How To Free Coolant Screw-in Lugs In Ford 2701 Lees Dorset Crank Case?

[Shanaly]

Hello - on the lh side of the crank case half way along towards the bottom are two 1/2 inch threaded lugs with allen key sockets. these access the engine coolant, and would feed a heat exchanger for domestic hot water.

However, they are rusted in, and i have just stripped the socket in one. Do I drill them out, or is there a magic spray to loosen them?

Also, why are there two when I only really need one? - Generic diagrams show one outlet lug, and the return circuit T -'d into the rube piping at the top of the conversion.

Failing a solution to the rusting problem, can anyone suggest alternative hot points to tap to supply the domestic HW heat exchanger please?:roll eyes:

[model 10]

Originally Posted by Shanaly

Hello - on the lh side of the crank case half way along towards the bottom are two 1/2 inch threaded lugs with allen key sockets. these access the engine coolant, and would feed a heat exchanger for domestic hot water.

However, they are rusted in, and i have just stripped the socket in one. Do I drill them out, or is there a magic spray to loosen them?

Also, why are there two when I only really need one? - Generic diagrams show one outlet lug, and the return circuit T -'d into the rube piping at the top of the conversion.

Failing a solution to the rusting problem, can anyone suggest alternative hot points to tap to supply the domestic HW heat exchanger please?:roll eyes:

Just an opinion here, but I don't think there are any magic sprays, Some help but for the most part they are snake oils. Stripped Allen sockets make a great plact to start a new hole to use an easy out of some sort.
It seems like you would want an outlet from the cooling system and a return to the cooling system from about where it came from to keep everything working like normal. Most cooling systems are from the bottom of the engine up so your heat exchanger would have little effect on coolant temp.

[boden36]

Depends on what tools and access you have. I would drill it out until it had about 2 or 3 mm wall thickness. Then I would heat a track across it to red heat briefly with an oxy torch (or an arc welder if the hole is big enough). It should then shrink and come out easily with an ezyout.
Regards,

Richard