New Guy! Needs Help with Toilet (possibly to save marriage!)

[peghall]

I't's hard to tell which hose is which from that angle....the only thing I'm sure of is the white hose going into the back of the bowl is coming from the pump...there has to be a another one coming INTO the pump. It's time to look at owners manual. I sent you the link to it earlier...here 'tis again Jabsco 37010 owners manual You'll see that same hose in the photo of the toilet on the first page. Go to the exploded drawing on page 3. Part #12 is the discharge fitting/port. Part #6 is the hose that connects the pump to the bowl...it's attached to part #28 at one end, to part #4 at the other end. If you look carefully at #28 you'll see a nipple on the other side of it...that's where the inlet line connects to the pump. The #27 flexible impeller is the intake impeller. #16 is the discharge impeller.

[peghall]

Manos, I THINK HopCar was right: your toilet is wired backwards. Try switching them and see what happens.

[Manos1955]

Originally Posted by peghall

Manos, I THINK HopCar was right: your toilet is wired backwards. Try switching them and see what happens.

Thank you Peghall again
However if it was the wiring the outgoing would noy work , right ? Well the outgoing works perfect

[savoir]

Then it might be the impeller.

[HopCar]

"Thank you Peghall again
However if it was the wiring the outgoing would noy work , right ? Well the outgoing works perfect "

Actually the outgoing would probably work. Maybe not as well but it would move some stuff. It's a different kind of pump and will probably work in both directions.

[CourageousME]

So, just for shits if I do need to get at the impeller- are the pumps always located in the same spot? Or...just gotta dig. I wish I could go out and start troubleshooting now but it's cold out there and a long row to the mooring!


Sent from someplace

[savoir]

If you think that the inlet impeller is the culprit then you will first have to close the inlet through hull valve. Remove both hoses from the pump at the base of the rear of the head. That is the black one and the smaller white one. Remove the pump and motor which seem to be held in place by 4 bolts. They could be hard to reach.

You should be able to see the impeller and slide it out of the pump with some needle nose pliers.

[CourageousME]

Thx. Great Intel to educate myself. I also have been reading posts via the search for hours. What a wealth of smahts as we say in Maine.


Sent from someplace

[peghall]

Originally Posted by Manos1955

Thank you Peghall again
However if it was the wiring the outgoing would noy work , right ? Well the outgoing works perfect

You don't have anything to lose by trying it!

[savoir]

Careful. Removing the pump/motor assembly could be a really ugly job. There is so little space.

[CourageousME]

Originally Posted by savoir

Careful. Removing the pump/motor assembly could be a really ugly job. There is so little space.

As in leave it to the pros or I'm gonna get "crap" all over me lol


Sent from someplace

[savoir]

That could still happen. You might have to remove the bowl first to make room.

[Ida_Lewis]

Loving my Nature's Head composting toilet which I installed at the beginning of the season. Only problem were gnats that were instantly eradicated with moth crystals from Walmart, about a tablespoonful added to the coconut coir mix.

Extremely straightforward operation and it really has no smell. Very happy, would rather spend my time contorting myself around other boat systems! Thinking about replacing the holding tank and converting it to water instead.

[Seighlor]

I did a Nature's Head replacement about a year ago. Works great. No more stinky hoses. No seacocks to worry about. No holding tank. Here in Florida I've have had occasional problems with small insect infestations that have been resolved with diatomaceous earth and flying insect spray. The odorless feature still amazes me.

[Comogene]

Amazing how many suggestions you can receive whn you toss out a question!
If you look at the exploded diagram, you will see that the system uses a motor to bring in raw water with a rubber impeller and send that water to the bowl. A second impeller (metal) that they call a chopper then macerates the waste and sends it on its way. Since both impellers are on the same shaft, raw water continues to enter the system so long as the motor is engaged.

All too often with this unit, the motor seizes and that is the expensive part to replace. If your motor is functioning as you say it is, then your repair costs are reduced considerably.

There are three hoses. The largest one (1") runs from the base out, which is your discharge line. A second hose runs from the pump housing up to the bowl. The third hose is attached to the pump directly on the opposite side from the hose that runs up to the bowl. This is your intake hose.

Trace the intake hose to its through hull fitting and verify that the seacock is open. If it is not, you have burned out the rubber impeller and will need to replace it. If it is open, then you have a blockage. Go back to the head and remove the intake hose from the pump housing. Blow air into the hose as the blockage may be in the hose or in the through-hull. If no air flows, then remove the hose from the through hull and first blow air back to the head. If no air, replace the hose. If nor air when you blow air into the through hull, the strainer is clogged. Your need to go swimming or wait until you haul out. The alternative is to careen the boat if you are adventurous.

Once you have verified the flow of raw water, you still need to replace that impeller. Close the seacock; then empty standing water in the head; disconnect the hose from the pump to the bowl; remove the four ss 1/4x20 bolts that hold the bowl to the base and lift it off. Ther is a gasket and it probably reusable. Should take less than 10 minutes.

Now, with access to the base, have some disinfectant and towels handy. Remove the discharge hose and plug it. Remove the intake hose. Cut the positive and negative wires after you shut the circuit brake. There are four screws that hold the pump to the base. After you remove them, wiggle the pump housing with the motor until it comes loose.

Inside the plastic collar, the chopper/macerator screws off the shaft and then work your way back to what is left of the rubber impeller. Don't remove the impeller housing and you won't have to replace the seal between it and the motor.

The service kit has the new impeller and seals.

The whole disassebly and reassembly should take around an hour, depending upon your constitution.

Oh, if you reverse the positive and negative wires, the motor and pump will run backwards. While the rubber impeller will still work, the centrifigal force for the discharge will not properly function.