Which anchor light LED bulb can match a 25 watt incandescent?

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Seas The Moment

. So when you search for a replacement bulb for BAY15, make sure it is not a "dual function" bulb.

This^^^^ and mentioned in post 14.
Many of the bulbs being mentioned and sold are multifunction bulbs.
The one I linked to is a sealed single function bulb and cheap compared to many.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post2570269

[waterman46]

I suggest a better way to compare brightness would be to set up the two bulbs side by side and run them in parallel off the same supply. Forget the high tech meter and use your own eyes to compare. The meter may be more or less sensitive to certain wavelengths than the human eye.

[patja]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

This^^^^ and mentioned in post 14.
Many of the bulbs being mentioned and sold are multifunction bulbs.
The one I linked to is a sealed single function bulb and cheap compared to many.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post2570269

I discovered this to be an issue with the bulbs suggested at the top of this thread from superbrightleds.com -- they do not work in my enclosure and seem to require contact to the housing where the pins are on the side in order to activate. They are labeled as "dual function".

[Fuss]

Originally Posted by patja

I discovered this to be an issue with the bulbs suggested at the top of this thread from superbrightleds.com -- they do not work in my enclosure and seem to require contact to the housing where the pins are on the side in order to activate. They are labeled as "dual function".

Thats why I suggested the DR Led bulbs as they work with the series 40 Aqua Signal housing and have 2nm mile range.

Fiddling around with cheaper product sometimes works but mostly ends up in the experience you are having.

[patja]

Originally Posted by Fuss

Thats why I suggested the DR Led bulbs as they work with the series 40 Aqua Signal housing and have 2nm mile range.

Fiddling around with cheaper product sometimes works but mostly ends up in the experience you are having.

I'm not so concerned about the 2nm range requirement -- I am pretty confident that every bulb I've looked at is qualifying under that criteria. I am more interested in getting the brightest LED I can.

I have the Marinebeam bulb and will probably end up sticking with it. I also purchased, tested, and returned a bulb from Lunasea which was recommended by Fisheries Supply here in Seattle. It was dimmer than the Marinebeam bulb. They said they didn't like the Dr. LED bulbs as well as Lunasea, and the Dr. LED bulb says "1 watt" which suggests it is unlikely to be brighter than the Marinebeam or Lunasea bulbs.

I have one of these on the way now, which I suspect will be my last attempt to beat the Marinebeam bulb while I have the mast down. I am hopeful as it specifically lists compatibility with the Aqua Signal enclosure and says it is 3.5 watt.

[Fuss]

Originally Posted by patja

I'm not so concerned about the 2nm range requirement -- I am pretty confident that every bulb I've looked at is qualifying under that criteria. I am more interested in getting the brightest LED I can.



I have the Marinebeam bulb and will probably end up sticking with it. I also purchased, tested, and returned a bulb from Lunasea which was recommended by Fisheries Supply here in Seattle. It was dimmer than the Marinebeam bulb. They said they didn't like the Dr. LED bulbs as well as Lunasea, and the Dr. LED bulb says "1 watt" which suggests it is unlikely to be brighter than the Marinebeam or Lunasea bulbs.



I have one of these on the way now, which I suspect will be my last attempt to beat the Marinebeam bulb while I have the mast down. I am hopeful as it specifically lists compatibility with the Aqua Signal enclosure and says it is 3.5 watt.

This bulb looks very good. I might try these on my deck navigation fittings.

After all the advice given, the original poster comes up with the best solution....

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Fuss

This bulb looks very good. I might try these on my deck navigation fittings.

After all the advice given, the original poster comes up with the best solution....

That's your opinion.

Personally I prefer the totally sealed bulbs I linked to at a fraction of the price.

[Fuss]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

That's your opinion.



Personally I prefer the totally sealed bulbs I linked to at a fraction of the price.

Yes, you are right, your advice was also good.

[hellosailor]

A lightmeter will have some variation from the different spectral emission of a tungsten bulb versus a "nowhere near full spectum" LED, even a "white" LED. But still, they should be close.

Any good bulb supplier or maker will be able to give you brightness specs, in candela or lumens or whatever unit they are using, so the two bulbs can be compared from specs, no need to get a light meter involved.

And apparently the pros at superbrightleds are slipping. They show that bulb as an 1157 type, but it is an 1156 type. The difference can be critical, an 1157 is a DUAL FILAMENT DUAL BASE CONTACT used when one contact is for turn signals and the second powers a bright brake light, things like that. Placing an 1156 in an 1157 socket, or vice versa, can screw things up or burn them out. Unusually sloppy of them. While an 1157 will work in an 1156 socket, it should burn out faster as the brighter filament is not built as heavily.

[Fuss]

Originally Posted by patja

I'm not so concerned about the 2nm range requirement -- I am pretty confident that every bulb I've looked at is qualifying under that criteria. I am more interested in getting the brightest LED I can.

I have the Marinebeam bulb and will probably end up sticking with it. I also purchased, tested, and returned a bulb from Lunasea which was recommended by Fisheries Supply here in Seattle. It was dimmer than the Marinebeam bulb. They said they didn't like the Dr. LED bulbs as well as Lunasea, and the Dr. LED bulb says "1 watt" which suggests it is unlikely to be brighter than the Marinebeam or Lunasea bulbs.

I have one of these on the way now, which I suspect will be my last attempt to beat the Marinebeam bulb while I have the mast down. I am hopeful as it specifically lists compatibility with the Aqua Signal enclosure and says it is 3.5 watt.

These bulbs are not waterproof so I take back my comment that they are ok.

[Badsanta]

If it has not been mentioned use a white LED for anchor light
Do not use white LED under a red/green lense
The color will come out as a pink/ blue light
Use like colored LED under like colored lense.
I spent good money for a nice and bright white LED that was wrong but I used it for the anchor light.

[CaptTom]

Incandescent bulbs are dirt cheap, can be bought anywhere and burn for thousands of hours. They match the design of the fixture, keeping your lights visible and legal over the proper distances and spectra. I see no value at all in LED replacement bulbs.

Replacement LED fixtures, on the other hand, free you from ever having to worry about corroded contacts. In my experience, that problem is far more common than burned-out bulbs. I'd never climb up to a fixture with just a new bulb. Always bring along a knife, file, sandpaper, dielectric grease and various other implements and sprays to combat the inevitable corrosion.

Personally, I'd prefer never to have to do that again.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by CaptTom

Incandescent bulbs are dirt cheap, can be bought anywhere and burn for thousands of hours. They match the design of the fixture, keeping your lights visible and legal over the proper distances and spectra. I see no value at all in LED replacement bulbs.
.

Is that right?

Can you show me a source for these dirt cheap bulbs, bay15d 24v
And also explain why I have gone through 3 in 2 years?

No corrosion issues seen and its an old fitting.

[Fuss]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

Is that right?

Can you show me a source for these dirt cheap bulbs, bay15d 24v
And also explain why I have gone through 3 in 2 years?

No corrosion issues seen and its an old fitting.

Actually this whole thread has been a waste of time as the OP wanted brightness over waterproofing. The end result is that we have all been posting away but in reality we want a waterproof Navigation bulb over a brighter bulb. He ended up suggesting a bright non waterproof aqua signal compatible led bulb.
Really... a non waterproof led Navigation bulb!

[Paul Elliott]

Originally Posted by CaptTom

Incandescent bulbs are dirt cheap, can be bought anywhere and burn for thousands of hours. They match the design of the fixture, keeping your lights visible and legal over the proper distances and spectra. I see no value at all in LED replacement bulbs.

Replacement LED fixtures, on the other hand, free you from ever having to worry about corroded contacts. In my experience, that problem is far more common than burned-out bulbs. I'd never climb up to a fixture with just a new bulb. Always bring along a knife, file, sandpaper, dielectric grease and various other implements and sprays to combat the inevitable corrosion.

Personally, I'd prefer never to have to do that again.

I initially replaced the incandescent bulb in my Aqua-Signal tricolor with a LED bulb designed for that fixture. It had red, green, and white sectors. It was highly visible and saved me a whole lot of power. For me, that was an excellent reason. The incandescent tricolor bulb had been a significant fraction of my power budget.

However, I do agree that a well-sealed LED design is superior. FWIW, I never had bad corrosion at the masthead bulb sockets. The incandescent bi-color at the bow gave me constant corrosion problems. It would be fine when I started a long passage, when at sea I would switch to the tricolor, then aftr a week or two when we approached land again I would switch back to the bicolor at the bow. Half the time it wouldn't work.

Perhaps if I had greased it up when I first installed it the corrosion would have been prevented, but once it started to go bad there was nothing I could reasonably do to maintain it.