Un installing folding propeller

[RodrigoDC]

Hello,

Any idea how to remove this propeller (please see attached pictures)?

I have removed the blades, but not sure how to proceed from here.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Happy Thanksgiving for those of you in the US.
Rodrigo

[fstbttms]

That is a Martec folder. Back the prop nut out a bit, insert a 1/2" socket extension (probably a 2" long one will do) into the nut and then mount your puller over the end of the socket extension. SOP from there on out.

[dfelsent]

Originally Posted by fstbttms

That is a Martec folder. Back the prop nut out a bit, insert a 1/2" socket extension (probably a 2" long one will do) into the nut and then mount your puller over the end of the socket extension. SOP from there on out.

In addition to fstbttms response remove the cotter pin through the body and recessed nut.
Use a 3/8 or 1/2” (as appropriate) socket extension with a breaker bar or ratchet handle to loosen the nut.

You can use a large adjustable wrench on the body to hold it in place while you on screw the nut. Those flat sides help.

Then go for the puller.

If you get the prop reconditioned use monel cotter pins. The pivots are monel too as I recall.

[Fortytwo]

Looks like there’s no bearing in that strut…

[dfelsent]

Originally Posted by Fortytwo

Looks like there’s no bearing in that strut…

Good eye!

[nuku34]

In Kiwi-speak, we'd say that prop was totally "munted" i.e. **_cked

[RodrigoDC]

Thanks to everyone. Yes this is a Martec MKIII two blade folding prop for a 1" shaft. Now I know!

So I need to turn the nut counterclockwise.

Yes, there is no bearing. I need the prop out to reinstall a chewed up bearing. While I'm at it, I'll rebuild the prop. The blades are way too loose, too much play.

nuku34, why do you say the prop is munted, mate? Do you not believe it cannot be rebuilt? My mate at the machine shop thinks otherwise.

dfelsent, would a monel cotter pin be better than stainless steel? The pivot pin is made of bronce, just like the blades.

Thanks again to all. I'm always learning!

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by RodrigoDC

...would a monel cotter pin be better than stainless steel? The pivot pin is made of bronce, just like the blades.

You must use monel cotter pins only. Failure to do so can (will) result in loss of the prop.

[Jim Cate]

nuku34, why do you say the prop is munted, mate? Do you not believe it cannot be rebuilt? My mate at the machine shop thinks otherwise.

It may just be the photo, but it looks like the "ears" of the hub are severely splayed. That would make the usual rebuild (where the blades and hub are rebored oversize and a new oversize pin is mated to them) rather more complicated.

Could be done, but dunno about the expense relative to replacement.

Jim

[RodrigoDC]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

It may just be the photo, but it looks like the "ears" of the hub are severely splayed. That would make the usual rebuild (where the blades and hub are rebored oversize and a new oversize pin is mated to them) rather more complicated.

Could be done, but dunno about the expense relative to replacement.

Jim

You are correct, Jim, the ears are rather splayed and the pivot pin was bent and curved. This created a lot of noise and parking stern first was always a challenge.

In my case, my buddy at the machine shop will not charge me, otherwise a used replacement may have been in order.

BTW, the prop finally came out of the shaft, thanks to your advice.

Now, I will clean and sand the shaft, install the cutlass bearing, and wait for the rebuild prop. Oh, and while I'm at it, I'll re-center the shaft, or rather re-mount the engine a few millimeters to re-enter the shaft.

Fun winter project :-)

[fstbttms]

Did I understand you to say that you're going to reinstall the old cutless bearing?

[RodrigoDC]

Originally Posted by fstbttms

Did I understand you to say that you're going to reinstall the old cutless bearing?

Ha, ha, that would be something. The old one basically disintegrated. I wish I had a picture of it.

No, I have a new bearing that I will install. Just need to sand the shaft first.

[fstbttms]

What are you going to do about the bent pivot pin?

[RodrigoDC]

Originally Posted by fstbttms

What are you going to do about the bent pivot pin?

It will need to be rebuilt, I assume with a, slightly bigger diameter. I'll let my mate decide that.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by RodrigoDC

You are correct, Jim, the ears are rather splayed and the pivot pin was bent and curved. This created a lot of noise and parking stern first was always a challenge.

In my case, my buddy at the machine shop will not charge me, otherwise a used replacement may have been in order.

BTW, the prop finally came out of the shaft, thanks to your advice.

Now, I will clean and sand the shaft, install the cutlass bearing, and wait for the rebuild prop. Oh, and while I'm at it, I'll re-center the shaft, or rather re-mount the engine a few millimeters to re-enter the shaft.

Fun winter project :-)

I hope that your pal has some plan to eliminate the splay in the ears. I think the side support they provide to the blades is important.

I had a similar Martec prop years ago. It was quite efficient in forward, abysmal in reverse and often would fail to open properly because of the lack of gearing between the blades. Had it rebuilt once in NZ with fair results, but it only had some wear on the ears, not the splaying. Hope your rebuild is equally successful.

If you decide to replace it, I've found my Flex O Fold to be far better in reverse, some better in forward and WAY better in terms of longevity... just a thought!
(Different boat, of course, and it replaced a Gori which was never a good design IMO, so hardly a great comparison).

Jim