Questions about installing solar panels on bimini the first time

[David B]

Originally Posted by Rohan

OK, my next upgrade is solar and planning to start soon. I am going to try to do this myself as much as possible.

I haven't decided between flexible and rigid panels yet. I know already many of the pros and cons. My question is about installation. I have a 36' sailboat with a typical soft bimini top. I am looking at these Renogy 100w panels, and there is room enough for 2-3 of them on the bimini aft of the boom so that shadows from the boom shouldn't be a problem.

1. Rigid panels. I would love to do this, but how to attach them? In the stickied thread I see plenty of good examples of them attached via "jungle gyms" on the bimini top. I got it. But where do you get the frames from? That's a little frustrating. Every web site describes how to install these things except where to obtain a frame, as if the frame just magically appears. I could purchase piping from a hardware store, but that would require metal machine tools to put together and wouldn't match the shiny chrome bimini frame I have.

2. Given the above, flexible panels look like an easier option. Seems like most people sew velcro onto the bimini top and put the panels there. Easy. But I worry about them heating up. Why not instead attach the flexible panels with cords with just a little slack, so that the wind can flow underneath them and reduce the heat? Is there a downside to that? Yes, that could be a problem in a hurricane, but in that case, I would just put the panels away if there is a heavy storm coming.

From our experience (we have three of them - 7 years old now) the semi-flexible panels (mounted on a sheet of aluminium, but no frame) are fine, and aesthetically much superior.

Beware of chafe to the bimini top, so if you arrange a continuous pocket on the bimini top, no wind can get under, and the aluminium (or composite if you go that way) edge will not chafe the bimini. Done this way, with cabling down the tubes, you will not see them at all, with just the shadow looking up, being the teltale.

The overheating issues people have, seem to be when mounted hard on a deck. Up on the bimini, the undersurface is able to dissipate heat - especially the semi's with that aluminium sheet!

[Jack C]

I put 3 x 160w rigid panels on the bimini of my Jeanneau Odyssey 36 i. The Bimini poles are 1.25". I used light aluminium square and angle. The panels are fore aft. and are rear of the boom. I used 8 UV resistant agricultural saddle fittings to attach the aluminium frame to the bows. 2 fittings for each support. The fittings are designed as a "T" with the top of the T clamped around the supply pipe. The leg of the T is a female 1/2" threaded socket. I used 1/2" plastic pipe nipples to join the legs of 2 T's.
One top of the T clamps around the bow with the pipe nipple upward. The other T's leg is screwed onto the nipple and has its clamp part removed leaving a flat flange that is bolted to the aluminum frame.

See the pics.

So an aluminum frame that supports the panels sitting on four supports. The nipples allow height adjustment to take into account the curved bows. The panels weigh about 22 lbs each. The plastic supports isolate the SS bows from the Al frame.

The result is aesthetically pleasing. Most people don't realise that the panels are there.

Disadvantage, can not fold up Bimini.

The T fittings came with regular bolts which I replaced with Stainless Steel bolts. The fitting were about $5 each. Although you can get a SS fitting with a 1/4" post, these have to be slid over the bow. I could not find a split type and also was not happy with a 1/4" post.

I used Plasson saddles, made in Israel and locally available. Plasson sells globally. Here is a link that may help.
https://www.flowsolutions.plasson.co...Outlet-Saddles

[RaymondR]

The dodger and bimini fittings which rely upon those little grub screws to hold them together are not secure from a structural viewpoint.

Since the addition of panels will often prevent the dodger and/or bimini from folding down one is obliged to leave them up in a blow.

I use these fittings on my solid bimini but have drilled the grub screw holes right through, put solid SS rods through, slightly countersunk the holes and peened the ends of the rods over to ensure they cannot come free.

[2nd TEE]

I installed 2 flexible 120w to the bimini attaching them using zippers on the long sides. These will never blow off & doesn’t impede my view.

[Paul Howard]

Whatever you decide to do, make sure your installation cannot be caught up in any lines that swing over the bimini/solar panels.
On a boat I purchased the panel corners stuck out such that doing a gybe the mainsheets and slack reefing lines could occasionally snag the aft corners of the rigid panels, causing some fear that the whole set up could be torn off. I had to modify where and how they were mounted to prevent any snags. Remember that any rope, given any opportunity in any situation will inevitably catch on something.

[Shammi]

Originally Posted by Rohan

I haven't decided between flexible and rigid panels yet.

See second half of this video (at ~8:50) for flexible panel installation and how to keep them cool:

https://youtu.be/5JOIpIl-d7k

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by darrelweb

I just installed two 100 watt panels on my bimini frame, also braced to my radar post. I took off the fabric cause l did not want to try and clean under the panels. KISS thinking here. I made aluminum pipe holders sort of like a C with 2 tails and used 3/16 SS bolts and self locking nuts. Only had to drill thru the panel frame, but put a backing plate between where drill goes thru and the dolar panel itself. Drilling SS is not worth the time and effort.

Cloudy out right now, 13.8 volts and all 3 batteries are on float.

DarrelAttachment 220693

Side the panels a little further apart and stretch a strip of fabric between them and you've got a full Bimini again. Check YouTube channel Lady K Sailing. His panels are wider so two of them cover the whole Bimini frame with no fabric. He added a rain catcher system to it too.

[rsementi]

I had the same question for an RV install and my vote is the flexible panel, but only if you install it with proper ventilation using polycarbonate sheeting (that can be found at any good hardware store). This will take care of the heat issue since it will allow air to flow under the panel. You can use sikaflex to glue the panels on to the poly sheets.
Flexible panels don’t last as long as rigid but that’s changing as many brands are using one single sheet of copper to prevent failed panel sections. I think Renogy still gives you a 25 year warranty. Plus, since the technology is improving every 6 months, you’ll probably want to upgrade them after 5 years.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by rsementi

I had the same question for an RV install and my vote is the flexible panel, but only if you install it with proper ventilation using polycarbonate sheeting (that can be found at any good hardware store). This will take care of the heat issue since it will allow air to flow under the panel. You can use sikaflex to glue the panels on to the poly sheets.
Flexible panels don’t last as long as rigid but that’s changing as many brands are using one single sheet of copper to prevent failed panel sections. I think Renogy still gives you a 25 year warranty. Plus, since the technology is improving every 6 months, you’ll probably want to upgrade them after 5 years.

Our rigid panels from 2004 were rated for a total of 660W and today after almost 17 years still produce 575W. Upgrading after 5 years is something owners of flexible panels do, hoping the new ones are improved and last longer. Owners of rigid panels just keep using them

[Statistical]

Originally Posted by rsementi

I had the same question for an RV install and my vote is the flexible panel, but only if you install it with proper ventilation using polycarbonate sheeting (that can be found at any good hardware store). This will take care of the heat issue since it will allow air to flow under the panel. You can use sikaflex to glue the panels on to the poly sheets.
Flexible panels don’t last as long as rigid but that’s changing as many brands are using one single sheet of copper to prevent failed panel sections. I think Renogy still gives you a 25 year warranty. Plus, since the technology is improving every 6 months, you’ll probably want to upgrade them after 5 years.

Panels are getting cheaper they aren't getting much better. Planning on an upgrade every five years is a good way to waste money or justify buying garbage panels to begin with.

Seven years ago I bought 18% efficient panels today most panels are ... 14% to 18% efficiency. The absolute most efficient consumer panels are around 22%. In no way would it make sense to throw away panels which have another decade of life to pick up 4% higher efficiency.

[TheOffice]

I built a rigid bimini and have 3 flex panels. Just an option.

[rupertfb]

Flexible panels have a short life
Rigid panels go up to 500W note, for as little as 50c/Watt
Plan for more power than you need
I plan to mount three rigid panels as a ‘hard roof’ and scrap the canvas

[SOLAR SUPPORT]

Start searching a reliable, long lasting, high efficiency Solar Power System by asking those questions :

Are flexible panels on my bimini block the bimini support closing when I realy need to or want to close it?

Are flexible panels getting hot on the bimini? Do you know that higher cell temperatures reduce the solar energy efficiency much more than ventilated and cooled ones.

Do flexible panels have enough hail resistance like hard ones have? What is quarantee terms?

How many replacement stories have you heard that tell shifting from flexible to hard ones.?

Don't you want to feel free to see everything when you are sailing? Trim of your sails and the blue sky or stars on you.

The area behind of your backstay is the less shade taking place. Riggings, the mast and boom create much shade in front of the backstay during the day time.

The link below shows my Rollbar & Solar Energy installation behind the back stay which has 320 watts of solar power and can be used to carry hard type solar panels up to 600 Watts. It has 48 mm diameter SS support pipes. Rollbar has a reverse U shape in general. It has been tested under heavy windy conditions around 50 knots.

https://youtu.be/eeKOMZKBL_s

This rollbar is independent from the boat's bimini. 316 SS carrier system has height and width adjust ment capability which makes the rollbar to be installed to many different sized boats between 30 to 50 feet.

Solar panels angle to the sun beams can be adjusted manualy to maximize the energy output when docked. You can easily wash them with a brush by adjusting solar panel holder's angle.

[edakira]

I've attached a few pix of the method I used to mount 2 Renogy 100w rigid panels to my soft bimini. It does not take welding and fancy pre-fab designed mounting brackets etc. I couldnt find detailed closeups and no longer own the vessel but happy to walk you thru what I used. The bimini frame is more than ample to support the weight and span and frankly further seemed to stabilize it. No problems at all, tho in event of approaching hurricane you'd need a few hours to disassemble so you could safely collapse and store all. Which is not a big deal. Hope this helps.

[Wainui]

I attached 3 x 100w flex panels to the Bimini canvas using a circle of leather each side then a SS bolt, a fender washer each side, a half nut. Then panel, small washer and last a acorn nut. Lasted so far in high winds and 4 seasons in Mexico.