Who Needs a Snubber, Anyway?

[exMaggieDrum]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

I do of course strongly belay the chain, taking the load off the windlass. I use a length of SS chain made off to my inner forestay chain plate with a heavy shackle, and a chain hook on the other end. But I do that whether or not I'm using a snubber.

The weakest link in your setup is the SS chain. It is dramatically weaker than regular non-SS chain. If you already have 1/2" chain, you would have to go up several sizes of SS chain to equal the same strength. So either you don't really need 1/2" chain (except for weight as a catenary) or you need to make sure your SS chain length is MUCH larger. I think it would be too large to deal with actually. Also, if your shackle is SS there is the same weak link there.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by exMaggieDrum

The weakest link in your setup is the SS chain. It is dramatically weaker than regular non-SS chain. If you already have 1/2" chain, you would have to go up several sizes of SS chain to equal the same strength. So either you don't really need 1/2" chain (except for weight as a catenary) or you need to make sure your SS chain length is MUCH larger. I think it would be too large to deal with actually. Also, if your shackle is SS there is the same weak link there.

316 SS is somewhat, but not actually "dramatically" weaker than G40 galvanized. I'm using a short length of 16mm 316SS short link chain which has SWL of 2100kg, which is only one size up, but has about the same SWL as the 12mm G40 anchor chain. The shackles and hooks are also up to the job -- they were carefully selected. I use the Wichard HR shackles both for the belaying strop, and for attaching the anchor to the chain.

The 16mm chain strop is actually a bit of overkill, as the anchor chain itself will not be as strong as it is rated as it deteriorates over time, gets regalvanized, etc., and doesn't need to be -- it's itself one size oversized for the boat.

The chain does get in the way, and beats the deck a bit, so I will likely change to dyneema over the winter, for the strop. I will also be able to eliminate one shackle by splicing it to the hook, which will be nice.

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

The chain does get in the way, and beats the deck a bit, so I will likely change to dyneema over the winter, for the strop. I will also be able to eliminate one shackle by splicing it to the hook, which will be nice.

I went to Dyneema as a "cut and run fuse" for the bitter end. The core of it is probably stronger than the chain, but will part in three swipes of a breadknife.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by S/V Alchemy

I went to Dyneema as a "cut and run fuse" for the bitter end. The core of it is probably stronger than the chain, but will part in three swipes of a breadknife.

That's a good idea. I've got fairly light ordinary three-strand rope for that purpose, with no need for dyneema since the pad eye it's attached to is no stronger than the rope.

This is a typical arrangement on these boats, as it is not considered that the bitter end needs to be attached strongly -- just strong enough to keep you from accidentally losing your chain.

However, I think on the next boat I will try to make it that strong, and with a dyneema bit like you've got

Do you keep a knife in the anchor locker?

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

I occasionally anchor without setting our snubbers, but that is the exception. Setting my snubber bridle is so easy, I don't really think about it. It's just part of the anchoring process.

I don't consider my snubbers to be a weak point, and it's not there to take the load off the windlass (I use a well-backed chain hook for that job). In addition to limiting shock loads the snubber silences our roller noise, and the bridle further limits any sailing around at anchor.

Most of the time I probably don't need the snubbers, but when you need them, they are sure good to have out. I think of it like reefing; it's a lot easier to do it early than to wait until things pipe up.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by mikeo16

. . . Most guidelines on snubber length indicate that it should be around 30 feet, but in practicality I have never seen a snubber in use that long. What length snubber are most people using?

I have a variety of snubbers for different conditions -- the lighter ones can be shorter. My primary one is 22mm nylon octoplait, 10 meters long (33').

I never anchor in 10 feet of water (not with almost 8 feet of draft!), but in any case, I don't worry about the snubber being on the bottom.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

We always use our custom "super snubber" because one never knows.

Kenomac, is that reel part of your custom super snubber? Can you share the details?

[roverhi]

If the winds are strong enough to stretch a proper length of chain taut, you are in survival conditions. You better have a really strongly mounted chain stop on deck and not the windlass as a snubber. Several rope snubbers would be extremely nice to have in those conditions. In almost all other conditions a snubber isn't needed. The catenary of the chain acts to ameliorate jerking of the chain.

On our Westsail 32 did have to use a snubber in almost every anchorage. The pitching of the boat would get out of synch with the chain and create a very disturbing thump as the vertical drop of the chain snubbed up on the bowsprit anchor roller. Ran a snubber from the bobstay fitting at the waterline which stopped the thumping, mostly stopped the boat sailing around at anchor and cured the chain rubbing on the bobstay.

[Cotemar]

Snubber's are built into our Anchor Bridal.
It's all part of our anchoring process and happens without even thinking about it.

Some of our best anchorages are in 6 feet of water and we rarely have the anchorage to ourselves.

We always anchor for heavy weather even on a calm day, so a Snubber will always be used.

[Cheechako]

I have dove my anchor in 30+ winds (flat water) and found the chain still had catenary to it. OTOH, I have had chain rode (no snubber) snub up bar tight in winds with some decent wave chop of maybe 3 ft. Every time it snubbed up with a "bang". I managed to get out of that anchorage before the windlass shaft bent somehow. Use a snubber.

[markpierce]

I attach the snubber to the chain just a few feet below the waterline, not near the bottom.



Anchoring in 2+ knot current takes out most all the catenary out of my 3/8" chain.

[sailcrazy]

We always use a 5:1-7:1 scope on our all-chain rode.....and anchoring in the BVI or USVI, with the trade winds that do blow, routinely see that chain tight-rope tight. We use a deck-mounted chain stop to protect the windlass, but always rig a chain hook snubber with the heaviest rubber "stretchy" we could find built in. I've seen that snubber stretch well over 12"-18" on several occasions-I know my windlass is not designed for that kind of load....and I need it to stay working. Can't imagine not using a cleat-secured snubber.

[robert sailor]

Good topic, I've anchored without a snubber but normally I use one. Worst case is strong winds in really shallow water, not hard to stretch the chain straight in these conditions. Good discussion point though.

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

That's a good idea. I've got fairly light ordinary three-strand rope for that purpose, with no need for dyneema since the pad eye it's attached to is no stronger than the rope.

This is a typical arrangement on these boats, as it is not considered that the bitter end needs to be attached strongly -- just strong enough to keep you from accidentally losing your chain.

However, I think on the next boat I will try to make it that strong, and with a dyneema bit like you've got

Do you keep a knife in the anchor locker?

Yes, a cheap (but SS) serrated bread knife. It's on a magnet because it's a steel boat. Away from the compass, I use magnets in various spots for jobs like that. I also keep a length of line and a float handy to tie on the anchor stock or even the chain end if I think there's a chance we might have to leave and return when it's calmer. Obviously, in deep anchorages, this isn't going to be practical, but c'est la vie.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by S/V Alchemy

Yes, a cheap (but SS) serrated bread knife. It's on a magnet because it's a steel boat. Away from the compass, I use magnets in various spots for jobs like that. I also keep a length of line and a float handy to tie on the anchor stock or even the chain end if I think there's a chance we might have to leave and return when it's calmer. Obviously, in deep anchorages, this isn't going to be practical, but c'est la vie.

Sounds like good practice

Some points of which I may imitate. I hadn't thought about the float.