Happiness is a Warm Spool Gun

[Andrew Troup]

Steve

Was the router baseplate running inside a large female template when you did those little retaining hooks, or did you shape them by other means and then guide the router using the pilot bearing on the cutter, ... or .... ?

[Panope]

Originally Posted by Andrew Troup

Steve

Was the router baseplate running inside a large female template when you did those little retaining hooks, or did you shape them by other means and then guide the router using the pilot bearing on the cutter, ... or .... ?

Shape drawn directly on material surface. Inside radius's (hooks) drilled prior to cutting outline. Stationary disk sander used to "trim" to the lines. And yes, router guided by pilot bearing. A large "nub" of material was retained on the base of the part to allow holding in vice during routing - then cut off.

I rarely use the "large female template" method for anything unless I need to make a large production run of the same part.

Steve

[Panope]

Wheel Slot

Here is a time consuming but interesting 3-D shaping project. Rough cut-out done with a worm drive Skill Saw. Finished with a rasp and sandpaper. Wood is Western Red Cedar. Will be Varnished.

I had been scratching my head for a couple years trying to figure out how to trim this slot. The answer did not come to me until I started cutting material. Typical.

Steve

[dandrews]

Very nice work!

[Panope]

Pilot house interior carpentry.

I have been averaging about 3 sticks installed per day. Pretty slow. Wish I could make things happen fast like Atoll.

Pic #1. Ceiling and trim around windows is cedar for lightness (weight). Backrest (unpainted part) below windows is Oak for durability. Backrest (white part) is 1/4" plywood. Seat is 1/2" plywood. Sea rails/handrails of oak will surround black Formica "dashboards". All screws will be plugged.

Pic #2. Port side windows. Vertical trim pieces fastened with Gorilla Glue.

Pic #3. These trim pieces are removable because wires for solar panel and GPS antenna are behind.

Pic #4. Starboard side. Bilge pump handle visible in seat storage area. Floor of storage area is Panope's original aluminum after deck - complete with non-skid!.

Steve

[Panope]

Dashboard Fiddle/Handrails.

The fiddles (oak) are nice and wide for strength. They will see lots of hand grabbing as they are at the perfect height when crew are moving down below.

Pic #1. Overview.

Pic #2. Port Side.

Pic #3. Low spot prevents finger pinching when closing window. Also provides a place to chase out those last crumbs when wiping up spills.

Pic #4. Corner detail.

Pic #5. Laminated edge covers end grain. 1/8 inch thick strips were boiled in water to make bends easier.

Pic #6. Corner ready for plugs, finish sanding and varnish.

I have done a lot of household carpentry/cabinetry. Now that I have dipped my toes into the boat joinery thing I can confidently say that boat interior work is a VERY slow process.

Every joint is a goofy curve or angle. I should have bought one of those cheap 12 inch bench top disk sanders and placed it on the after deck to eliminate about a thousand trips up and down the ladder to get to my shop sander.

Steve

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by Panope

I have done a lot of household carpentry/cabinetry. Now that I have dipped my toes into the boat joinery thing I can confidently say that boat interior work is a VERY slow process.

Every joint is a goofy curve or angle. I should have bought one of those cheap 12 inch bench top disk sanders and placed it on the after deck to eliminate about a thousand trips up and down the ladder to get to my shop sander.

Steve

Superb carpentry Steve.
I am in awe of your skills working with both aluminium and timber!

[Panope]

Thank you Seaworthy and dandrews for the accolades. I do appreciate the encouragement.

Here are some tasks that did not turn out so hot.

Pic #1. Ugly welds on handrail.

Pic #2. Seeping fuel tank. I did pressurize to 2 p.s.i. and checked for leaks with soap and still ended up with a seep . Someday I will cut in an inspection port and seal the welds with Pro-Seal fuel tank sealant.

Pic #3. Typical-metal boat-with a brush-without masking-in a hurry-i'll fix it later- painting ugliness.

Pic #4. Pilot house lid warp. 1/8 inch aluminum plate is too thin for me to weld nicely. This hollow will likely be filled with something (epoxy and microballoons ?) prior to applying non-skid.

Steve

[Panope]

More wood work.

This wood provides a decorative cover for structural Knee braces of 3/16" aluminum.

Pic #1. T&G Cedar on face. Oak edge cap bent into place. Fastened with glue only.

Pic #2. Top of edge cap. Curvature too sharp for bending in this area.

Pic #3. Sides of cap. Gluing.

Pic #4, 5. Ready for Varnish.

Steve

[Panope]

Weather Helm.

Panope was (as a schooner) always very tolerant of an imbalanced sail configuration. I was surprised when last year's sea trial revealed that Panope sails with a bit too much weather helm.

I had designed her new sloop sail plan to have the center of effort in the same spot (fore and aft) as her old schooner rig. Unfortunately, I did not consider the following factors that I believe are causing the problem:

1 - The center of effort of the new sail plan is higher than previous. When heeled over, this puts the sail's effort further outboard and therefore induces a greater turning tendency to windward.

2 - I designed the jib to be sheeted outboard of the shrouds. This created an excessive sheeting angle and therefore reduced the power of the jib.

3 - The old bowsprit, pulpit, anchor and associated rigging was removed and therefore reduced forward windage that formerly produced a turning tendency away from the weather.

4 - I added a pilot house that increased aft windage that now produces a turning tendency to windward.

5 - I cut away a portion of the keel to accommodate a much larger diameter propeller. This caused the center of lateral resistance to move forward and therfore increased a tendency to turn to windward.

6 - The portion of the keel that I removed was just ahead of the rudder. This, I believe has reduced the rudder's effectiveness.

7 - A propeller of much larger diameter and blade area is causing a larger area of the rudder to operate in turbulent flow and further reducing the rudder's effectiveness.

My gut feeling is that the changes that I have made below the waterline are as much a part of the problem as the changes made above the waterline.

Here are my remedies to correct the problem:

1 - I fabricated A new chain plate at the bow that moves the fore-stay about 1 foot further forward. This moves the C/E of the jib forward and therefore will produce a tuning tendency away from the wind.

2 - As a result of moving the fore stay, I can now sheet the jib "inside" the shrouds to new sheet anchors located on the cabin house top (this, I believe will produce the greatest effect of all my remedies).

3 - I added area to the rudder in the place where the portion of the keel was removed. This should add a bit of power to the rudder and also provide a bit of "balance" to the ole barn door.

4 - I added area to the top of the rudder to close the gap between the rudder and hull. Should add a bit of power to the rudder.

5- I closed a large gap between the keel (what is left of it) and the rudder.

I have zero training in naval architecture and no racing background. This whole project is seat of the pants endeavor. If anyone as something to add, by all means chime in.

Looking forward to the next splash to see if this solves the problem.

Steve

[CPseudonym]

Steve, you are a very skilled and multi talented craftsman. You have my respect sir

[Panope]

Galley sink drain.

Glug Glug Glug..................Glug Glug Glug.................Glug..............Glug Glug Glug.............................................. ............Glug Glug Glug..........................Glug Glug Glug Glug.........................Glug Glug....................Glug...................... .......That is the sound one heard aboard Panope during last summer's sea trial. Very annoying while sleeping. Totally unacceptable.

Let me back up a bit. My father originally installed a standard plastic thru hull fitting just above the theoretical water line. In the loaded condition, this thru hull ended up being just below the waterline and if damaged would sink the boat. Part of my refit included raising the thru hull opening a couple of inches and welding in a threaded tube to make the boat safer (idiot proof).

Panope's hull sides are not vertical. When my father mounted the plastic thru hull it automatically had a slight downward angle that trapped any air present when water would cover the opening.

When I welded in the new tube, I positioned it horizontally to maintain adequate sink draining. Unfortunately, this created the most perfectly annoying glugging sound as trapped air bubbles escaped as the boat gently rolled at anchor.

I cannot raise the through hull any higher and would not do it even if I could.

I have had it with this thru hull.

Pic #1 - Horizontal welded pipe bastard thru - hull.

Pic #2 - Thru hull welded shut.

Pic #3 - New 6 gallon sink drain jug.

Problem solved.

Steve

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by Panope

I have had it with this thru hull.

Pic #1 - Horizontal welded pipe bastard thru - hull.

Pic #2 - Thru hull welded shut.

Pic #3 - New 6 gallon sink drain jug.

Problem solved.

Steve

I love simple solutions! Particularly when they involve less holes in the hull.

We have become so accustomed to a certain level of function in houses, that I think we automatically and often unnecessarily want boats to come equipped the same way.
Just don't wait until that container is full before emptying .

[Panope]

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

I love simple solutions! Particularly when they involve less holes in the hull.

We have become so accustomed to a certain level of function in houses, that I think we automatically and often unnecessarily want boats to come equipped the same way.
Just don't wait until that container is full before emptying .

Yes, I guess I will have to get used to the sound of water trickling into the jug. And when it gets quiet, that will be the time to empty it (fingers crossed).

I just finished reading a great book (Scudding) that my friend, George Maynard recently published about his 5 year circumnavigation with is family of 5 in an exact replica of Josh Slocum's Spray. He built "Scud" himself and was ready to set sail within 2 years of laying her keel.

Scud was very simple: No engine. No electrics. No head. And no galley sink thru hull.

I figure if it worked for them on their fantastic voyage it will be just fine for my occasional mucking about.

Steve

[Panope]

......continuing with the sink jug installation.

Pic #1. Old thru hull pipe left in place for future masochists. Filled with foam and caped.

Pic #2. Old thru hull covered. New under counter shelving.

Pic #3,4. Jug before securing board is slid underneath.

Pic #5. Jug after securing board is slid underneath. Mouth of jug captured by sink drain fitting. New Galley sink filter and single lever tank selector valve. Old Whale pump (35 years) disassembled cleaned and reassembled with new rubber bits. What a fantastic pump design!

Pic #6. Pin keeps securing board form sliding out.

Steve