Wood Materials Inside?

[andrei_ca]

Hi,

Anybody could tell me what you think they're using

here

for cabinets?

I've been researching sailboat wood that is durable: ipe came out as a good choice. Not sure yet how much I need as I'm still researching boats.

Anyway, if you guys could suggest any other great wood alternatives that are, maybe, cheaper and very durable, I'm all ears.

Andrei

[Wotname]

Plywood (quality plywood)

[Benz]

Without looking through the entire video, all the large areas were plywood.

As for Ipe--I would use it for an exterior application where hardness and longevity were a must. I wouldn't want to use it all over, since it's pretty hard to machine, and tough on tools. Also, I'll bet it's too oily to take coatings easily.
For the interior of a boat, which ideally stays mostly dry, you can use any wood that pleases your eye. I have doug fir and redwood in mine, mostly because they were cheap. I say use whatever is locally available to give your boat a local flavor.
Ben
zartmancruising dot com

[Suijin]

Veneered plywood. What you get it veneered with is up to you. If it's good quality plywood and the veneer is well sealed you should be fine with any sort of wood if you take care of it.

A good number of boat manufacturers switched from teak (and a lot of that was teak veneered plywood) to cherry when the price of teak got out of hand. Those interiors have stood up fine.

I would focus on the supplier of the plywood and the cost. If it's good quality plywood and it fits your budget, it's going to be fine.

I heard a story not so long ago about newer Valiant where the cherry interior plywood suddenly started turning very dark. Turns out that the batch of plywood it was built with was bad in some way. Valiant replaced the whole interior under warranty. So choose your supplier carefully.

[robwilk37]

im using western red cedar where i want to see the wood and quality ply for the painted areas. in addition to the problems already mentioned with ipe its also damn heavy. not a good choice for interior joinery. the only ipe on my boat is the rubrail...

[pcmm]

Though most of my interior is Teak ( with a mahogany stain for some reason!) but I can't justify the cost of buying Teak so most of my new work is in Cherry. Which machines nicely and is fairly durable, has a more interesting grain than teak and more obtainable where I am!

[Scot McPherson]

cedar is light and strong, but it MUST be kept dry. It will rot quickly if it gets wet.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Scot McPherson

cedar is light and strong, but it MUST be kept dry. It will rot quickly if it gets wet.

No not true at all. Just the opposite. There are split cedar fence posts up here in the PNW that were there when I was a kid, almost 60 years ago.... in a cold wet damp ground.
The oil and perfume out of some cedar is so strong it will make your eyes water cutting it.

[zeehag]

mine is all teak interior and i am using perota/ipe/huanacaxtle wood for exterior uses..nav lite boards, pinrails and pins, dodger framing, mizzenboom, may use it for main boom..davit trims,many uses on my ketch for it.
this mexican hardwood is of the perota tree and is hardwood and oily, poisonous and, in mexico, requires a certified carpenter to make items.
perota is canopy tree of mexico and grows very fast. it is resistent to rot and insects, so makes sense to use it for boating uses. price inmexoco is dirt cheep. i paid 1200 pesos when peso was 16 to one usd. not too shabby. boom is absolutely gorgeous.
brazil also grows this tree. i think it has a different name there,but the wood is still ipe.

btw--not all cedar is good wood. mexican cedar is stringy andnot usable for planks or boards in boats or on them.no strength.
thai cedar is so bug resistent and rot resistent thatmy 40 yr old masts only found issues when patricia cane made my mizzenmast appear to be a twist o flexstraw in 215 mph steady winds.(wind generator on mast head was issue, not the mast itself) oops that hurt. it has outlasted all sitka spruce masts i have encountered to date.

[andrei_ca]

Suijin: What does "taking care of it" entail broadly speaking?

I'll get insluation on the walls, and that will lead to condensation in cold weather. Should that matter for the wood if I'm installing dehumidifiers?

I would think yes. So that's why I was thinking that I should use something like ipe, resistant - but yes I read it's heavy and hard to machine it. So probably sailing to Mexico to get some wood work done, wouldn't be a bad idea.

Zeehang: How much wood did you get for 1200 pesos amigo? Can you find me the price of that wood per cubic foot or something - to compare with other here. I could use some time in Mexico: good surf, nice weather, fresh produce - the life.

Andrei

[zeehag]

"Zeehang: How much wood did you get for 1200 pesos amigo? Can you find me the price of that wood per cubic foot or something - to compare with other here. I could use some time in Mexico: good surf, nice weather, fresh produce - the life.

Andrei"
dear andrei, please leave out the N is zeehag. thankyou. and i am female,so i am amigA.

i had a 14.5 ft mizzenboom made from scratch of perota for 1200 usd. he copied exactly my old one. it was made in colimilla. hollow box construction--is no heavier than is the thai cedar the original one was constructed of in 1976.
now as perota is becoming becoming rare and is protected as canopy tree of mexico.
the only ones allowed to use it these days are mexican licensed/certified carpenters. must wear mask and act as if it is poison, as it is that. each carpenter has his own prices. i was in tropical southwest coast.

ok i tried to load a pic of boom, but my wifi sucks so bad no one at all can use it and we all compllaining loudly and long--until we get that fixed--no pix oops sorry.

[leftbrainstuff]

Sapele or african mahogany. Much better to work and leaves a much better finish than plywood.

There are some nice marine plywood options that are also nicer to work than home depot grade.


Hard to get slow cured timber these days. This is where plywood shines.

Edensaw in Port Townsend Washington are my fave.

[robwilk37]

afromosia and lyptus also come to mind. lovely to work with, somewhat light and relatively inexpensive...

[Copacabana]

Ipê isn't a very good choice for interior work for the reasons mentioned above (difficult to work, very heavy, doesn't take a finish well, hard to sand smooth etc.). You might find some cheap(ish) tropical woods in your area like Brazilian cherry or Freijó (the absolute best wood for interiors and structure when you want to keep it light and strong). You don't mention where you are, but you should be able to find a local wood that looks nice. See what cabinetmakers are using in your area. Another issue is matching wood. If you are adding something to your interior you will probably have to choose a wood that matches, regardless of the price. If it's an all-new interior, then any wood is fine, within reason. Tropical hardwoods are heavy and the pounds/kilos can add up pretty quickly, so be careful.

[zeehag]

Originally Posted by Copacabana

Ipê isn't a very good choice for interior work for the reasons mentioned above (difficult to work, very heavy, doesn't take a finish well, hard to sand smooth etc.). You might find some cheap(ish) tropical woods in your area like Brazilian cherry or Freijó (the absolute best wood for interiors and structure when you want to keep it light and strong). You don't mention where you are, but you should be able to find a local wood that looks nice. See what cabinetmakers are using in your area. Another issue is matching wood. If you are adding something to your interior you will probably have to choose a wood that matches, regardless of the price. If it's an all-new interior, then any wood is fine, within reason. Tropical hardwoods are heavy and the pounds/kilos can add up pretty quickly, so be careful.

i found my hollow box construction 14.5 ft mizzen boom, made of mexican ipe(perota/huanacaxtle) is same weight that my thai cedar original was.
you might wish to heft the woods you look at while shopping-- not all heavy hard woods are that heavy.
i was advised this would not be a reasonable wood for the job due to weight issues(sorry the man was a yottie, not a wood person)--which i have stated were negated with my lifting of it. i also lifted my old boom to compare. same same. no significant difference.
funny how marine construction makes a hollow item from heavy hard woods. is magical and awesome. even the mast for 1903 eleanor is not solid, but made in such a way as to have a hollow center.
interior is usually a veneer over ply, so the hard andheavy issue is moot.
if you are creating a support structure, you want something bug and rot resistent. nothing beats thai cedar , ipe, and teak.
as for sanding mexican ipe--is not as difficult as one makes it out to being.my nav light boards are smooth and gorgeous. i allowed them to go red, which is perota natural color when aging in air. is a gorgeous wood. mine is oiled. i donot varnish.noneed to do that time consuming misadventure that rarely looks any better than the natural wood, with oil handrubbed into it.
,ake sure you use mask and eye protection when sanding or working with any tropical hardwood--when they are deemed insect and rot resistent, they are often poisonous to us, as is teak and perota/ipe/huanacaxtle. .. funny thing about that.