Profurl P40 replacement bearing kits

[N-Aimless]

I am looking for a source for purchasing the upper and lower bearing replacement kits. This model , Profurl P40, appears to have been circa 1984 - 1987 shortly after being known as the "PROENGIN". Actually both Profurl and Proengin are printed on the drum. Can anyone offer suggestions for acquiring replacement bearing kits?

[AA3JY]

Also looking for bearing replacement kit for the P30 series..interesting there is a how to fix it on line ..just google’ Pro furl bearing replacement’ indicates what seals and bearings are needed.. I believe the P30 and P40 are the same only difference is the drum diameter..

[markvannote]

Hello,

The Profurl "P" series furlers stopped production in 1987. There are no spare parts through Profurl. (us) If any rigger has a collection getting dusty in their building I do not know of it but happy to know anyone if anyone does so we can hand out their number.

I am new to the forum and hope I am following the rules by being here as an employee. I am hoping to be a resource for the forum.

Thanks.
Mark

[Startracker]

I have an old Profurl installation manual, came across this thread because my rigging notes indicate a p40 was used originally. Looking for the same things. Though I am unclear if mine was replaced with a different one, as in the installation book LC 32 is circled. Would you like some pictures?

There are handwritten notes in mine that say:
"Sequence to remove:
1. Drum screws.
2. Set screws.
3. Link plate screws.
Reverse to assemble
May need rat tail to line up drum and set screw holes

To remove lower unit to examine forestay swage, unscrew the two lower bolts as seen in (1) above, leave the two upper bolts in >Unscrew the 3 sets screws as in <(2) on page 7. The lower unit can then be raised or lowered as required.

[Bodon68]

I would love any pics or any other info you could provide

[JC Reefer]

Replacing the bearing is not difficult but it should be done with a proper press and pliers.

I did all the profurl maintenance for a rigging shop in Miami for a few years. I no longer work there but they still have the setup and skills. Call sailing services for any help, as they are great people.

When there, I had some specific heads to push bearings out/in. Circlip Pliers are a must. (Circlip might not be the correct name)

I say you need a press and pliers because it’s really easy to scar the hub when tryin to pull things apart.

The steel parts eventually rust and expand. The salt crust also adds to lock things into place. Getting it all apart is tough. The rest is easy.

You can likely get a kit from sailing services. Doing the work yourself is another question. I do not recommend going at it with a screwdriver and Mallet. There are probably videos on YouTube of people doing this but It’s the best way the scratch the aluminum. Once scratched, it’s easier for water to get into the new bearings, which, once exposed rust quickly.

Profurls assembly’s are pretty much the same when we are talking about the bearings.

1) Remove the drum from the foil and forestay. There is a set screw for the foil and bolt/s for the forestay toggle.

2) remove the steel guards and any other screwed on items. You’ll end up with just the aluminum hub (inside part) and drum (aluminum outside part)

3) remove the first visible clip from the bottom of the drum. This can be tough. Don’t use heat on the rubber parts of the bearings.

4) flip the assembly and PRESS the hub through the drum.

5) remove the first bewring and 2 clips from the hub. Be very careful not the scratch the hub. Use a short bit of pipe and the press the bearing/s off the hub.

6) There is a ball bearing in a pinhole on the side of the drum. This is pushed out from the inside. A long ice pick can be used.

7) all things free, give it all a good clean. The bearings and clips are not reused. Save any stainless spacers

Note that all the replaced items can be sourced from a bearing shop. The first clip that was removed is stainless. It lives in an exposed location and needs to be stainless.

Reassembly:
1) New bearings and old spacer/s can be warmed in an oven. Don’t melt the rubber. 130 degrees helps expand the steel to more easily slide onto the hub.

2) grease the hub. Press on the first warmed bearing. Put on the first 2 clips and any spacers.

3) grease the drum. Press the hub into through the drum.

4) pack the void between the drum and the hub with bearing grease. Don’t be shy.

5) slide on the last bearing. Note that grease will come out of the pin hole on the side of the drum. Secure with the steel clip.

6) softly hammer the new steel ball into the pin hole.

7) reattach the rest of the assembly.

[Bodon68]

Reefer,
Is it necessary to take down entire fuller to remove the lower drum to install new bearings and seals?
Donnie

Originally Posted by JC Reefer

Replacing the bearing is not difficult but it should be done with a proper press and pliers.

I did all the profurl maintenance for a rigging shop in Miami for a few years. I no longer work there but they still have the setup and skills. Call sailing services for any help, as they are great people.

When there, I had some specific heads to push bearings out/in. Circlip Pliers are a must. (Circlip might not be the correct name)

I say you need a press and pliers because it’s really easy to scar the hub when tryin to pull things apart.

The steel parts eventually rust and expand. The salt crust also adds to lock things into place. Getting it all apart is tough. The rest is easy.

You can likely get a kit from sailing services. Doing the work yourself is another question. I do not recommend going at it with a screwdriver and Mallet. There are probably videos on YouTube of people doing this but It’s the best way the scratch the aluminum. Once scratched, it’s easier for water to get into the new bearings, which, once exposed rust quickly.

Profurls assembly’s are pretty much the same when we are talking about the bearings.

1) Remove the drum from the foil and forestay. There is a set screw for the foil and bolt/s for the forestay toggle.

2) remove the steel guards and any other screwed on items. You’ll end up with just the aluminum hub (inside part) and drum (aluminum outside part)

3) remove the first visible clip from the bottom of the drum. This can be tough. Don’t use heat on the rubber parts of the bearings.

4) flip the assembly and PRESS the hub through the drum.

5) remove the first bewring and 2 clips from the hub. Be very careful not the scratch the hub. Use a short bit of pipe and the press the bearing/s off the hub.

6) There is a ball bearing in a pinhole on the side of the drum. This is pushed out from the inside. A long ice pick can be used.

7) all things free, give it all a good clean. The bearings and clips are not reused. Save any stainless spacers

Note that all the replaced items can be sourced from a bearing shop. The first clip that was removed is stainless. It lives in an exposed location and needs to be stainless.

Reassembly:
1) New bearings and old spacer/s can be warmed in an oven. Don’t melt the rubber. 130 degrees helps expand the steel to more easily slide onto the hub.

2) grease the hub. Press on the first warmed bearing. Put on the first 2 clips and any spacers.

3) grease the drum. Press the hub into through the drum.

4) pack the void between the drum and the hub with bearing grease. Don’t be shy.

5) slide on the last bearing. Note that grease will come out of the pin hole on the side of the drum. Secure with the steel clip.

6) softly hammer the new steel ball into the pin hole.

7) reattach the rest of the assembly.

[Bodon68]

Is it necessary to take down entire fuller to replace bearing and seals?

Donnie

[Kamaloha]

No, you can tie a halyard around the foil to keep it on the stay, then remove the drum set screws, turnbuckle and fittlngs, tap the drum off the foil. It will drop off the bottom. Put the turnbuckle back together while you are off rebuilding the drum.

All parts (seals, bearings and snap rings) are standard metric sizes easily obtained from bearing companies. You do not need to purchase bearing kits from Wichard. I just rebuilt my P40 with a total of $30 in parts and about $20 in new tools (beefy snap ring pliers).