Did this to my buddies 30 and it looked sharp and as if factory installed, it also allowed for mounting wiring and lighting.

[michaeltayar]

Funny you brought this idea. I was looking at some pics and was impressed by what you just mentioned.

I still don't understand how exactly to do it and hoping you could give additional details.

Cheers,
Michael

[lifeofreilly57]

I'm at customer site in another country right now but will get back to you with a little better explanation when I have some time. Right now the industrial equipment we are tuning is not playing nice in the sandbox, I'll also see if I can get my buddy to send some pictures of the Islander we did this to, he sold it a year or two ago and is now looking for another boat.
Did something similar to my wife's boat when we first met and I think the way I did that one was easier but a little messy due to doing glass work overhead. You'll need a Tyvec suit and some painters drop cloths, but ir was a nice solution.
How long do you plan to own this boat? That will determine how much you want to do to it.

[Suijin]

Originally Posted by Pwdrskr

Yes I agree it is pretty stiff but the shoal draft depth and ballast weight worries me a little(3800lbs if a 32-2, 4200 if a 32-3). Robert Perry added 2" to the freeboard and even he said it would have been a better boat if he hadn't. My concern is when I will be putting things on deck like the dingy, extra gas cans and such that I run the danger of being top heavy...(edit)

I wouldn't think adding another 2,000lbs in a well designed bulb would slow it down too much but I'm more concerned about stability over speed. It's only an option at this point and when I get another year with her will I discover what to do.

Cheers,
Markus

Adding 2,000 to the keel could have some unintended consequences beyond compromising your light air performance.

Best bet is to send Bob an email and ask him what he would do, lol. He's a nice guy and would very likely respond with specific advice on the best solution.