Windlass conversion maual to electric

[AnchorageGuy]

Sea Trek has a bowsprit that currently has a Seatiger 555 manual windlass that is sitting on top of the aft end of the sprit. I would like to replace it with an electric windlass but the footprint must be wide enough to run the deck bolts down the side of the sprit instead of through it. Anyone out there using something that works well with this same type of set up? The unit needs to be completely self contained.

[Pblais]

Chuck,

Could you post a picture to help with the request.It might help. For an electric windlass you'll need a straight drop to the chain locker off the aft end of the gypsy. Will you want 10 mm (3/8) or 8 mm (5/16) chain? Using a SS plate you could extend the attachment as wide as you might want. I think you'll find most want a 4 bolt pattern that is close together.

[delmarrey]

I second the adapter plate or box.

[AnchorageGuy]

Will try to post a photo as soon as the freezing rain, sleet and hail with 25 to 30 knot winds subside here in south Texas. Had not thought about an adapter plate but I suppose if it is strong enough that just might solve the problem. The discharge point on the 555 is just below the windlass now so that will not be a problem and I am sure any manufacturer can provide the gypsy for my BBB 3/8 chain. Currently the bolt pattern on the 555 is wide enough to ride just alongside the width of the sprit so I was hoping to find an electric model with the same bolt pattern. Thought I had a pdf file on the 555 but can't find it right now.

[GordMay]

SeaTiger 555 Manual Windlass ~ Expanded View & Parts List:
http://www.slspares.co.uk/Seatiger.pdf

[Pblais]

Chuck,

The only bad news isn't all that bad. You'll need to spend a bit more money for 3/8 chain. That would also include a 10mm in a European Windlass. I have a Vetus Alex III 10 mm on my CSY 33 and it's a serious weapon. Other boat has a free fall SL that is much slower. I would want if I had my choices:

1. Electric Up and down and it should be fast!

2. Controls on the fore deck and the helm or remote. I had both deck switches and a wired remote and a toggle at the helm on the CSY and there were times I used them all.

3. A manual option so you can ratchet the chain back up by hand. I've done it twice. I don't know of any that don't but I would consider how easy it is to be a factor. None will be as good as the Sea Tiger in manual mode.

You'll want to maximize the free fall. The last boat didn't have as much room as I would have liked and the chain would cone up and then the gypsy loses it's bite. Then you go below and knock the cone down and continue. After enough times of this I just stopped half way up and went below and knocked it down and the restarted. Seemed to be less frustration.

My guess is the hole patterns will be close but not exact. You may be better off to patch the holes and make new ones if you have something solid to attach to. You really do want a very very solid attachment point. You may want to extend outboard above or below the deck to make a really solid attachment. I would avoid a "box" type arrangement as they won't be very strong.

Each unit will tell you how perpendicular the chain needs to be coming in but it must exit straight down as the weight of the chain in free fall keeps the chain on and in the gypsy. If not the chain jumps up and the gypsy slips. It makes noise and the instinct to reach out and grab it can be a dangerous move.

[AnchorageGuy]

Thanks guys for the input. The Vetus sounds like a good starting place and just might have the features I am looking for. Will definitely check it out. I will still post a photo as soon as I get a chance.