Open Source Arduino Alternator Regulator

[Jon Hacking]

I believe that N-Type is the European standard, but I've never come across it myself. Of course, I've never cruised Europe, either.

The other Arduino regulator has a pretty simple circuit for this, but it does require the user to wire 2 pins together (essentially, a jumper) to make it work.

[markxengineerin]

Yes I saw that one and would use the same strategy, if there are cases where it's used. Trying to avoid feature bloat unless it will be used by at least one person.

[WE9V]

Originally Posted by markxengineerin

About connectors- the screw terminals selected are the highest we found, and only good to 15 amps. The PWM chip is good to 40, so, better connectors would allow higher currents. Anyone know of anything friendly for a DIY wiring harness, but higher current rating than a screw terminal?

I used these on my homemade solar MPPT controller:
https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/...P_C475108.html
"Claims" to be 65A, handles up to 6 ga. wire.

You may want to use the filters at https://www.lcsc.com/products/Screw-terminal_11140.html to find something you like.

[markxengineerin]

The filters were quite good, leaning towards this https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/..._C5188494.html

[s/v Jedi]

Not robust enough.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...X2-RK/13150596

[markxengineerin]

Those Anderson connectors look like the Cadillac, possibly too nice for this application. Looks like they require a crimping tool, or ability to solder a fairly large wire (and do it well), possibly with the added difficulty of different wire gauges, as I wasn't trying to supply a harness.
https://www.sotabeams.co.uk/content/PowerPoleGuide.pdf
I'm seeing a potential extra $40 (mostly the crimp tool) on a ~$300 product.

There are a lot of screw terminals in use- have there been failure examples on boats? If so, more thought is needed, but if going with the top of the line in everything, we'll end up a lot closer to Wakespeed/Balmar/Zeus in price.

Ideas for keeping cost down, but still using these connectors?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by markxengineerin

Those Anderson connectors look like the Cadillac, possibly too nice for this application. Looks like they require a crimping tool, or ability to solder a fairly large wire (and do it well), possibly with the added difficulty of different wire gauges, as I wasn't trying to supply a harness.
https://www.sotabeams.co.uk/content/PowerPoleGuide.pdf
I'm seeing a potential extra $40 (mostly the crimp tool) on a ~$300 product.

There are a lot of screw terminals in use- have there been failure examples on boats? If so, more thought is needed, but if going with the top of the line in everything, we'll end up a lot closer to Wakespeed/Balmar/Zeus in price.

Ideas for keeping cost down, but still using these connectors?

Good to have the crimping tool because there’s a ton of uses for these connectors. I have them on all my pumps, radios etc. Silver contacts, doesn’t get much better.

I use the dies for non-insulated crimp terminals from my Wirefy crimp set.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q32PYP3

A generic PowerPole crimper is $25
https://www.amazon.com/APIOLO-Connec.../dp/B0C6LDPWKV

[becrux]

Balmar swears by P regulation and offers this logic:
https://balmar.net/faq/
(Choose the second faq- copy and paste were not allowed)
I agree.

Most internally regulated alternators are N type. Converting one for external P regulation is fairly easy. That’s what I did with my generic 10SI alternator for use with my 612 Balmar reg.

I recommend providing only P type regulation.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by markxengineerin

Yes the two can exist together, at least how I think of it. Other businesses with similar models https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_o...s_and_services


I hear you, but let me try to change your mind, because I would like your participation:

• The hardware and software are both open source, nothing hidden, anyone can do what they want with it, including build it themselves if they prefer
• But you also have the option to buy pre-made hardware, to support what I'm doing and make your life easier. Price undecided, but it's going to be much cheaper than anything else on the market for what it is
• Making money will compensate me for my efforts, and pay for future product development. It will mostly be the latter, I'm keeping my day job and this is more of a hobby/experiment at least for the foreseeable future
• Participation is not required, and in many cases will be as simple as someone here saying "why don't you consider an ESP32?" This thought probably took someone a split second to type, but it totally changed the project direction for the better.
• The above level of participation is not that different in principle than posting a review or opinion about any commercial product.
• Heck, you already have participated, I think one of your posts was my intro to the INA219. That was valuable and if you'd like a free prototype, PM me and I'll ask for your shipping address when something is ready. I'm guessing a couple months from now if all goes well.

@JonHacking, thanks for the feedback, noted. I will learn more about conformal coatings when the PCB is finalized, maybe I'm just imagining spray causing continuity issues with connections, unless masking is used, and I don't know how complex that ends up looking, how quality is controlled, etc. I also don't know much about the costs, none of the vendors I've found offer that (although I haven't looked very deeply). Open for ideas in this area. I would like to offer something that's corrosion resistant, haven't found a clear path to do it yet.


I'll update the diagram, it's not a good one. The sensor shown was current only, no voltage measurement location is shown. You're free to locate either measurement at any location you choose. In my breadboard prototype, I'm measuring current from the alternator, but voltage at the battery. Opinions on this will vary, but the system can handle any option, or all at once if someone wants.

Great approach which I can fully support. Especially for the ones that are in a location where sourcing parts is time consuming, high freight costs, long shipping times or even unavailable parts the option to buy it pre-made is great, not to say vital.
I am in the canaries and here we have customs declaring goods once a week, you read right f.. once a week. even starlink and amazon stopped shipping here because only spanish state postal service correos and DHL express work somehow correctly but its nearly impossible to get anything below 2 weeks, average is 4 weeks.
Only exception straight from china is a week, 2 max because they have their own ship handlers and custom agents employed.
Pre-made is the only option here as only sourcing parts will take 3-4month...

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Good to have the crimping tool because there’s a ton of uses for these connectors. I have them on all my pumps, radios etc. Silver contacts, doesn’t get much better.

I use the dies for non-insulated crimp terminals from my Wirefy crimp set.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q32PYP3

A generic PowerPole crimper is $25
https://www.amazon.com/APIOLO-Connec.../dp/B0C6LDPWKV

I agree on that. We don't need rolce royce everywhere but what does it help if you have the best regulator if the contacts f... everything up?

Recarding casing simple use an IP67 onwall plastic installation box for wet external surroundings in houses or sheds. It has also rubber gromets to get cables in/out. Cost between 5 and 20Euro depending on size.
Thats how i have my Electrodacus BMS with the additonal optocoppler boards installed.

Cheap coating just dip the whole board when finished in liquid rubber.

If you really wanna have a cheap solution for the connection simply solder cables to the board with bare wire ends and we can crimp on whatever we want, need for a connector.

[markxengineerin]

Trying to figure out the CAN communication enough to be confident that the hardware will support it. I found this useful site.

One learning is that the Arduino Uno is too slow, so this communication will only work with the ESP32 chip version. That's fine, I don't know how many people will end up using it anyway.

But, the ESP32 uses 3.3V, so the standard MCP2515 CAN controller coupled with the TJA1050T transceiver will not work, as the transceiver requires 5V input power and probably uses 5V logic level on communication.
I think it will work to replace that transceiver with MCP2562FD. If anyone can confirm this thought, that would be helpful. I think it would be cleaner to have a 3.3V transceiver chip than to add voltage converters, because it seems like there is some risk they're not fast enough or cause other problems.

[donradcliffe]

Couple of suggestions:

For long term reliability, make sure that your control box is not put in the engine space.

Think about failure of the sense wire and/or a really dead battery. How to distinguish the two, and how to treat them. Balmar requires a minimum sensed battery voltage to start charging which is a PITA, but without it many a battery has been fried by an open sense wire or the sense wire to the wrong battery.

[s/v Jedi]

The Arduino MKR series is fast and has CAN bus ports.

[markxengineerin]

Progress from today- Victron VEDirect is being read from the Arduino serial port, so the regulator can use those variables for anyone who wants them (Voltage, Current, Temperature, State of Charge, etc) as understood by any modern Victron device. I used my solar charge controller for development, but it'd be even better with the BMV712 battery monitor, which offers more of the relevant parameters.

@donradcliffe, for the safety features, that will all be up to the user, but I like the ideas for default values. I will include a "Safety override" button that will ignore everything and just charge, which will be useful for times when batteries get drained enough that BMS shuts them down entirely. I have had that happen a couple times, and since so much equipment has a safety like you're describing, it can be a bit of a pain to "jump start". I end up shorting the house bank right to the engine battery, probably not the safest thing but it works.

I will keep Arduino MKR in mind- currently 10x more expensive than the chosen ESP32. I haven't decided about those connectors yet

[MikeFergie]

I believe all mastervolt Large body alternators are N type and that’s why you can’t use a balmar regulator on them. Only the mastervolt regulator and I believe the wakespeed which you can choose N or P type.