Electric Windlass Problem

[landonshaw]

I have a Lofran Windless and believe the control box is faulty. When I push the up or down all I hear is a clicking sound. On the last sail up the islands, we had a bad leak and the rain flowed over the control box and I believe damaged it. To test this can I bypass the control box and go directly to the windless to see if it will run?
If so my next question is:
We are able to purchase new control boxes in Grenada at Budget, although they are Lofran solenoid control box 12V 3M 500 -1700W, I currently have the Lofran control box 3M 700- 1000 - 1200 W control box. Is the 500 - 1700 able to replace the 700-1000-1200. I think that the numbers are related to the motor that they will control, and since my current model is 700 - 1200, and the replacement goes 500 - 1700, it will work.
Am I correct in this assumption?
Thanks Dave

[svstrider]

Can you take the "control box" apart and see if you can dry it out. Sometimes my windlass would click if the relay was stuck. If you pushed the other button from the one you were pushing, the problem would stop. It was due to worn relay contacts, in my case and might be due to rusty contacts in yours. Even if it is fried it would be a good idea to open the box up and have a good look. In the mean time don't leave power going through it as there could ne a fire risk. Just my 2c FWIW

[atoll]

should work as long as the motor is the same configuration,ie reverse shunt model,dont know the lofran but amps wise the solenoids will be the same or higher spec,1200w=100amp+ 1700w =150 amp+ if motors are same configuration.
some work by switching pos to neg and vice versa

[DeepFrz]

I would take it apart and check out the relays and solenoids and your connections. Be careful though as you have a lot of power coming through that box. When you are working on it make sure you aren't going to damage anything or anyone if it suddenly starts to work.

It would be best to check with Lofrans on whether or not the new box will work. Offhand I would say yes, but I have been wrong once or twice before...

I just looked on the Lofrans site and they don't list the 12 volt 3m 1700w, they do list the one you have. They might not be as easy to dismantle as I thought they might be, but its worth a try.

[boatman61]

Turn off the power at the battery switches then disconnect and clean/buff every connection in the area and the box that got a soaking and when thats done give it all a quick spray of WD40... worked for me.. once

[landonshaw]

I had already cleaned all of the connections and sprayed with an electrical cleaner. no change in the results. I am going to bypass the control box and see if I get the motor to work, then I can determine it is the control box and not the battery.

[atoll]

check the battery with a multi meter.
,should be able to bridge the pos to battery from motor with a screw driver but watch out for sparks.

[nigel1]

Dont know about Lofran, but my windlass displayed the same systems, pressing the control buttons only caused the relay to move (clicking sound), which to me indicated the control box worked.
I stripped down the windlass, removed the motor, and found that the carbon brushes we stuck in their holders, the carbon dust had built up to a level where the springs on the brushes could no longer push the brushes onto the motor.
A quick clean, re-assembled and all was in working order.

[SurferShane]

Originally Posted by boatman61

Turn off the power at the battery switches then disconnect and clean/buff every connection in the area and the box that got a soaking and when thats done give it all a quick spray of WD40... worked for me.. once

Mine is manual and frozen. I did not think it was a problem till I dropped everything over in 20 plus fathoms to get the twist out of the anchor line. It is absolutely amazing how much a basic anchor and a few metres of chain can weigh when it is vertically dropped into the deep. Thank God (no blasphemy intended) I am still half fit and able.

[boatman61]

Another possibly silly suggestion.... check the connections + & - on your batteries are well tight.... I've known these to loosen over time with vibration.... everythings fine till you get a fats heavy draw then..... click... click...

[Bergovoy]

if can disconnect the cable from the windlass then use a volt meter to check the power at that connector when you press the switch/solenoid, to see if you are getting power to the windlass that shold verify if the solenoid and foot control are ok...

you will need power from teh batter to the solenoid to verify if it is working...

[landonshaw]

Tested the windless with a volt meter yesterday and found that I do get current to the motor on the one up / down controls that clicks. But the motor will not turn. I had just replaced this control so will now do the one that does not make a sound.
So, my next step is to pull the motor and see what is happening. It may be as simple as in a prior post my brushes are so dirty they are not in contact. Dave

[svstrider]

Originally Posted by landonshaw

Tested the windless with a volt meter yesterday and found that I do get current to the motor on the one up / down controls that clicks. But the motor will not turn. I had just replaced this control so will now do the one that does not make a sound.
So, my next step is to pull the motor and see what is happening. It may be as simple as in a prior post my brushes are so dirty they are not in contact. Dave

I hope it is the lesser of two evils. I had a similar problem with the winch breaker tripping, then that soon progressed to clicking of the control switch. I should have had a good look as soon as the breakers started playing up.

The problem was that the seal on the winch shaft had let water into the bearings, I think. Whatever, there was rust in there . It took an industrial press and many tons of pressure to get the shaft out. Had to replace the bearings and hopefully a better seal on the shaft.
Very expensive exercise. But heh, it's a boat

[speakeasy]

Originally Posted by landonshaw

Tested the windless with a volt meter yesterday and found that I do get current to the motor on the one up / down controls that clicks. But the motor will not turn. I had just replaced this control so will now do the one that does not make a sound.
So, my next step is to pull the motor and see what is happening. It may be as simple as in a prior post my brushes are so dirty they are not in contact. Dave

I have a lofrans and had the click only when pressing the down switch. Up worked fine. Checked the motor and it ran both ways. Checked the control box and it appeared fine. Turns out the down solenoid was bad, had fried inside. The solenoid uses very small amperage to close contacts allowing full battery power to run windlass motor.

[Bergovoy]

the solenoids i have used in the past on different applications were 'rebuildable'/servicable... you can 'unscrew' the shaft and there is a spring/seal in there, that can be replaced or serviced... I would suggest replacing, unless you are out to see or someplace remote...

the brushes on motors are typcially serviced and replaced periodidcally.. usually a simple project... a larger screw/cap cover that holds the brush/spring assembly in place...