Why do you have a shore power socket?

[Pelagic]

Originally Posted by hamburking

Some of us never plug in to shore power.

I'd rather not have the socket or the cord.

A hard wired cord would just be in the way.

IMHO, they build these things into the boat so people don't do dumb stuff, like use a super long house/garden extension cord to the boat.

Hard wired does not mean that it is not removable .

It means you connect inside your boat with a removeable 3 or 4 wire cable with heavy duty connectors for the rare times you need battery charging other than solar. Maybe like spray painting boat

[zstine]

While I have a factory installed external shore power connection, I very rarely use it b/c I have solar and inverter that runs basically everything.


For design purposes, Why not put the "external" shore power plug inside the locker where the cable would be stowed. That protects it from much environmental conditions and, maybe more important, would likely provide strain relief as the cable exist the locker hatch... Kinda gives you both 'hard wire' for safety and easily unplugged for convenience.

[Jack C]

My 2010 Jeanneau Odyssey 36i has exactly this. The connection is a European plug, a fraction of the price of the US plugs, Heavy copper round posts, a clip to hold it in place. The connection is in the aft locker. The locker lid has a space for the cable to exit.
I simply disconnect at the pedestal. Coil up the cable and store in the locker.

In the locker the there is a GFI/circuit breaker and I added a galvanic isolator.

[Pelagic]

Originally Posted by zstine

While I have a factory installed external shore power connection, I very rarely use it b/c I have solar and inverter that runs basically everything.


For design purposes, Why not put the "external" shore power plug inside the locker where the cable would be stowed. That protects it from much environmental conditions and, maybe more important, would likely provide strain relief as the cable exist the locker hatch... Kinda gives you both 'hard wire' for safety and easily unplugged for convenience.

I think that is better than having the deck plug open to the elements and washdowns.

But my biggest problem with plugs is the way the male posts are engineered to screw into the plastic base.
Over time friction wears them down or the base gets wobbly so extra heat is generated.

It is just a cramped internal arrangement in a small space

With my larger terminal box, each wire has a crimped ring bolted down much tighter and cleaner.

I am happy with my solution

[NSboatman]

Originally Posted by OS2Dude

We use a SMARTPLUG for our shore power inlets. Much more secure than the 'standard' twist lock type and better electrical connection too.

IMHO Being able to disconnect the boat from the cord is easier when coming back than having to disconnect the boat from the pedestal and stowing the cord every time you want to go out.

+1 on the SMARTPLUG. very nice kit. The standard Marinco twist-locks plugs are dangerous and should be outlawed, or at least de-rated. they work ok up to about 20 amps. after that, they suck - not enough positive engagement, not secure enough, and they are frequently foudn to be arcing and overheating. very common source of dock and boat fires.

[Sunstone]

Originally Posted by Redline452

Sorry. but Wrong. The breaker is rated 30 Amps or more. Unless it’s a GFCI, which most pedestal breakers are not, 30-50 mA of leakage won’t trip it, but can cause muscle paralysis in a nearby swimmer, leading to drowning.

And if swimming is prohibited In your harbour as in ours, people can still fall in accidentally.

You are correct that it isn’t good for the cord, either, so if that is your biggest concern, unplug! Leaving the shore end connected and live won’t protect from theft anyway. So unplug, PLEASE.

I agree with Redline. Unplug at both ends before you leave a cord on the dock. Breakers don't always trip, and GFIs (if present) don't always work either. Particularly so in some of the mickey mouse electrical installations found in many marinas.

Cheers,
JB

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by NSboatman

+1 on the SMARTPLUG. very nice kit. The standard Marinco twist-locks plugs are dangerous and should be outlawed, or at least de-rated. they work ok up to about 20 amps. after that, they suck - not enough positive engagement, not secure enough, and they are frequently foudn to be arcing and overheating. very common source of dock and boat fires.

The 30A Marinco plugs aren't particularly good. The 50A ones, however, are far better. More contact area, and the outer ring on the connector makes the connection much more solid and secure.

[valhalla360]

Originally Posted by NSboatman

+1 on the SMARTPLUG. very nice kit. The standard Marinco twist-locks plugs are dangerous and should be outlawed, or at least de-rated. they work ok up to about 20 amps. after that, they suck - not enough positive engagement, not secure enough, and they are frequently foudn to be arcing and overheating. very common source of dock and boat fires.

The standard 30amp (nominal rating) plug does have design issues but you described a big part of the problem.

They are nominally rated at 30amp. For continuous, duty, they are only rated at 24amp. Lots of folks with burnt up plugs are trying to pull continuous 30amps...or more.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by valhalla360

The standard 30amp (nominal rating) plug does have design issues but you described a big part of the problem.

They are nominally rated at 30amp. For continuous, duty, they are only rated at 24amp. Lots of folks with burnt up plugs are trying to pull continuous 30amps...or more.

Good point. In general, AC electrical is rated at 80% for continuous load, with short term loads up to full rating (mind you, short term is up to 2 hours or something).

[capnorv]

I kinda take exception to the idea that hard wired cables are better. My experience as a many years abyc marine electrician is that it just brings the problems away from the boat and to the pier. I've had to replace many 480/150amp cord ends and receptacles over the years. The benefit, no more boat fires, the drawback, after a couple of shoreside problems, you'll probably be looking for a new marina. Personally I very seldom plug in and when I do, I am on the vessel. I have a dedicated isolation transformer to protect from electrocution and keep load down below 75 percent or so of capacity. I use 500 watts of solar panels to keep the 1600 ah house batteries topped off and usually fire up the onboard inverter for ac loads. That said, I am not a full time liveaboard, which has it's own set of unique load demands.

[Pelagic]

Quote capnorv
I kinda take exception to the idea that hard wired cables are better. My experience as a many years abyc marine electrician is that it just brings the problems away from the boat and to the pier.

I just dont understand your logic?

a protected hardwired connection remains physically stronger/tighter than a slip in plug that wears and weathers over time
.... all else being equal.

[MarkI]

It is worth mentioning that using a dielectric grease on the connectors will noticeably improve the lifetime of the connector. After reading this forum I applied it to my new connectors, and they slide into the twist lock so much better, and presumably have better contact, and less heat generated.

I have a heavy 50 foot cable, #6 x 4 wires, and it is work to carry it. For day sails I leave it on the dock, but always turn off the breaker before disconnecting from the boat, and placing it on the dock. Very easy, and no one will be using the slip. Secure marina, and no live cord.

My marina NEVER asked me to inform them when I am gone so I do not think they can rent it to visitors (west coast of US). I do not know if this is tradition or a legal issue (do marinas compensate you when they use the slip you are paying for?).

I also have a 50' #10 cable x 3, much lighter with a 30 amp shore plug, for visiting, much easier to handle, and perfectly safe. So I am in favor of a boat side connector.

Lastly, to the person who described their hardwired system as having a connector, that does NOT qualify as hardwired to many people, regardless of whether it is interior and perhaps hard attached. Hardwired means you need tools, to disconnect the uninsulated wire terminals one at a time, e.g. nothing that qualifies an an electrical connector). (to me at least). Just a nit, nothing wrong with having an interior connector, much better in many ways.

[SuW]

Originally Posted by Redline452

People, PLEASE - those who unplug the boat end and leave the cable on the dock, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make sure to also unplug the shore end of the cord (preferably, first. A live plug sitting on the dock can create a serious (i.e. fatal) shock hazard if it was to fall in the water. People have died.


To those who will say "I already do, why even mention it", thanks.

And to those who come back to the dock a few days later to find their cable has been disconnected from the far end, think about the kids and dogs who swim in the marina waters...

[sail sfbay]

Originally Posted by BillKny

.............why not just have the boat end of the cord hard-wired into the boat's electrical system in the locker? You remove a problematic, high resistance connection, and it is easy to design a waterproof lid for the edge of the locker where the cord exits. Almost all larger boats with very high amperage connections work this way. My boat was set up this way from the factory, and it works without issue.............

I like the design concept but have never seen that feature. The power cord would require a built-in waterproof storage as you indicated and possibly a reel. Only drawback is one would have to haul the power cord out every time it was connected to shore power and if its 50 amp cord its pretty heavy PLUS you would need extension cords. In my case I have the shortest power cord I require connected between shore power and my boat to minimize cord handling.

[Pelagic]

Lastly, to the person who described their hardwired system as having a connector, that does NOT qualify as hardwired to many people, regardless of whether it is interior and perhaps hard attached. Hardwired means you need tools, to disconnect the uninsulated wire terminals one at a time, e.g. nothing that qualifies an an electrical connector). (to me at least). Just a nit, nothing wrong with having an interior connector, much better in many ways. Unquote

To clarify, my hardwired shore cable connection in engine room DOES need tools "to disconnect the uninsulated wire terminals one at a time,"