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Old 10-10-2019, 07:59   #16
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Re: Nature's head clearance question

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If you have space to lift a regular toilet seat to the vertical position, you have room to remove the collection bins ( my C-head is bolted to the floor of the head). The C-head uses a regular 3 gallon bucket for the solids and a 1 gallon water jug for the liquids. We manage to dump the bins every other week with 2 aboard. Not too bad.

What drew me to it was the simplicity and non-proprietary nature of its parts. Its basically just a box around 2 off the shelf containers.
Thanks pcmm. So maybe a C-head is a better choice for Rusty123.

Just for comparison, I empty my main bin every four weeks on average. I’ve gone as long as six when needed. The urine bucket gets emptied every two to three days. Two adults, full time.
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Old 10-10-2019, 08:41   #17
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Re: Nature's head clearance question

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Thanks pcmm. So maybe a C-head is a better choice for Rusty123.
Yes, the C-head looks like it might be better suited for my application.
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Old 10-10-2019, 09:29   #18
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Re: Nature's head clearance question

I had a Nature's head on our Whitby 42 with plenty of room. But we downsized to a Pearson 34 and it wouldn't fit, so I went with the Air Head that fit the space better. Had to build a small shelf for it to rest on , but I don't have to worry about the clearance behind when lifting the lid.
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Old 10-10-2019, 09:39   #19
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Re: Nature's head clearance question

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My existing marine toilet (Groco HF) needs another rebuild, and the hoses are due too. Thinking about replacing the whole thing with a composting head.

For various reasons, the Nature's head design appeals to me. However, space is tight, and the hinge action of Nature's Head (as opposed to the Airhead and others) requires a couple inches clearance between it and the back wall, which might be a deal breaker.

So here's my question: For those of you with a Nature's Head, how much of a hassle would it be to install it up against the back wall, and then detach from the mounting brackets and slide forward to enable the tilt action each time the jug needs emptying?
gonna cost you another five minutes work
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Old 10-10-2019, 09:57   #20
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Re: Nature's head clearance question

C-head doesn't need setback from back wall. Might be easiest and cheapest solution.
The idea of dissasemblying the head just to change the P bottle is a non starter.
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Old 10-10-2019, 17:13   #21
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Re: Nature's head clearance question

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I have plenty of room on the sides, but the front to back room in my head is more limiting. In order to conserve as much of that dimension as possible for knees, I’d like to put the toilet right up against the back wall. But in the case of the Nature’s head, doing so would prevent removal of the pee jug unless the entire toilet is detached and slid forward a few inches. Just wondering if this would be a major hassle.
The bin mounting brackets fit into a shallow molded recess in the bin which will prevent sliding the toilet forward. It would have to be lifted above the brackets then moved far enough to not be sitting on top of the brackets in a standard installation (approximately 8" to 12").

Clearance to the back wall of about 2" is needed to raise the hinged top enough to remove the jug. I can measure this more exactly if needed.

I'm pretty certain that the following slight modification would allow sliding the toilet forward. Make shims to fill the depression in the molding. Make the shims slightly thicker than the depth of the depression and glue the shims in place (G5 works well on polyethylene). Install the mounting brackets on the floor so that they just touch the shims. This will space the shims slightly wider apart than the width of the bin and should allow the bin to slide forward as much as needed. Slightly longer hold-downs might be needed and are readily available from places like Lee Valley.
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Old 12-10-2019, 20:14   #22
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Re: Nature's head clearance question

I got a AirHead easy to empty the bottle and I have the back to the wall with no problems. Very happy so far but it has only been a few week.
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Old 12-10-2019, 22:06   #23
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Re: Nature's head clearance question

Hmm, I'm tempted to remove the hinges on mine now as well, thats a great idea
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Old 13-10-2019, 01:01   #24
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Re: Nature's head clearance question

Another option, particularly if you haven't removed the holding tank, is to plumb a small pump from the urine tank to the holding tank.

Then the only time you have to open is to empty the solids and removing the base from the floor isn't onerous once a month or so.

We had a natures head and liked it but if we have to do it again, I would probably go with the C-head.
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Old 13-10-2019, 07:45   #25
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Re: Nature's head clearance question

Comparing the major brands on line, here are the front to back “footprint” dimensions:

N- head: 19” + 1.5” to tilt top
C-head: 18”
A-head (marine seat): 17.5”
A-head (household seat): 19”

In my case, I have a 16 inch ledge on which to place the unit, so all of them will hang over a bit. I’m not a fan of the small marine-sized seats, which takes the smallest A-head out of the running. Of those remaining, the C-head will hang over the least (though the differences are not spectacular).
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Old Yesterday, 13:52   #26
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Re: Nature's head clearance question

I'm a Nature's Head head. True, it's expensive (at least it was to me: close to $900) but I don't have the manual/tech skill to build my own. The hinge factor - how much space does it use - is a consideration. My head is small - so is my boat, 33 ft - but the hinge works okay. I installed the head myself and I had one infestation of gnats that I solved. I'd do it again, no prob.
Here's a link to my experience:

First round: https://deltahand.blogspot.com/2019/...-headache.html

Continued: https://deltahand.blogspot.com/2019/...continued.html

Truth in advertising: I'm female, 64, live on houseboat weekends only right now, and do most of all that needs to be done myself. (I don't fix outboard motors.)
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