Grounding Copper Bar for Perkins 4-108 Starter?

[swami maximus]

I am looking for a grounding bar to replace a busted one on a starter for a perkins 4-108. at the bend it broke and now the only way to staret it is to have someone press it down while kicking the engine over.
links leads or thoughts?

cheers,
swami

[mesquaukee]

The starter may be a Delco Remy 28MT check out Delco Remy

[swami maximus]

thats not the one. i'll give it a look and see if i can find a name plate on it.
cheers,
sm

[mesquaukee]

Is the connection labeled in the sketch below of the 10MT?

[swami maximus]

thats the function, but it is a single piece long (maybe 3.5 inches x 1/4 inch wide) flat bar that abruptly turns 90* into the starter.

[mesquaukee]

Take it to a starter/alternator shop.
Or
If you feel up to it you can fabricate a new piece if you are stuck somewhere. You will have to open the case to reach the internal connection. And find the material.

[swami maximus]

I have attached a few picks of what i am talking about.
cheers!
sm

[mesquaukee]

See PM

[forsailbyowner]

The Mt27 By delco its a discontinued starter that has been replaced by the mt28. By googling I found a place that sells rebuild kits and mentions that they also have solenoids and drives. Try googling delco starter MT27 service kit

[magicmoments]

It appears what you are referring to is the lead from the solenoid to the field coils. It is not ground. Although it may be a discontinued starter I'm pretty sure any starter / alternator shop that has a farm/industrial customer base could either silver solder it back together or replace it. Don't mention the words boat or marine, as there is a pricing rule about 3 x normal cost.
If you are handy, remove the back plate of the starter, you will probably find that it is already soldered on the inside to the leads from the field coils, and the solder joint has failed.

Just my $0.02 worth.

[mesquaukee]

Semantics.
I assume that by field coils you mean the windings on the armature (rotor). Starter motors typically do not have field coils. They use permanent magnets, makes them fun to pull apart and reassemble.

[swami maximus]

the copper bar actually broke at the 90* bend. now i just have to pull the bugger out and take it into a shop. im so/so handy and would normally attempt it but time does not permit these days.

[magicmoments]

The part # you probably need is WAIglobal # 76-1251 any starter shop should have or be able to order this part. 76-1251-1 has a nut attached for easy mounting. This is the lead from the solenoid to the field coil in your photo. Good luck to you.

[swami maximus]

thanks so far for everyones contributions. if i got said part is the installation easy? like getting the assembly dismounted and then undo a few screws/bolts open it up and slip on a new one, attach a nut and replace? are there guides out there with diagrams and step by steps? i might undertake the task if it is not too big of a job (to booster my mechanical confidence). in a perfect world, i'd chuck the thing overboard and attach a mooring ball to it in a protected bay and call it home. but my boat is big and docks are tight.

[magicmoments]

You won't really know untill you get it off and remove the rear cover. Some are soldered and some have a machine screw and nut. If soldered you will need professional carbon arc soldering equipment. Either way if you can find a local shop to do a quick fix and look for any other parts that are worn. You should have a minor repair. This would be a good time to replace the solenoid and drive gear and check the front and rear bushings and the brushes and brush springs.

Remember when you re-install the unit that you only tighten the battery cable nut on the solenoid to 1/2 turn before it breaks! Some fellas will tighten it till it breaks and then loosen it 1/4 turn...this is tooo tight and will cost you another solenoid. :-)
Just some shop humor.