Nature's head clearance question

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by pcmm

If you have space to lift a regular toilet seat to the vertical position, you have room to remove the collection bins ( my C-head is bolted to the floor of the head). The C-head uses a regular 3 gallon bucket for the solids and a 1 gallon water jug for the liquids. We manage to dump the bins every other week with 2 aboard. Not too bad.

What drew me to it was the simplicity and non-proprietary nature of its parts. Its basically just a box around 2 off the shelf containers.

Thanks pcmm. So maybe a C-head is a better choice for Rusty123.

Just for comparison, I empty my main bin every four weeks on average. I’ve gone as long as six when needed. The urine bucket gets emptied every two to three days. Two adults, full time.

[Rusty123]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

Thanks pcmm. So maybe a C-head is a better choice for Rusty123.

Yes, the C-head looks like it might be better suited for my application.

[RSB333]

I had a Nature's head on our Whitby 42 with plenty of room. But we downsized to a Pearson 34 and it wouldn't fit, so I went with the Air Head that fit the space better. Had to build a small shelf for it to rest on , but I don't have to worry about the clearance behind when lifting the lid.
RSB333

[powsmias]

Originally Posted by Rusty123

My existing marine toilet (Groco HF) needs another rebuild, and the hoses are due too. Thinking about replacing the whole thing with a composting head.

For various reasons, the Nature's head design appeals to me. However, space is tight, and the hinge action of Nature's Head (as opposed to the Airhead and others) requires a couple inches clearance between it and the back wall, which might be a deal breaker.

So here's my question: For those of you with a Nature's Head, how much of a hassle would it be to install it up against the back wall, and then detach from the mounting brackets and slide forward to enable the tilt action each time the jug needs emptying?

gonna cost you another five minutes work

[roverhi]

C-head doesn't need setback from back wall. Might be easiest and cheapest solution.
The idea of dissasemblying the head just to change the P bottle is a non starter.

[GeorgeW]

Originally Posted by Rusty123

I have plenty of room on the sides, but the front to back room in my head is more limiting. In order to conserve as much of that dimension as possible for knees, I’d like to put the toilet right up against the back wall. But in the case of the Nature’s head, doing so would prevent removal of the pee jug unless the entire toilet is detached and slid forward a few inches. Just wondering if this would be a major hassle.

The bin mounting brackets fit into a shallow molded recess in the bin which will prevent sliding the toilet forward. It would have to be lifted above the brackets then moved far enough to not be sitting on top of the brackets in a standard installation (approximately 8" to 12").

Clearance to the back wall of about 2" is needed to raise the hinged top enough to remove the jug. I can measure this more exactly if needed.

I'm pretty certain that the following slight modification would allow sliding the toilet forward. Make shims to fill the depression in the molding. Make the shims slightly thicker than the depth of the depression and glue the shims in place (G5 works well on polyethylene). Install the mounting brackets on the floor so that they just touch the shims. This will space the shims slightly wider apart than the width of the bin and should allow the bin to slide forward as much as needed. Slightly longer hold-downs might be needed and are readily available from places like Lee Valley.

[NorthCoastJoe]

I got a AirHead easy to empty the bottle and I have the back to the wall with no problems. Very happy so far but it has only been a few week.

[alctel]

Hmm, I'm tempted to remove the hinges on mine now as well, thats a great idea

[valhalla360]

Another option, particularly if you haven't removed the holding tank, is to plumb a small pump from the urine tank to the holding tank.

Then the only time you have to open is to empty the solids and removing the base from the floor isn't onerous once a month or so.

We had a natures head and liked it but if we have to do it again, I would probably go with the C-head.

[Rusty123]

Comparing the major brands on line, here are the front to back “footprint” dimensions:

N- head: 19” + 1.5” to tilt top
C-head: 18”
A-head (marine seat): 17.5”
A-head (household seat): 19”

In my case, I have a 16 inch ledge on which to place the unit, so all of them will hang over a bit. I’m not a fan of the small marine-sized seats, which takes the smallest A-head out of the running. Of those remaining, the C-head will hang over the least (though the differences are not spectacular).

[susgal]

I'm a Nature's Head head. True, it's expensive (at least it was to me: close to $900) but I don't have the manual/tech skill to build my own. The hinge factor - how much space does it use - is a consideration. My head is small - so is my boat, 33 ft - but the hinge works okay. I installed the head myself and I had one infestation of gnats that I solved. I'd do it again, no prob.
Here's a link to my experience:

First round: https://deltahand.blogspot.com/2019/...-headache.html

Continued: https://deltahand.blogspot.com/2019/...continued.html

Truth in advertising: I'm female, 64, live on houseboat weekends only right now, and do most of all that needs to be done myself. (I don't fix outboard motors.)

[sesmith]

As others mentioned already, the c-head can be butted right up against a wall (unless you are installing a vent on the rear and have a right angle vent fitting to have to space out for).

As a side note, I'm currently using the C-head from one of our boats in our cabin out in the woods, and found that venting is unnecessary (at least so far). We will eventually order another one for the cabin.

I generally dump the main container every 7-10 days. On the boat, it just goes into another 5 gal pail that shares the same vent as the C-head. C-head sells a vent adapter for a 5 gal pail so you can do this (it used to come with the new C-head...not sure if it still does). We found we can go about a month using the extra pail for storage.

[sailorxyz]

Originally Posted by pcmm

Just get C-head and be done with it. Much simpler design Works better imho

I can second that... or make your own, which is what I'm doing for my new boat. Had a C-head in the old one, zero complaints.

[Grey Goat]

I have an islander 28 with a very small head compartment. None of the commercial composter heads fit into the space so I am in the process of making my own to tuck into the space as efficiently as possible. This now provides sufficient knee room to actually close the door and turn around. I used good quality 1/2 " epoxy sealed & painted (Brightside) ply cleated to the bulkheads and cabinets, a swing up top, a Home Depot bucket, a DIY urine diverter that I made from epoxy and glass, fan and ducting to a vent on deck, a small fuel jerry with a custom fitted pipe nipple in a fiberglass disk in the lid to accept the urine hose. I am reusing the toilet seat and lid from the Jabasco head. Its all very low tech construction. Still in progress so I cannot vouch for function yet. The benefit is getting rid of a stinky holding tank and improved ergonomics in a very small head compartment.

[SuW]

Like RSB333 we built a step on the outside floor of the head compartment to allow the Nature's Head user to put their feet on the floor and support the front of the device.
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...cture30995.jpg