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Russian007 · 21-01-2017, 20:01

I have an 80s era Westerbeke 27hp in a sailboat. it's actually a marinized Mitsubishi KE150. Wiithin the last 8 months I've installed a new impeller, fresh water pump and thermostat. I also flushed the cooling system. The temp gauge indicates 220F just at high idle in the slip. I have a temp gauge gun with laser pointer and when I point it at the aluminum ( i think it's aluminium) housing where the temp gauge sender unit and thermostat is located, the laser gun also reads at about 220F. The rest of the engine, according to the laser gun reads around 150-190F depending on location.
I'm afraid to use the boat under power now, I don't want to blow the engine. Does this sound like a problem? What might I have overlooked?

jamhass · 22-01-2017, 06:37

Check out the Ford Lehman overheating thread.

sony2000 · 22-01-2017, 09:19

Since you have a laser gun temp gauge, remove the thermostat for a while.
The next thermostat should be the coldest possible.

markwesti · 22-01-2017, 09:36

I take it the engine is fresh water cooled . ? When you say flush , could you please explain that . Is your exhaust water steaming ? Have you checked the raw water thru hull intake for any (partial) blockage . I found some kind of sea creature in mine once he was letting in just a little water , just enough to make me look else where . Also said thru hull has in the past salter up like a rock , but again would pass some water . This stuff I have never used but I think I will sometime . Good luck ! http://www.apexengineeringproducts.c...FU5cfgodlQsDEA

Russian007 · 22-01-2017, 18:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by markwesti

I take it the engine is fresh water cooled . ? When you say flush , could you please explain that . Is your exhaust water steaming ? Have you checked the raw water thru hull intake for any (partial) blockage . I found some kind of sea creature in mine once he was letting in just a little water , just enough to make me look else where . Also said thru hull has in the past salter up like a rock , but again would pass some water . This stuff I have never used but I think I will sometime . Good luck ! http://www.apexengineeringproducts.c...FU5cfgodlQsDEA

Yes, fresh water cooled. I flushed the engine meaning I used some of that engine flush liquid available at auto parts stores. Pour it into the coolant and run the engine til warm and drain. Refill with distilled water. No steam coming from exhaust water discharge.

markwesti · 22-01-2017, 19:25

OK then , one more question have you ever had the heat exchanger off the engine and boiled out ? If not here is what I would do take it off and either take it to a radiator shop for the boil out or use the Rydlyme . The key is take it off , once it is off check the entire raw water circuit re place all the hoses , only the ones with a wire inside are to be used . Haha this is what I did once and it turned out to be the raw water in take had the partial block , stinkin' lill' crab .
PS 007 when you fill back up the block use anti freeze .

Russian007 · 22-01-2017, 20:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by markwesti

OK then , one more question have you ever had the heat exchanger off the engine and boiled out ? If not here is what I would do take it off and either take it to a radiator shop for the boil out or use the Rydlyme . The key is take it off , once it is off check the entire raw water circuit re place all the hoses , only the ones with a wire inside are to be used . Haha this is what I did once and it turned out to be the raw water in take had the partial block , stinkin' lill' crab .
PS 007 when you fill back up the block use anti freeze .

Okay I will try and get it off. Antifreeze even for California?

DeepFrz · 22-01-2017, 20:06

Antifreeze mixture transfers heat better than water alone. When you have your heat exchanger off, check the injection elbow to make sure it isn't blocked. Might as well check your anti siphon valve while you are at it.

Edit:
Antifreeze also acts as a corrosion inhibitor. Make sure you get the kind recommended for your engine.

Russian007 · 22-01-2017, 21:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Antifreeze mixture transfers heat better than water alone. When you have your heat exchanger off, check the injection elbow to make sure it isn't blocked. Might as well check your anti siphon valve while you are at it.

Edit:
Antifreeze also acts as a corrosion inhibitor. Make sure you get the kind recommended for your engine.

The Westerbeke manual actually says to use clean clear water.

pesarsten · 22-01-2017, 21:46

I have used Zerex antifreez with the corrosion inhibitors I think it's G05 or something like that. Strange that you say your block is not a Kubota. My 1981 w27 is ( I believe ) a Kubota block, are you sure?

Lastly, before you start tearing everything apart, make sure that ALL OF THE AIR IS BLED out of the engine cooling system. Start with the bleeder by the t stat.

Good luck,

Russian007 · 22-01-2017, 21:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by pesarsten

I have used Zerex antifreez with the corrosion inhibitors I think it's G05 or something like that. Strange that you say your block is not a Kubota. My 1981 w27 is ( I believe ) a Kubota block, are you sure?

Lastly, before you start tearing everything apart, make sure that ALL OF THE AIR IS BLED out of the engine cooling system. Start with the bleeder by the t stat.

Good luck,

Yes, positive it's a KE150 Mitsubishi. I get parts usually from tractor shops which charge about 25% what westerbeke charges. It might be the W33 though and not the W27. Highly recommend this engine btw.
I'm wondering about air in the system, there's a bleeder on Port side of the block, maybe there are more. I will look.

Mutt · 23-01-2017, 09:44

I have a w33 engine which is also Mitsubishi ke150. There is a bleed valve on top of the exhaust manifold cooling jacket. Make sure there is no air in there . Make sure there are no impeller bits in the heat exchanger and that all the tubes are clear. Have new end cap gaskets ready, you will need them. Make sure there is no restriction or air pocket in the hoses that go to your hot water tank. Hot water tank should be lower than your engine. Make sure the rad cap is not leaking and that the hose to the overflow tank is not leaking. On my engine the temperature gauge reads 200 to 210 deg. , but the infrared gun on the thermostat cap shows only 180 deg. Nowhere else is the engine hotter than 180 deg.

Valmika · 23-01-2017, 10:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russian007

Okay I will try and get it off. Antifreeze even for California?

Yes I would use a 50/50 mix. Where are you in Ca? If anywhere near Marina Del Rey to Long Beach I could give yo a hand with the HE. Are you getting good flow out the exhaust? Are you loosing coolant/water? And yes. Bleeding the air out is VERY Important. (and easy)

captstu · 23-01-2017, 12:36

Heat exchangers are one of several weak spots on a W'beke. Did you pull the end caps and back flush the exchanger? If not, you may want to remove it and have it washed/cleaned by a radiator shop.