How to speed up a Snowgoose?

[atoll]

Originally Posted by weavis

ok.. I have been meaning to ask someone about this. The method he used, is it intrinsically as strong with the join as opposed to being one single molded piece? Especially as its more or less in the middle of the vessel?

if the molding is tapered in side and out to join the existing glass,reinforced with stringers,added structure and done with epoxy I cant see there being adhesion problems.

though you would want to do it with a vessel that is fairly heavily laid up to start with so the overall laminate schedule of the hull is strong enough to take the added flex of a longer hull.

[atoll]

Originally Posted by Snowgoose35

Doen right a join can be as strong as a single piece moulding - after all most moulds use overlapping layers of grp rather than a continuous piece so its made in many "sections" anyway...

However, despite this I shall not be doing this to my Snowgoose - though a sensible way to lengthen the stern (which with full height rudders would be more difficult) would add to waterline length and increase aft buoyancy and basically make it in to a pre-elite 37 ...

the place to do it on the prout would be just aft of the engine transom,and across the aft platform,which would interfere the least with the existing hull,then add longer backstays and a bigger mainsail

[Snowgoose35]

Alex, a very sensible plan, add length and aft buoyancy and a bigger sail to boot; I'll just call John and see if he has a chainsaw i can borrow...

[thinwater]

It's often said that boats are sold by the pound; epoxy, glass, aluminum, stainless, and the labor to put it all together.

For the sake of argument, let's say you can buy a Gemini Legacy for $275,000/9,400 pounds, or about $30/pound. A performance boat like the Stiletto 27--if one could be bought new-- would be about $80,000/1,250 pounds, or about $65/pound. Gunboats run about $80/pound. Ouch. Used cars, on the other hand, run perhaps $2-$4/pound; though they don't float so well, they do fly to windward.

What would we pay for a lighter boat with better performance, strength being the same? Would we pay $40/pound? Most of us bought used--I paid about $13/pound--but I'd spend a little for speed, maybe $20/pound. By that logic, we would pay ~ $20-30/pound for every bit we could save on our current boat, whether from taking out the trash. Hauling less fuel when practical, or pumping the holding tank more often. We would evaluate every project, looking for places to swap composites for steel and Spectra for stainless steel cable.

A post on the topic:
Sail Delmarva: Wieght

I look at everything as a $25/pound cost, from the stuff in the lockers to new projects. I think such a figure helps keep things in meaningfull perspective, a simple test.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by weavis

ok.. I have been meaning to ask someone about this. The method he used, is it intrinsically as strong with the join as opposed to being one single molded piece? Especially as its more or less in the middle of the vessel?

Yup, a long taper inside and out with bonding inside and out. I've hit a few docks with this; the pilings moved.

Sail Delmarva: Extended Transoms: The Process

In my case it was primarily to create a better boarding platform, but there were incremental improvements in speed and ride. I doubt it would be worth the work on a Snowgoose, as the geometry is more complex.

I doubt bulbs do anything; they work on ships at a single speed with virtually no pitching. At speeds that matter on a sailboat, the bows are up and down a ton and I bet the bulbs are actually counter productive, just a gimmick.

[FSMike]

I seem to recall reading that Lock Crowther put bulbs on some of the original Catanas with the thought that the bulbs would reduce pitching, thereby smoothing out the ride and increasing the speed somewhat.

[wongai64]

A


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