Bedding For Dodger Mounts

[EmeraldCoastSailor]

I am installing four mounts for a new dodger and I was curious if 5200 was the proper bedding compound to use to seal the hardware to the deck. 5200 is tough stuff and I don't ever plan on the mounts coming off the boat, even if the dodger might for repairs, racing, or a storm. But is it the right stuff to use? There are two screws per mount and I am using screws as opposed to through bolts with backing plates as my liner situation prevents a more secure installation. Advice and experience of the others is appreciated.

[Ex-Calif]

Normaly I would say do not use 5200 for this application as I consider 5200 "permanent" and this may need to come off some day.

However if you are seriously considering screws instead of through bolts I would go with 5200. I would also figure out if I can add one or two screws to each of the dodger feet.

To make a screw work in this application you have to eliminate flexing in the joint - flexing will allow the screw to loosen then you have a mess. 5200 is your best shot at this.

Screws of appropriate diameter and 5200 would be my second choice after trying to figure out how to do proper through bolts. Another advantage of the screws would be that you don't actually penetrate the boat so water intrusion is not an issue.

FWIW my brother attached his solar mounts to the top of his pilothouse with no screws! Just 5200. All good after 2 years. 5200 is killer stuff if you don't want stuff coming apart.

[witzgall]

Screws will eventually come loose, and leak. You should cut an access hole in the liner, bolt the fittings on with backing plates, and then cover the access hole with whatever looks good.

Then, 4200 or Butyl Rubber would be best.

Chris

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by witzgall

Screws will eventually come loose, and leak. You should cut an access hole in the liner, bolt the fittings on with backing plates, and then cover the access hole with whatever looks good...

Such as:
Finishing Dome or Pry-Out Plugs
➥ Bushings, Grommets, HEYCaps & Plugs | Heyco

[Kalinowski]

Perhaps a polished stainless backing plate with rounded edges and stainless acorn nuts could make an attractive interior mounting for through bolting. I've used SS acorn nuts for interior fasteners when I refinished all my ports. Looks good!

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by Kalinowski

Perhaps a polished stainless backing plate with rounded edges and stainless acorn nuts could make an attractive interior mounting for through bolting. I've used SS acorn nuts for interior fasteners when I refinished all my ports. Looks good!

Bang your bald head on acorn nuts for a while and then come back - LOL.

We used to pull the button off our ball caps when soaring because in turbulence you would hit the canopy and dent your head. Not too good for the canopy either.

[Kalinowski]

I would imagine you would hit many more dangerous objects if you rolled the boat while down below.

[JPA Cate]

I'm with witzgall on this one.

I think the fittings need to be both sealed and through bolted. And the access hole in the liner can be covered with a varnished teak plate.

5200 is really strong glue, but the surface area of the feet of the dodger fittings is generally about 1/2" by 1-1/2" and you've only two of them. When a big wave hits the dodger, well, IMO, that's a lot to ask of glue.

Ann

[roygee]

use butyl rubber sealant it will stick to greased owl **** and will never harden. No structual strength , but will provide a permanet seal of semi flexible objects

[belizesailor]

5200 is the most misused adhesive in the industry. It is mostly an adhesive (which you don't need for this application) and not a very good sealant because it cures relatively hard.

Butyl Tape as suggested is great stuff, but still best to seal the edge of the hardware. For this a product like 3M 4000UV is good stuff. Its also good for bedding hardware directly (sans Butyl tape...can sometimes be hard to find good quality butyl tape).

[Cheechako]

5200 is fine, but don't rely on it for anything other than as a sealant... it provides little adhering strength on metal really. It's the universal sealant for me. Do it once and it will never leak is my motto. Other opinions vary.

It would be very nice if the bimini is thru bolted. If you really cant... then drill and tap with a coarse thread metal tap to match your machine screws. Get the canvas made so it zips off fairly easily... if you end up in a blow you can remove it... or design it so it folds up readily with a cover.
As mentioned above, screws without nuts may eventually loosen up.... especially on a bimini which moves a lot in the wind.

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

5200 is the most misused adhesive in the industry. It is mostly an adhesive (which you don't need for this application) and not a very good sealant because it cures relatively hard.

Originally Posted by Cheechako

5200 is fine, but don't rely on it for anything other than as a sealant... it provides little adhering strength on metal really. It's the universal sealant for me. Do it once and it will never leak is my motto. Other opinions vary.

Gotta love CF...

[belizesailor]

Well...there is a "play nice" rule but we don't have to agree! ;-)

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Well...there is a "play nice" rule but we don't have to agree! ;-)

Right on!

[rognvald]

Scott,
I'm doing the same project as you and am going to use stainless steel "Keenserts" to mount the dodger supports. Drill the appropriately sized hole, saturate with epoxy, then recoat with thickened epoxy and insert the waxed keensert and bolt into the hole. After the epoxy kicks, remove your bolt and mount your support. It will be virtually monocoque with the cabin top and avoids cutting access holes in your interior. I also am using that method for two 9" stainless rails that have virtually no access to the underneath.
Hope it helps. Good luck and good sailing.
Brand portfolio of the KVT Group | KVT-Fastening Austriakeenserts/