2 wire vs 3 wire windlass

[rslifkin]

As a safety, I have the power for my windlass control circuit switched at the helm. So while a solenoid could stick closed during operation, it would be very unlikely to have the windlass suddenly activate while not in use. When the master switch at the helm is off, there's no power to the up/down switch or the receiver for the wireless remote, so nothing can power the coil side of the solenoid pack to engage it.

[Britishsea]

I have a tangental but related question to this post's topic.

I am retrofitting a 2 wire, 800 watt permanent magnet windlass for a 3 wire, 1000w series wound windlass.

The 2 wire windlass has existing 25-ft, 2 AWG wire runs. The new windlass calls for a larger wire gauge (1 or 1/0awg).

If I understand the series wound motor correctly, one of the two positive posts is dedicate to "down" and one to "up".

So as "down" presumably uses a lot less current than "up", I thought I would leave the existing 2AWG wire for the "Down" pole and replace the negative (common) pole and the "UP" pole with larger gauge wires.

Or am I misunderstanding how a series wound motor works and the relative current draw through each of the three wires?

BritSea