St4000+ wheel question. Fix or replace?

[SVLife]

We just purchased a 2001 Hunter 340 and were looking into some upgrades. Currently the wheel unit has corroded copper wire falling out and the AP is working but not reliable. Yard wants $6400 to install a new Garmin linear AP which is out of the question. A new wheel only is $520 on eBay.

How hard is it to swap the wheels?
What is the wire that’s hanging out? I’ve reviewed the pdf with no luck

Plans are to get the CP and instruments all swapped out for Garmin counterparts soon. Might have to keep the old AP though as long as they can communicate.

Thanks guys

[smac999]

There is no wire in the wheel?...

Wheel just bolts on. And plugs in.

[Chotu]

How about reattaching the corroded copper wire to the wheel unit by soldering it back in place?

Maybe use new wire.

[Tetepare]

Originally Posted by smac999

There is no wire in the wheel?...

Wheel just bolts on. And plugs in.

Yeah. But then next post suggests soldering it back in. Whole lot of confusion going on here. Maybe there is a wire hanging out of his, that’s why it doesn’t work well. I suppose it’s photo time.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Tetepare

Yeah. But then next post suggests soldering it back in. Whole lot of confusion going on here. Maybe there is a wire hanging out of his, that’s why it doesn’t work well. I suppose it’s photo time.

Even a better verbal description.

It's a very straightforward device. I've had them. I currently have one. It's a 2 conductor wire coming out of the wheel motor to the logic unit.

There aren't any other wires. Just gears and whatnot inside the part that turns the wheel.

[landlockedgm]

If the wire is coming out of the unit attached to the wheel the drive belt is coming apart. Easy to replace.

[SVLife]

New To us boat is in Texas, we’re back in Florida. We are hoping it’s the belt degrading and wanted to have the correct parts on hand before returning to the boat then sailing back to FL. Game plan thus far is to order a belt and new rollers which look easy enough to install.

2nd question regarding this thing... how do we tell if it’s a mk1 or mk2 unit? Display is a st4000+ and the wheel drive unit is black, not grey.

[Pete7]

The wheel drive unit is a Mk 1. Not bad as such since it has brass gears inside rather than plastic in the Mk 2 (grey type). Since there are only two wires which reverse the current depending which way the wheel needs to be turned, they can be easily matched to a variety of control displays.

There are some great You Tube videos on maintaining and repairing the Mk 1 which you should watch and it would be worth carrying out the upgrade to bolts for the Mk 1 guide wheels which are only held in place with screws from Raymarine. I did the bolt conversion to mine without any problems. There are about 8 short videos on this conversion.

Pete

[Pete7]

Buy a couple of belts at least to take with you, one as a spare and ditch the one inside, they don't last forever. Plus the Mk 1 has a habit of wearing the belt in one spot. Should be about $30 a belt.

Pete

[Tenedos]

Originally Posted by SVLife

How hard is it to swap the wheels?
What is the wire that’s hanging out? I’ve reviewed the pdf with no luck

It is easy. I just did the same on my boat, but I replaced the entire unit, which I recommend. ST 4000+ Fluxgate compass is not very effective. EV-100 is light years ahead of ST 4000+.

Whether you replace the entire system or just the wheel drive, if you are switching from MK1 to MK2, sizes are different, so you may need to pay attention to spacing for the clutch.

And wait for Raymarine deals, you can get one with deep discounts.

Also see a similar thread: https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...00-219614.html (see the last post for summary)

[Dsanduril]

If the wire is coming out of the wheel section then as described above it is probably the belt coming apart. Quite a common problem. The belt rib is only mild steel cable and sits in the wheel rusting. The cogs in the belt expose the wire and it’s all downhill from there.

It has been a long time, but at one point I found Kevlar reinforced belts from an industrial supply place. Bought several, never needed the spares, that Kevlar belt lasted years.

[SVLife]

We’re mainly just trying to get it back to Tampa sooner than later then will will begin upgrading. If I can get this thing operational for under $200 and some elbow grease while gaining knowledge I’m happy To go that route for now.
Most likely going to west marine this afternoon and ordering a new Garmin charplotter and depth sounder while they are 30% off

[Catboat Willy]

If you check e-Bay, there are many wheels to replace your existing wheel -if necessary, But there are two contacts you should have before doing this project;

1st. i3dgear.com (check out on web) in Salt Island, B.C. Canada Tel 250-537-8951
2nd. Polybelt 29W 1st. Clifton, NJ You need one type 169D

i3dgear will make you any parts necessary and stocks all the essential parts in inventory.
Bill

[Tetepare]

Wait I now remember a long time ago a steel colored wire sticking out of mine. It wasn’t the drive belt. Maybe part of the engagement cam? I don’t remember what it was, but I’ve rebuilt mine three or four times over the last 25 years. It’s easy to do. Take it apart and figure out what the issue is. And get a spare belt- one from the manufacturer- I bought a couple cheaper belts and they sucked.

[RLaird]

There are two different tooth counts I believe. The wheel halves pop apart. If you can find both buy both and return the one that doesn't match. It is a very simple device with a tension roller on the inside that engages the belt.


Just handle with a bit of care and attention to detail and you should be fine!


Stay well!