Anchor Chain Grip alternatives?

[Fred Taute]

Originally Posted by bharney

why use a chainhook at all, just tie rope directly to the chain with a rolling hitch

We use a single line and tie it to the chain or rode with a klemheist knot at the center of the line, bringing each end back to a bow cleat. Very simple, never slips. We only had trouble once when the klemheist knot was initially tied a little loose, and we left too much loose rode flopping around in the water. The rode ended up doing some unnatural acts around the knot, and it took a little longer to untie things than normal.

[Wireless1]

With the Klemheist hitch do you find it a pain to pass the lengths of the two lines through the loop back to your cleats? How much line do you typically end up with from the hitch to the cleats?

Also, after the third wrap around the chain what would be the proper size for your loop to be?
Thanks...

[Perfect Ride]

Over a thousand dropped hooks with a Prusik that we tie a soft shackle to. Can loop more loops on the Prusik in rougher conditions. Works great on chain. We are a 44' cat and have used this in 40kt winds and up to 2 meter swell it has all held or Rocna tight. Have tried many chain hooks in prior lives, soft shackle is our go-to.

[Koz1]

Kong Chaing Gripper looks interesting.



https://www.s3i.co.uk/kong-chain-gripper.php

[Fred Taute]

Originally Posted by Wireless1

With the Klemheist hitch do you find it a pain to pass the lengths of the two lines through the loop back to your cleats? How much line do you typically end up with from the hitch to the cleats?

Also, after the third wrap around the chain what would be the proper size for your loop to be?
Thanks...

Passing the lines through the loop takes a minute, not difficult. Our setup is a length of about 30' of 1/2" 8-plait which we have marked in the center, and we wrap around our 3/8" chain, or 5/8" 8-plait rode, depending on how much scope we set. We typically allow about a 1.5" diameter loop at the end, after 3 or 4 wraps. After the lines have passed through, the loop deflects back to about level with the beginning of the wraps.
I find it a simpler knot to manage than the prusik, and it is just as secure - the only difference in functionality is that the prusik holds in both directions.

[Perfect Ride]

Originally Posted by Fred Taute

I find it a simpler knot to manage than the prusik, and it is just as secure - the only difference in functionality is that the prusik holds in both directions.

Using a 9"-12" diameter dyneema loop to make the Prusik offers a simple application to the chain and balanced sides.

Very simple, we often just use a luggage tie with that loop in less requiring times.

Then tie a soft shackle into the remaining loop onto the bridle or snubber.

[Delfin]

Originally Posted by Russ

How is soft shackle applied? Are we attaching it to the chain and a deck fitting. Photo anyone. Russ

I wove a yacht thimble onto the end of the snub line, and attach to the chain with the soft shackle. Can't come off, takes 5 seconds to attach, and the soft shackle is the strongest part of the whole setup.

[kas_1611]

When on the chain I use a Shockles snubber with a stainless shackle through the 8mm chain attached to a 2 leg 16mm bridle to the bow cleats. In the rare event I end up on the 16mm Octoplait spliced to the 8mm then it is a rolling hitch everytime.

I also tie off my chain to the bow cleat with a short length of climbing rope, using a bowline, just to really take the strain off the windlass.

[Nepidae]

Here (https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-chain-hook/) is the link to the Mantus site.
Shows multiple chain sizes.
Seems to cover the bases.
Yes, here (https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-chain-hook-landing/) they have the new chain hook.
I personally like the older 1. Less chance of it slipping off.

[Fred Taute]

Originally Posted by Perfect Ride

Using a 9"-12" diameter dyneema loop to make the Prusik offers a simple application to the chain and balanced sides.

Very simple, we often just use a luggage tie with that loop in less requiring times.

Then tie a soft shackle into the remaining loop onto the bridle or snubber.

Sounds very good, if you could post a pic of the completed setup that would be awesome

[Kiwi.]

Ted's right, with sufficient scope the pull on your bowsprit roller is more horizontal than down. However, as your boat inevitably veers and is at an angle to the wind, waves or tide, the side loading can do a lot of damage. On my sailing yachts I was always happy with a rolling hitch and a single line back over the bow roller. With our change to a 60ft trawler we've gone to a double bridle with a "Victory Hook" that we run back through the two hawse pipes. This seems to hold our bow much steadier than a single line.

[groundtackle]

Originally Posted by Fred Taute

Sounds very good, if you could post a pic of the completed setup that would be awesome

Here’s a pick of the dyneema loop I made. It seems very secure with just the luggage tie.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by groundtackle

Here’s a pick of the dyneema loop I made. It seems very secure with just the luggage tie.

Shouldn't the load be on the bridle with a big loop of unloaded chain? Looks kinda odd to me!

Jim

[Nepidae]

Seems the same to me, load should be off the windlass.

We have a LoFrans Tigres windlass and it specifically states in the instructions, do not use the windlass to pull the boat to the anchor and manage the load.

We have a cleat on the top of the windlass and use that with a snubber and if we use our bridle, made like a Mantus bridle, we use our hawse holes and our Samson posts.

I might also add that when necessary we will drop the hook, big box store on the snubber and Mantus hook on the bridle, underwater to get as much parallel pull as possible.

BTW, we are also a trawler.

[groundtackle]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Shouldn't the load be on the bridle with a big loop of unloaded chain? Looks kinda odd to me!

Jim

Yes of course Jim but I to get the picture I started bring in my chai so I had already retrieved the loop.