Need help identifying toggle forks and turnbuckles

[Susurros]

Hi all, I need some help to identify the brand of toggle forks and turnbuckles used in our wire rigging. Recently we had to replace a toggle fork and while we were able to modify a Ronstan fork to fit, it was not easy and is something I would like to avoid if possible in future.


There are no identifying markings on them except for a '10' or '12' stamped to indicate the size, and one has an anchor stamped on it near the bottom of the swage. (It's in an awkward location so I couldn't get a photo of it.)


Photos are here: https://imgur.com/a/OEsrtSO



The previous owner had the rigging installed by a professional somewhere in Central America, he believes. Doesn't have any other details.


Thanks in advance

[Bowdrie]

I can't identify the exact brand, but using jam nuts tightened down against the body are to be avoided.
They appear to be the kind that were commonly used on Tiawan built boats from the "70s>'80s
Yes, the 10 and 12 are metric sizes

[Susurros]

Thanks Bowdrie. I will take that into account when we replace the broken jam nuts - hopefully they won't break again if not over-tightened.


The boat was homebuilt in Australia in the 80s/90s but the current rigging is from a bit later - so it's anybody's guess where the components came from

[MicHughV]

That turnbuckle looks like a "C.Sherman Johnson" tubular turnbuckle, available here in the USA, not sure if they are available in Aussieland, but it's a fairly standard tubular turnbuckle design, so it might be sold under another name.

Be aware that the threads on the upper and lower jaws are not the same, one will be left hand thread and the other right hand thread, the threads are also typically a fine thread, so chose your locking bolt accordingly.

Looks like the boat is a steely...on my steely I squished some 5200 sealant between the lower fork and chain plate tang to keep the seawater/salt air from corroding that tang. Worked quite well.

[MicHughV]

locking "nut"...my bad

[Susurros]

I've had a look at the C. Sherman Johnson catalog and it doesn't quite look like one of theirs - the shape of the locking nut is different and ours lack the sailboat stamp.

The issue is not so much one of getting the exact same brand but of getting a toggle of the same dimensions, and as you alluded to, the turnbuckle thread. Now that we know what thread direction we need (worked that one out with the first one we replaced), I think we can specify the thread direction when we order replacements from Ronstan.


The bigger problem - or at least frustration - is that the jaw of Ronstan's toggles is shorter and narrower than our existing ones. Trying to fit them over the chainplate tang is quite infuriating. There is a layer of rubber on each side, inside the toggle - presumably to prevent friction wearing through the paint and causing rust. Clearly it has not done much good so perhaps it's time to try 5200 instead, as MicHughV said. Anyway, the thickness of the tang, combined with paint and rubber, is too wide for a Ronstan toggle. On the one we replaced we ended up removing the rubber.


All the toggles themselves appear to be in good condition for the moment. Right now it's a couple of the locking nuts that need replaced, but we would also like to have a spare toggle + turnbuckle assembly on board that we know will fit.


Of course, the rust has to be dealt with too, so we'll have to go around the boat disconnecting one toggle at a time to de-rust and repaint the chainplate tang.

[MicHughV]

Not sure what to suggest to you here. I'm familiar with stores here in the USA, but not sure what you have available "down under"....I''d suggest searching the internet.

From time to time, I've had good success in finding oddball parts at ship chandeliers vs. the marine boating stores. eg, parts for shrimp boats, ships, etc

[Susurros]

We have less selection here than in the US but most things are available by international post if you're willing to pay a little extra for shipping and wait longer. I'll keep searching online and keep an eye out at chandlers.

MicHughV, how did you apply the 5200? Did you let it dry before putting the toggle on?

[MicHughV]

Applying the 5200 is a messy business.
I put surgical gloves on first.
I first put a dollop of 5200 in the eye of the chain plate tang and then all around it, then placed the toggle over the tang and inserted the pin, so there was 5200 everywhere. Then the shroud/stay was tensioned, after which I squirted 5200 underneath the toggle/over the tang and between the sides of the toggle and chainplate.
I smoothed it out all out with my finger, so it looked reasonably "professional". I had also taped off the base of the tang, so there wouldn't be a mess everywhere.
My big concern was where the toggle pin rubbed on the inside of the hole on the chainplate tang. While the tang was painted, I knew this is where the "rubbing" would occur as the pin would wear thru' the paint.

It worked well. After two weeks of bashing to weather, I did note some weeping of rust on some of the chainplates, but it was marginal and easily cleaned off.

My boat had a zinc paint as the first layer of paint, followed by several coats of primer and finish paint and this held up surprisingly well.

I took one turnbuckle off at a later time for some reason, and the only paint damage was where the toggle pin had rubbed on the inside of the chain hole, but the original zinc paint was still mostly there.

5200 takes several days to dry, so I didn't go sailing for a few weeks until after this project had dried.

Overall, it worked well and in general, I had little problems with rust on my boat.