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Cheechako · 04-02-2012, 09:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by savoir

By all means use the manufacturer's grease but it will probably be quite expensive. This stuff is cheaper and organic too.

"Lanolene, Wool derived Lanolin, Natural Eco-Responsible Renewable Resource Protectants and Lubricants"

lanolin is one my favorite boat supplies. Best out there for coating ss bolts in masts, threads in anchor shackles etc. I cant imagine using it for lubricant though... very sticky.... I like my winches to spin freely. Have you actualy used this for that purpose?
On winches I eventually just went to light oil and Lubriplate.

Nicholson58 · 04-02-2012, 09:45

Bearings and running parts in winches are massively over sized and nearly corrosion proof. We use an EP type of grease on the bearings and shafts and only a very light coating or oil on the pawls. I find also that selection of a low viscosity lube is important if you will be in cold climates. Some thicker greases get very stiff when cold. If you have access, total removal, clean & re-bed is good for peace of mind. We soaked ours out in a flush tank where I work. Otherwise, soak out the parts in mineral spirits for several hours to get sand and other crud out, dry and thouroughly coat everything to keep water out.

Before & after shows 28 years worth of grime on this Lewmar 65. The residue in the cleaning bucket contained nearly a tablespoon of hard particles. The only corrosion was pits in the aluminum castings. The after photo is dry assembly to check operation before it gets greased. I recorded photos to make sure I correctly reassembled.

**Wotname** · 04-02-2012, 15:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by capt.bobfm

Never use trailer wheel bearing grease. It boggs down with dirt and can cause irreparible damage to delicate internal parts of your winches.

G'day Capt. Bob, can you expand on this please. I am not doubting your experience but mine has been quite different.

Perhaps my winches being old (and relatively small) are different as they are very robust and oversized, operate at low speeds and loads compared to boat trailer wheel bearing. Though I haven't used a lot tailer bearing grease, it has never caused any issue that I could noticed but maybe I have just been lucky

To my mind, tailer wheel bearings operate in a far harsher environment.

I follow a method similar to Nicholson 58, complete disassembly, soak / wash in solvent 'till solvent remains clean, air dry, lube and reassemble.

**s/v Jedi** · 04-02-2012, 15:24

You should not use wheel bearing grease etc. because it hardens.

You need to use a synthetic grease and the best one I have found is "SuperLube" with Teflon.

ciao!
Nick.

Shanaly · 04-02-2012, 15:44

i have just dismantled my maxwell sheet winches which were submerged in salt and sand and left for 2 years. they were greased with a green coloured lithium grease. this appeared to have acted like a conductor and corrosion was appalling. much worse than elsewhere with other grease.

**Wotname** · 04-02-2012, 16:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You should not use wheel bearing grease etc. because it hardens.

Bug^*r, I must have used a cheap low grade wheel bearing grease because it didn't harden as specified or maybe didn't give it enough time to harden up properly

But I agree that it might not be the best practice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You need to use a synthetic grease and the best one I have found is "SuperLube" with Teflon.

ciao!
Nick.

Sometimes I hate the internet, so much conflicting advice.

Here we have Nick who (by previous posts) seems to be a level headed sensible engineering type who deals in facts and has an inquiring mind and is suggesting a synthetic grease with Teflon while some winch manufacturers who also should know, advise against Teflon and also suggest plain old Petroleum Jelly is OK at a push.
HUTTON-ARCO Yacht Winches

I reckon both are right, i.e. it doesn't matter that much.

Best practice - hmm... slip down to the local outboard and buy some waterproof grease, service regularly and damm the torpedos. Heck, my Barlows are 40 years old and still winching

Or to sleep easy, order in the grease from the winch manufacturer at whatever cost and delay.

Or even better, send them to me, I will give them a "by the book service" and a certificate to say the same. Costs a little more but then you will never know that all I did was run a clean rag around the outside, sprayed the inside with WD40 and squirted a little thick left over sunscreen lotion into them

**s/v Jedi** · 04-02-2012, 16:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shanaly

i have just dismantled my maxwell sheet winches which were submerged in salt and sand and left for 2 years. they were greased with a green coloured lithium grease. this appeared to have acted like a conductor and corrosion was appalling. much worse than elsewhere with other grease.

The conducting was probably because of the salt and other contamination that got into the grease. The green color points at bronze corrosion that got in the grease too.

Cleaning works well with a bath of paraffin / kerosine (lamp oil) or if that's not available just diesel oil. Soak the parts and use an old tooth brush. Where the old grease is really hardened you might need a putty knife to get rid of it.

Take a real good look at the pawls. If anything goes wrong there, you can lose fingers or worse. The pawls should not be greased, use a 1-2-3 type light machine oil there.

after assembly, turn the winch by hand very slowly and listen if each pawl is working. If turned slow enough, you can hear each one individually.

ciao!
Nick.

Nicholson58 · 04-02-2012, 16:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shanaly

i have just dismantled my maxwell sheet winches which were submerged in salt and sand and left for 2 years. they were greased with a green coloured lithium grease. this appeared to have acted like a conductor and corrosion was appalling. much worse than elsewhere with other grease.

Green is the corrosion color of brass/copper. The grease is white or clear. There is a lot of dissimilar metal in a winch and under water, anerobic - who knows what hapens. You may be looking for parts if available. A company I do business with RUSH GEAR will make a copy of your wrecked parts. Perhaps it might be worth it. They will do any material you need. Probably phosphor-bronze for gears.

Rush Gears inc. -- gears delrin gears plastic gears bevel gears spiral gears worm worm gears spur gears helical gears phenolic gears stainless steel gears cast iron gears steel gears miter gears metric gears hardened gears heat treat reverse engineer

sailstoo · 04-02-2012, 16:54

A tube of Lewmar winch grease runs $12.63 @ Defender and a tube lasts me about five years...you do the math in terms of $/yr. Unless you are doing this commercially it's not even worth discussing.

Nicholson58 · 04-02-2012, 17:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailstoo

A tube of Lewmar winch grease runs $12.63 @ Defender and a tube lasts me about five years...you do the math in terms of $/yr. Unless you are doing this commercially it's not even worth discussing.

I get it, however, If you are in the middle of no-where, find some grease and know what you are doing. I have 17 winches up through the size 65. I can blow a tube on one round.

**Cotemar** · 04-02-2012, 17:42

Why not just use Winch Grease.

Winch Grease

donradcliffe · 04-02-2012, 17:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You should not use wheel bearing grease etc. because it hardens.

You need to use a synthetic grease and the best one I have found is "SuperLube" with Teflon.

ciao!
Nick.

+1 on Superlube, which is much cheaper than the Lewmar lube if you buy larger quantities, seems to resist saltwater better, and doesn't run when it gets hot.